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When you grow up in the far north in Canada, if you're at all curious about the world and the people in it, you can't wait to get out. As soon as you're able, you head out to the big city, for work or school or whatever you can get. It isn't such a different story from kids growing up in the boonies anywhere, where it's Montana or Gangwon-do in Korea, western New South Wales or the Cyclades.

I grew up, for the years that counted at least, in Fort Saint James, British Columbia. During those years -- the early 70's to the early 80's -- it was the End of The Road. Vanderhoof was the asshole of the world and we were forty miles up it, we said, recycling that old standby. The paved highway ended in the Fort, and to go further north meant logging roads and endless washboard and pothole gravel, dusty in summer, solid ice in winter, and slicker than snot the rest of the time. There were a couple of reservations further up there, and a few scattered fishing lodges and mines and logging camps. Wilderness, though, for the most part. Endless dense forest carpetting mountains, nap worn smooth in spots by crystal-clear cold lakes and rivers. Germanson Landing. Takla Landing. Leo Creek. Deese Lake. I'd like to say I hunted bear in these places wearing nothing but a breechclout and bowie knife, but with parents who were grappling with living on the frontier after moving from southern Ontario and a little shellshocked by family tragedy, the names of these tiny, isolated places were almost as exotic to me as Tokyo or Timbuktu. We didn't stray too far.

But our own tiny town of 2500 or so was frontier enough for anyone, and, in what feels all these decades later like a deliberate, considered balance to the more bookish side of my nature, but was probably just imposed on me by the environment, I spent a lot of my time outdoors. In the summer especially, I'd spend 5 or 6 hours a day just behind our house swimming in the cold runoff-fed waters of Stuart Lake, or buckling on my first-gen Sony Walkman and riding my bicycle further and further out along the limited network of paved roads that snaked out along it, or to the south towards Vanderhoof, or the 10 or 15 kilometers north to the saw mills, after which the asphalt just stopped. Looking for something.

The trees never ended. The trees were everywhere. There were some things, growing up, that seemed limitless in their supply, overabundant, somehow both comforting and a little obnoxious in their insistence on being a part of every experience you could have: the trees, the water, and the snow. Nobody, or at least no young people that I knew, ever entertained for a moment the possibility that these things weren't eternal, perpetual, guaranteed. We were ants on a golf course, surrounded by plenty, living the good life, and occasionally cursing the sprinklers.

For my part, I was one of those young people -- and by no means was I in the majority -- who couldn't wait to get out, and once out, stayed. But I was also in a minority of the escapees, I think, in that I loved the place, even before I left. I'd read enough science fiction as a preteen to know that the dystopian extrapolations of scorched and dusty futures were based on the lives that people in more populous and less resource-blessed places were living already. I wasn't all that keen to hunker down or bunker up.

I was afraid in a weirdly longing way of the nukes we assumed would soon be sailing along gravity's rainbow, even if I was confident that up there in the North we'd be relatively unscathed by the coming armageddon. But I loved the sulphurous mineral rich town water that stained porcelain orange. I loved the thunderstorms that rolled in from the west over the 60 kilometre expanse of the lake, the bloodsplash summer forest fire sunsets, the northern lights you could almost hear, the way the hip-deep powdery snow creaked and puffed when the temperature got down to 40 below zero and your eyelashes began to freeze together. I loved the dusty evergreen smell of the trees and the rocks when we climbed up Mount Pope under flawless blue skies, I loved skindiving out to the drop-off in the lake, where the water, clear as air, grew dark and frightening, and my lungs felt ready to burst as I tried again and again to see what was down there, every minute irrationally terrified remembering the stories of giant sturgeon that had been pulled from those depths in decades past. I loved riding out on the lake in boats, and even riding on the river, even though that's where my younger brother had died, in that fast dark water, when I was 6 years old. I loved blizzards and whiteouts, and waking up in the morning to see drifts of fresh snow that reached the roof of our house in beautiful mathematical arcs. I loved standing in our cold kitchen in my robe in the winter mornings before school while my mom made me breakfast, over the floor grate as the furnace blew hot air up my legs. I loved when the spring came and the roads and streets shed their dirty ice shells, and I could once again hop on my bicycle and prowl the streets, nose in the air smelling that good spring smell, hoping that maybe I'd see the girl I was in love with, but almost never seeing her. I loved the brief melancholy autumn smell of wet leaves in the freezing rain.

I didn't fit in very well in many ways, though I tried, and once I began to drink -- the official sport of Northern BC -- it became much easier, and much as there were many people I loved and still love in that place, in some ways it was the place itself that made the greatest mark on me. I am and always will be someone who loves things green and blue and clean, and a smalltown boy who hauls out his big-city credentials and plays the global nomad urban expat sophisticate with a little reluctance.

I've been an expatriate most of the last 20 years and I'll probably never live there again, but it will always be a huge part of who I am.

The reason our little town has existed and more or less thrived in the last century or so, though it was the first capital of British Columbia back in the fur trading goldrush days of the 19th century, has been the forestry industry. It's a beautiful place, and tourists do come, but the lumber mills have always, at least in the last few lifetimes, provided something like 80% of the jobs, and powered an even larger component of the overall economy. It has been the same story for most of the small towns in the region. I worked in the mills too, bitching and moaning and drinking away the bruises, during my summer vacations from UBC, back in the 80's. Taught me the value of hard work, and how much I don't really care for it.

All that's coming to an end. The trees are dying, and with them, the towns. It's the pine beetle, you see. Just tiny little bugs. Nothing so dramatic as bombs or storms or ice caps melting away.

People like to debate the phenomenon of global climate change as if it were an academic issue. People who don't live in the path of the huang-sa dust storms that sweep in out of China to blanket Korea every spring, and get worse with each passing year, people who aren't in Central British Columbia watching 85% of the pine trees die off, and with the trees, the futures of their children. People whose health or livelihood isn't directly affected.

But then again, those British Columbians aren't entirely blameless, unlike the poor Koreans (and me) who are sucking down heavy metal-laden dust that we had no part in creating. While noting that the pine beetles are a natural part of the ecosystem, Canadian ecosuperhero (at least for my generation) David Suzuki blames forest fire suppression, clearcutting (and subsequent replanting), global warming. The first two can be laid directly at the feet of the folks who live there, whether they like to admit it or not.

The global warming part is textbook: to put it simply, as I understand it, warmer winters means reduced insect die off in the coldest part of the year, which means more of the little buggers the following season, and warmer temperatures the rest of the year means they spread further.

Forest fire suppression breaks the necessary cycle of old growth die off and renewal.

Clearcutting means huge areas are effectively denuded, and replanting with a single species of tree means a lack of biodiversity in the new forest, green as it may appear.

The bugs have rushed in as a result, and whole region is in very big trouble.

In the 6 years leading up to 2007 130,000 square kilometres of pine forest have been destroyed by the beetles. To put that number in perspective, that's the area of the country of England, or about one and a half times the area of South Korea. It's an armageddon all right, but not the kind that gave me nightmares when I was a teenager.

The irony to all this is that the massive die off of pines (and the infestation is moving to spruce, apparently) means, according to some researchers, that the forests of BC will no longer act as a carbon sink for the earth's atmosphere, but by 2020 will become a carbon source, making the problems even worse. It wouldn't be excesssive to describe this as a calamity. An area the size of a small country will be filled with standing kindling, which means forest fires will rage on a scale never before seen -- imagine, again, the entire country of England aflame for a sense of the scale involved.

Imagine that.

And companies that practiced unsustainable clearcutting, and the successive governments that allowed it? A special circle of hell will hopefully be reserved for those bastards. You know, if you believe in that sort of thing.

Have a look at this, to get an idea what those greedy f--kers have done to my home, and to our collective heritage over the past few decades. First, what the forests around my hometown (it's at the tip of Stuart Lake, there, center left) looked like in 1973, not long after my family moved there. Unbroken green, punctuated only by the blue of the northern lakes, and some farmland around Vanderhoof, down there at the lower left.

Now have a look at the same area in 1999. See the clearcuts? See what 'stewardship of the resource' has meant? See the spots, like some kind of mange, some horrific skin disease? Good job, you scum. You've burned your own house down around your ears. Thanks, American owners of Canadian forestry companies! You've screwed us again.

I have nothing against forestry. I have nothing against logging. It has been the lifeblood of the community that made me who I am, and supported people I know and love (and some I don't care for so much, I admit.)

What I can't and couldn't ever ignore, yeah, even while I was sweeping up the damp rich sawdust for fifteen bucks an hour, is the ways in which it has been pursued. And now, finally, the bats are coming home to roost, and it will be decades before the province and the industry recovers. Next time, maybe, they'll do it right. If there is enough fossil fuel left to do it, and any communities left to work there.

So what's happening on the ground? Two years ago, when I last visited Canada, I drove a rented car from Vancouver the 1100km north to Fort Saint James. There were stretches of a hundred kilometres and more where every tree that lined the highway on either side, once stately and evergreen and immutable, was the dull reddish brown of standing deadwood. It was a terrible thing to see. My mother, who was mayor of Fort Saint James for 14 years and still lives there, painted a pretty gloomy picture when we last talked. Of the 4 lumber mills that have provided most of the economic steam to run the community for decades, two are out of business, and one, run by the native community, is limping along with about 50 employees. Young families are leaving in droves. Real estate prices are plummeting, and houses are standing empty. Last year was one of the best ever for tourism, and that will hopefully never change, but other towns in less beautiful areas are in the process of drying up and blowing away.

Trees take decades to grow in Northern British Columbia. The good times are not going to come back any time soon.

I don't pay much attention to goings-on in Canada. I don't know how much attention is being paid to this. I suppose people are too worried about the coming real estate bust in the cities. I suppose the economic boom and environmental nightmare of the oil sands in Alberta offers some distraction. I don't know. But what I am sure about is that my hometown is dying.

I have mixed feelings.

The forests will come back. The forestry industry and government will, we can only hope, learn some lessons. People will relocate -- Canada is a nation of migrants -- and towns will shrink and maybe disappear. It's probably just wishful thinking, but it would be nice to think that things will shift toward a real attitude of sustainability and stewardship.

No matter how it all plays out, a lot of people will be hurt in the process. It takes a lot of good to outweigh the pain that the end of a way of life brings.

It's happening all over the world. They say change is good. They say a lot of stuff.

Update: The news is that a local (-ish) company has taken over the largest mill in Fort Saint James, the one that closed a year ago. They are aware and resigned to the fact that they will lose money for a good while, but they are focused on the long-term. This is fantastic news for the town -- it means hundreds of jobs, and means the town will not dry up and blow away. Other towns may not be so lucky, but I am gratified that my hometown at least seems to be looking at a stay of execution.

Here's a pretty word cloud, in celebration:

3:19 PM | 11 comments and 1 trackback

When I was a teenager, I thought a lot about the end of the world. In particular, the rain of nukes that always seemed just around the corner. I was fascinated and terrified. I suppose that's not an unusual thing for kids that age, and might even have been the usual for m-m-m-my generation.

I grew up in the 70s, came of age in the early 80s. I was convinced that nuclear war was near-inevitable. I had no doubt that doddering dimwitted Ronald Reagan (read 'his handlers') and whichever doddering Soviet supremo was currently being propped up and jerkily animated with electric current (read 'his handlers') were going to blow the crap out the world. I dreamed about it. I can remember a grand total of one wet dream from my pubescent years; I can remember literally dozens of atomic holocaust dreams.

I remember Helen Caldicott and her Canadian-made If You Love This Planet. They showed it to us in high school. I remember the TV movies Threads and The Day After. Two and half decades after seeing Threads, I still remember the camera lingering on the puddle of urine at the woman's feet as the mushroom clouds rose. I watched The Road Warrior when it was first released. I remember reading A Canticle for Leibowitz. I sucked up all the '50s bomb-shelter paranoiac sci-fi juvenilia I could get my mother to buy for me at the bookstores on our shopping trips to the nearest city. I read what little I could find about the growth of the Cold War arsenals. It was... a hobby of mine.

Not that I was the archetypal Weird Kid or anything, muttering head-down through greasy locks about the 'end of the world'. I had normal hobbies, too: comics and computers, swimming and biking, booze and friends' fast cars. Girls. I showered regularly. But I did dream a lot about the end of the world.

And they weren't all nightmares by any means. See, I grew up in a tiny town more than 1000 kilometers north of Vancouver. I was completely confident that when the bombs fell, we'd be safe and secure. When I was in Grade 5, my gifted-group teacher had had a meteorologist boyfriend who'd lent me (and the other smart kid they'd cut from the herd to study what and how we liked) his weather maps. I'd learned about the prevailing wind currents of north-central British Columbia. We'd be all good when the balloon went up. The nearest mushroom cloud might sprout and rain its deadly ash 500km away, at worst, accidental mistargetings notwithstanding, and leave us basically unscathed

We had moose and squirrel salmon, we had farms and ranches, we had endless forest. Fruit might get a little scarce, but hell, I didn't much like fruit anyway. My house had a deep well, and the lakes and rivers were sweet and clear. Nuclear winter? No worries. We lived through -45°C spells every damn year. We'd get by. Let the mad bastards down south kill each other off en masse. We'd be the inheritors of the earth, us hardy northern canucks, ululating our diesel-powered ways down out of the arboreal wastes, antlers strapped to the hoods of our Barracudas and pickup trucks, to rebuild things in our own Royal Reserve-powered image. Proud Canadians. There'd finally be some kind of payoff for living 40 miles up the asshole of the earth for so many years.

Armageddon didn't seem like such a bad thing. Not the best result in a lot of ways, sure, but Ouroboros the world-turd was spinning at the bottom of the bowl, anyway. Time for cleansing holy nuclear fire! It'd be a shame, all those innocent people getting torched, but we kept reading how overpopulation was going to kill the planet even if the nukes didn't.

So talk these days of a coming economic armageddon with Ground Zero in America's bubble have actually put me in a nostalgic mood. Headlines like China threatens 'nuclear option' of dollar sales take me right back to 1982. Media tidbits like Jim Cramer's recent howling monkey-boy histrionic meltdown -- 'It's Armageddon out there!" have fascinated me in the kind of way that (metaphorical) nuke-porn did back in the day.

It's far from certain, of course, that the blow up is going to happen, or even that things will fall apart. But I've been watching the whole thing for years now, after decades of conditioned ignorance about economics, and the New Great Depression feels as likely to me as nuclear tennis did back in the early '80s.

Then again, that didn't end up happening, did it? There's some comfort in that, I guess.

A comment from the perspicacious Malor in a recent Metafilter thread (among many others about the subprime mortgage mess, the yen carry trade, the liquidity dry-up, and all the rest) lays out genesis of the worst case scenario pretty well, I think. Is it a Minsky Moment? Yeah, probably.

Malor said:

We should have gone into a horrific recession after the stock market bubble popped in 2000. The size of that bubble was far bigger than the one in 1929, so the consequences should have been even more severe... something on the order of severity of the Great Depression, although I think a 1970s-style stagflation writ large was the likeliest outcome.

What happened instead is that the Fed panicked and hit the liquidity button, flooding the system with incredibly cheap money. New money chases inflation, and causes more of it, so it went into housing, and then people started leveraging themselves up into massive debt to buy more of it.

Bubbles have been called the fiscal equivalent of a nuclear weapon; the only way to avoid the fallout is by not having one in the first place. The stock market bubble was a huge deal, though probably survivable.

But the Fed, which set off the original bubble with easy money, tried to fix the fallout with more of the same medicine that got us sick in the first place. To stop the fallout from one atomic bomb, they set off two fusion weapons instead.... and we didn't even dodge the fallout from the first bomb, we just delayed it. The explosion of the other two bombs just sent the fallout into orbit, but it's still up there, and we're still gonna eat every rad.

At the very least, we're going to have a full generation of very hard times, tougher than anything in living memory. I think we will be exceptionally fortunate if the United States continues to exist as the same legal entity.

In terms of likely outcome, my operating theory is that we'll go into a short-term deflationary crunch, but the Fed will open the floodgates and send us into an inflationary death spiral. Not just nasty horrible stagflation for two decades like we would have had from the Y2K pop, but an actual hyperinflationary death spiral for the dollar.

With fiat currency, I just don't think a true deflationary collapse is possible... although with the unbelievably massive leverage in the derivative positions, I suppose it could happen. Money could be destroyed from debt default faster than the Fed can lend new dollars into circulation.

There's one name you should remember in the coming crisis: Greenspan. This is all his doing. His refusal to ever allow a recession, ever, led us directly into this mess. He never met a problem he couldn't cover up with liquid paper.

I think Malor might be overstating the case when he talks about a generation of hard times. On the other hand, if China pulls the economic trigger, he might be understating it.

Anyway, the winds taste the same to me because as the tension builds I'm once again far from the places where the corpses will litter the ground if and when the hammer falls. Two and half decades ago I was in the far north of Canada, confident that we'd be able to sustain ourselves while the rest of the world went to hell. Now I'm in Korea, and if economic armageddon happens, once again I'm not directly in the line of fire. Once again, if it all goes to hell, I'll feel sorry for all the people (even the stupid ones who went for their two year no-money-down teaser-rate no-declare ARM mortgages for a McMansion they knew they couldn't afford) who lose it all. The rich will make it through, as they always do, this time with Bushy legislation and offshore accounts rather than hardened bunkers and hidey holes.

Well, I like to say I'll feel sorry about the end of days. I said to myself when I was 17 that I'd be sorry about all those crispy corpses down in CanadAmerica South. But not entirely sincere the sentiment, I have to admit, then or now. The truth is, of course, in some ways, on some days: I think I'd feel like pumping my fist, taking a deep breath, and shouting 'That's what you get for shortsighted greed and systematic stupidity, you bastards!' Or more succinctly, 'cause my wind is not what it once was, 'Suck it, dummies!'

I'm a bad man that way. Or part of me is and was, at least.

Bad things are going to happen to the Korean economy, certainly, if and when America's economy goes tits-up and takes the rest of the world with it. But if I lived in North America, if I was mortgaged to the hilt, if I was living from paycheck to paycheck, I'd be a lot more worried about it than I am here in Korea with my life savings in won and no debt.

Maybe we ought to buy some gold, though.

So I am back where I was when I was young -- a cleansing fire might just be what's needed to clean out the corruption and cauterize the wounds. Part of me almost looks forward to it. I'm not sure if I really believe that, or if it's just the romantic teen I was surfacing again for a last misanthropic gasp before he goes down into that dark cold water for the last time.

Either way: armageddon schadenfreude. It's not just a good name for a postmodern superhero.

[Update: more background material and some excellent explanations of the IMPENDING DOOOOOOOM in this MeFi thread.]

6:36 PM | 9 comments

...so in America when the sun goes down and I sit on the old broken-down river pier watching the long, long skies over New Jersey and sense all that raw land that rolls in one unbelievable huge bulge over to the West Coast, and all that road going, all the people dreaming in the immensity of it, and in Iowa I know by now the children must be crying in the land where they let the children cry, and tonight the stars'll be out, and don't you know that God is Pooh Bear? the evening star must be drooping and shedding her sparkler dims on the prairie, which is just before the coming of complete night that blesses the earth, darkens all the rivers, cups the peaks and folds the final shore in, and nobody, nobody knows what's going to happen to anybody besides the forlorn rags of growing old, I think of Dean Moriarty, I even think of Old Dean Moriarty the father we never found, I think of Dean Moriarty, I think of Dean Moriarty.

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A Poetry Break brought to you by the fine people in the AudioVisual Division of Wonderchicken Industries™

10:31 PM

I was somewhere between point A and point B, as I had been for most of the decade in question. For most of my life, when it came to it.

Wait, that's not the way to start it. Let me try again.

I've never been as fascinated by sex as most people seem to be, but there was a lost few days that I remember....

No, that's not how I want to tell this story either.

One more time.

There was this girl in high school. She was attractive, splendidly put together, but clumsy somehow. Unpopular, invisible. And smart. Too smart, and too interested in making sure that people knew it. Me, I was smart too, but I spent as much time as possible trying to rebrand it, at least to those elements of the cabal that didn't appreciate that kind of thing. I was as kind to her as I was to most people, because I was a nice guy, especially when I was sober, even as I was limping unsuccessfully after other, unobtainable young women, stealth erection tucked down my leg.

Most of a decade after high school, I had decanted myself back into the Old Home Town after a time drinking and sailing in Mexico, skinny tan squinty pickled and worldy-arrogant, and we met again, and drank together, and she was magnificent. Gorgeous, and grace had replaced teen clumsiness. Apparently, she'd been in teenage love with me. Oh.

We screwed like minks on the floor at the foot of her parents' bed after the bar closed. Her parents were in a nearby town dealing with the aftermath of her grandmother's death, which was why she was also back in town. It was one of those things that happen, and it was nice, and fleeting. And hotter than hell, I tell you now.

Months later, and I was making my way back down to the big city. I'd saved a couple of thousand dollars working mill and was ready to buy a ticket out again, to wherever. Wherever had treated me pretty damn well before. She'd left an open invite to come and stay with her, anytime, and I decided to take her up on it.

That's where the whole 'I've never been dick-led' thing that I mentioned comes in. I didn't love her, sex was a thing that I liked but didn't crave: I didn't know what the f--k, but I was 20-something, and I wanted to walk through whatever doors opened up in front of me, on principle if nothing else. And that illicit carpet sex had been... good.

So I rolled into her town on the Greyhound, called her, and she picked me up, and we went to the liquor store, and she bought half a dozen bottles of liquor, and we went to her house, and we f--ked a lot.

We drank -- or, mostly, I drank, at the arborite-and-aluminum table in the kitchen of her small, neat apartment -- and then we f--ked. Mornings, she went to work, and I stayed, and wrote, and smoked, and waited until the afternoon to drink again. I don't remember eating during those 4 or 5 days but I suppose we must have.

It wasn't love driving the lust, which was a new thing, at least for me. It was an echo of love for her, maybe, a salute to an unrequited one a decade old. It was good for both of us, I supposed and I liked to think, in completely different ways.

The night before I left -- and this was the memory that started me telling this story, this story I couldn't figure out how to start, and now, having started, have reservations about telling its denouement -- it was Saturday night and Canada-cold, we were drunk as lords, and I was going down on her, and her muscles were a-twitch and her transported. I was proud as hell that I was making her come. I'd never known a women before who had her own apartment and all.

As the orgasm rolled over her, she let a massive fart out on my chin. It was a ripper. I took it with aplomb -- I had at least a bottle of scotch in me -- and looked up after it had finished, over the smooth terrain of her belly. Staring at the ceiling, as the muscles on the insides of her thighs quivered and quieted against my ears, she said "I didn't get to see my grandma before she died."

We drank some more that night after we got dressed. I left the next day, and we parted friends.

I don't know what this story means, but the memory came to me tonight as I drank my beer, and I thought I'd tell it, because I miss writing shit down sometimes.

9:44 PM | 13 comments

This is about something I love. Not as much as beer, perhaps, but more than a hell of a lot of other things.

Maybe 6 months ago I was trolling one of the private darknet sites where I get my bittorrents, looking for something new to download, watch, and delete, as usual. All that fat pipe Korean bandwidth going to waste is a crying shame, and I do my best to keep it humming, and make sure that the carbon doesn't build up in the virtual valves. The Korean government gets a big wet kiss from me for their policy of relentlessly ramming bandwidth down the throats of their citizens (and the scruffy no-account foreigners who squeak in through the cracks), if not for many of the other decisions they stumble into.

So I was 4 or 5 pages deep in the movie forum, and there it was, with only a couple of peers on the torrent so far. I swear, my heart skipped a beat. I caught a whiff of those dusty sun-pummelled rocks of Southern California, and the rich stink of bubbling road-tar. A few notes of the theme song. An fleeting image of perfectly conical 1963-era brassiere-bound breasts. A shiver of the joyous goofiness of life's meaningless serendipity. I hadn't thought about the movie in decades, probably, media-starved and nomadic as I'd been during my wanderyears. It was, without exaggerating, one of the formative films of my young life. It helped make me the man I am today. I fired up the torrent and whispered a breathy 'woo hoo', so as not to wake up She Who Must Be Obeyed, and the downstream rate nudged its way up past 400KB/s.

The movie was "It's A Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad World".

Let me tell you about how this movie lodged itself so deeply in the crenellations of my brain. I warn you, there may be some adult concepts and situations involved, though. What else do you expect from the wonderchicken?

I started babysitting when I was maybe 10 years old, I guess. I didn't do it much, and only for some friends of the family who had two kids about 7 or 8 years younger than me. I'll call them the Potters. Mostly it was a New Years Eve thing, when my parents would go out with Mr and Mrs Potter and get smashed and celebratory at whatever parties were happening in our little town. At that point, they were almost ten years younger than I am now, which makes me feel a little wobbly when I think about it.

Anyway, it was the New Year's Eves I remember the most. I probably had a good run of 5 years or so before I got old enough that I wanted to start going out myself and getting loose on illicitly-acquired booze on December 31st. But I didn't mind doing the babysitting one bit during those years. Mr Potter, you see, had something that my father didn't (or had hidden too damn well for me to find, much as I tried).

The porn.

Out in plain site, tucked into the accordion sidepocket and jammed down alongside the seat cushion of his chestnut-brown naugahyde recliner. In a messy pile mixed in with the TV guides and local newspapers on the floor. The thing was, it was almost all textporn, and I discovered it by accident, out of boredom. I don't even know if the genre even exists anymore -- cowboy novels with long, long stretches of pure high-octane sex. I still remember the night when I first found it. I was sitting in the recliner with a bowl of salt and vinegar chips on the folding TV-dinner table beside me, and I pulled out one of the broken-backed paperbacks that was jammed between the cushion and the armrest. Like all of the others I read over the ensuing years in that house, the cover featured a long-haired, spectacularly-bosomed woman, mostly clothed but inevitably dishevelled in a long dress, with a gunslinger, whitehat or black, posed like an action figure, guns metaphorically out. This paperback was totally flat, open about midway through, and when I scanned a few paragraphs, something went 'boing' in my head, if not right away in my pants.

Keep in mind this was the mid1970's, and I was only about 10 or 11. The only naked women I'd seen had been in the couple of low-rent skin mags that other boys had somehow purloined and brought into school, or that I'd literally stumbled upon in the woods. There wasn't an internet, and we had no movie theatre, and only two channels on the TV, video rentals didn't exist. Porn was an as-yet unexplored frontier. A different world than we live in today, where 9-year-olds are sending each other goatse links.

I wonder now if my eagerness around that time to go and babysit for the Potters seemed a little odd, somehow. I wonder too if my love for words grew at least in part out of these intense early textfests. I know where my love of the road came from.

I was a big reader already at that age, but the rare sex scenes in my vast mom-sponsored collection of science fiction were like whale-oil candles to this nuclear blast of meat. It went on for page after page of sucking and nibbling and grunting and heaving and cowpokery. I was boggled.

How on earth does this tawdry little tale connect with "It's A Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad World", you ask? Well, that was the movie that, for some reason, our nearest CTV affiliate station played in its long form as the late show every single New Year's Eve in those days. Like begging my folks to let me stay up for the Sean Connery Bond movies, or the Sunday afternoon double-shot of Disney and Bugs Bunny, it had assumed a kind of ritualistic significance for me.

I loved the movie regardless -- it was shown at other times during the year, and I'd seen it half a dozen times by that point anyway -- but it played so regularly as the background soundtrack to the pure unalloyed joy of smacking my weiner around like a pinata at a fat kid's birthday that they eventually merged into twin double-happiness somehow, back in the root of my pubescent lizard brain.

For the first couple of years I sat in the Potters' living room, though, it was just about the unlimited cola and snacks. I had a quick scan of whatever cowboy porno was laying around the living room occasionally, and there had been some interesting stirrings in the groinal region, sure, but around the time I turned 12, it all started to change.

I recall the moment at which curiosity and a feeling of general naughtiness blossomed into a full-blown vocation. Long after the kids had been put to bed, of course, mind you. Most of the time they'd already been put to bed before I even showed up, and the house was mine from the get-go.

Over the previous year or so, things had been getting cramped in my jeans when I was doing my late-night study of Mr Potter's novels, and I'd taken to letting myself out for some air, if you take my meaning. And, you know, I'd discovered in the fullness of time that giving myself a bit of an aimless rub once in a while was a pretty pleasant thing, too.

But one night, on New Year's Eve, it was, the damn thing just went off. Like a geyser.

Nobody could have been more shocked and surprised than I was, once my eyes rolled back down out of my head. I guess I must have known this sort of thing happened -- I'd been reading those damn cowboy books during my babysitting sessions for a year or two by that point -- but that was different than having it actually happen to me. And of course, "It's A Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad World" was playing on the TV in the corner, beside the dried-out Christmas tree.

The rest of that night I'll slide a diffusion lens of modesty over, but suffice it to say that I could barely walk on January 1st. I'd discovered something that would occupy a lot of my free time over the next few years.

Until I saw that torrent file for The Movie, I'd almost forgotten about the supporting role it played in my sexual awakening, not as fodder, but as refractory-time wallpaper.

I don't think my slightly irrational love for the movie is entirely about the sexual imprinting, necessarily. The movie itself is not especially sexualized for me. And these days, I don't much care for cowboy novels or brown vinyl recliners, nor do salt and vinegar potato chips give me spontaneous erections. There's much to love about the movie, I think, and it's become like an old friend long-lost and remade for me in the six months since I've downloaded it. Somehow it takes me back to a time when new worlds were opening wide, full of possibilities. Sex and the road, out there in front of me.

I remember how that seeing that arid Californian desert, so alien to me and so clean, how seeing those cars race through it set up resonances in my brain that I couldn't explain. That I still can't, for that matter. How the movie made me laugh. How it mixed with the heady fumes of newly-discovered sex, and filled me with an awareness that life was both utterly random and completely hilarious.

On some of those Friday nights at home since I've rediscovered the movie, when I've had my fill of beer and my reflexes have degraded too far to be much damn good in Rocket Arena 3, and I've sung along with a few Tom Waits songs, and am weary and hungry, I find myself firing up the movie and watching a few scenes. Imagining myself rakish and dissolute in a heavy steel-framed convertible with a woman in a satin gown, racing across the California desert towards the Big W. And I feel both rooted in a past that I frequently have difficulty remembering, and a little bit free.

But these days, at least, I keep my hands above the waistline.

10:46 AM | 4 comments and 1 trackback

Goodbye, Hunter, you old bastard.

You meant a lot, to a lot of us.

2:05 PM | 1 Comment

Here's a story.

I'm smoking a cigarette, sweating, panting a bit, buzzed. I'm looking out to the north towards Horseshoe Bay, sorta leaning against my seat, straddling the bike, after climbing hard a-pedal most of the way up the hill from Spanish Banks to UBC. Out on the edge of the cliff, at the end of a little trail half a dozen metres from the road, in the bushes, private-like. The same place I usually stop for a smoke after doing the Big Circle. I'm... what? 21? Strong, young, full of juice and big ideas. Spotty, callow and dancing perilously close to full-blown alcoholism, too, but the world is my oyster, by god. You can f--k right off. I love you.

I'm wearing my Walkman, of course, because that thing has changed my life. I'm listening to Elvis Costello's King Of America, and he's singing

and it's the album that I love, right now. Women.

The sky is smeared with grey goth-lipstick clouds, as usual, but the blue is showing through, and I feel magnificent, looking at the mountains and the wrinkly sea, smoking my Player's Light. Fully oxygenated blood, full balls and, if not full volume, and least plans for full and frantic Friday night.

A raven -- big, black, alive -- lands with a thump and clink on my handlebars.

No sh-t. A f--king raven. It's like a foot and a half high, and it's right there, wabiggety baw!

I'm in that place, though. In that moment. I'm in the place that drugs only rarely managed to take me over the ensuing years, much as I tried.

So I calmly look the raven in the eye as it jinks around on the handlebars until it's facing me. It looks me in the eye. No, it f--king does, I'm serious. Not straight on, but with its head tilted a bit to my right, so it can really lay the eye on me. I don't know what to do, exactly, so I do nothing.

It checks me out, takes a minute or two, looks me up and down, jerkily, from crotch to crown, then flies off. I think to myself 'well, that was pretty cool', drop my earphones down around the back of my neck, pull out another cigarette, and think about the trickster god of the Kwakiutl and Haida and all the rest, their totem poles stolen and replanted just a few hundred metres away at the museum.

There's a rustle, another thump, a sudden grip and weight on my right shoulder.

The raven is back. It's perched on my shoulder. It's perched. On my. Shoulder. I turn my head slowly, and peer as best I can through the corners of my scratched, smudged lenses into the little black eyes. It sits on my shoulder, gripping tightly, and looks back at me.

I don't know what to do, exactly, so I do nothing.

And I turn away and look at the mountains again, and love the place I'm in, the body I'm in, the life I'm living. The raven stays with me for a few more minutes, enjoying the view, and then it leaves. Its wing flicks me in the right ear as it launches itself out into the void, over the edge of the cliff.

This really happened, in 1985 or so. I woke up this morning remembering it. It makes me proud, although I'm not exactly sure why.

8:08 PM | 14 comments and 2 trackbacks.

This stopped me in my tracks this evening, while a flood of rock and roll memories washed over me.

This :

I wonder if the sight of that piece of molded plastic ramps up in you the same welter of blurry, beery, hormonal reminiscences that it does in me. If you're pushing 40, and rocked out with your [insert gender-appropriate appendage here] out, and spent long nights at the stereo making offerings, making entertainment for your friends and lovers, thrilled by the fact that you could actually tear songs from those big black frisbees and rearrange them any way you wanted, if you spent weeks and months, years of your life swapping one Maxell after another into the cassette player of your patient buddy's Datsun F10, wiping off the rye you'd spilled, dropping your Player's Light on the carpet again, waiting for the hiss that marked the end of the leader and knowing to the 10th of a second when the first kerrang of that f--kin' kickass tune dude was going to swoop down and tweak your heart, if you remember that one night with a thermos full of vodka and pink lemonade as the snow fell like magic out of a sky that was so close and black and solid that you felt like the air was getting squeezed out of you, wearing red and white Santa gloves in the back seat of that big black fast '65 Barracuda with the first girl you'd ever really loved, the girl you still hadn't gotten up the nerve to tell, being tossed laughing to and fro as the car whipped around corners slick and roaring, if you remember sh-t like that now, then you know how I feel tonight.

Thanks to project c-90, via Mefi.

9:18 PM | 5 comments and 5 trackbacks.

It's late December, 1992. I've been living a life of madness and booze, sex, drugs and slightly dodgy rock and roll for months now. La Passionata is the name of the boat, and Marina de La Paz, or, more accurately, the anchorages just off it between the mainland and the mangrove offshore sandbar called El Mogote, has been my new stomping grounds. La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico.

How I got into this life of drinking and sailing and drinking and sailing and drinking a whole lot more is a bit of a blur, but burned bronze and blonde-streaked, skinny and intent on squeezing as much random fun as possible out of every glorious day, I'm happier than I have been in a long time.

But I can also feel my personality disintegrating, or at least that's how I phrase it to myself in my saltwater- and beer-stained journal. Maybe the sun and the booze and the whippets and speed and the untrained scuba dives, the days out at Isla Espiritu Santo and Isla Partida hunting fish and lobster and cooking them for the women we'd picked up at the Barba Negra the night before, and the nights back at the bar again running up our tab with the long-suffering owner, Jose, have taken their toll, finally.

Looking back on it now, I don't know how I could have gotten tired of it -- sometimes I'd give my left nut to be back there again, careless, happy, exalted and gloriously befuddled, swimming with whalesharks and flirting with vulpine German tourist girls, being lulled to sleep by gentle motion of the hull in the swell and the quiet slap of warm water against the fiberglass.

I'm tired of waiting in port, looking at the charts of all that crinkled Pacific coast running down all the way to Panama, I'm feeling the effects of all that recreational chemistry, and I've been offered berth on a boat so much bigger than La Pass -- 71 feet of waterline! my own cabin after sleeping in the salon and getting my head stepped on by whoever else crashed aboard on any given night! -- that I've made the decision to jump ship and head across the blue water with Elmo's Fire. And the boys on La Passionata will meet up with us down the coast, they promise. Probably in Vallarta, in a month or so. A little time away from the 24-hour party people will be good for me, I reckon, and so I move my single bag over to Elmo, and dance around a little in my own little two-bunk cabin, up under the bow, before I get to work.

Elmo's Fire's been tied up at the pier in front of the Hotel Gran Baja for years. It is averred by most that Michael, the hard-boozing but indestructible Englishman who's been living aboard since the owners disappeared -- one dead, one in jail for trafficking, one lit out to parts unknown, it is said -- is really the black sheep Viscount Ashley, and survives off a yearly stipend from the Good Family in exchange for a promise to stay the hell away. Whether that's true or not I don't care -- I've heard enough tales tall and wide in the past months to last a lifetime, and I don't care much whether they're fiction or not, they are such glorious mythical water in which to swim. Michael is a good man, and kind, if scatterbrained in the boozer cruiser way, and universally acknowledged to be a fine sailor, veteran of several TransPac races.

A few days later, less than a week before Christmas, and we've picked up a new crewmember at the Barba Negra, which, with Michael's squirrely girlfriend, makes four of us to manage this Ocean '71. The weather has come up -- Chabasco weather in the Sea of Cortez is like hurricane weather over in the Gulf -- and we're riding anchor, tucked safely into the south-facing Bahia de Los Muertos south of La Paz, waiting with nine other boats to make our break for Mazatlan. Nobody's moving. Michael's getting itchy. I'm scared sh-tless. 'Bay of the Dead' is not an auspicious name for the departure point of my first bluewater sail, not when the wind's howling down from the north at 40 to 60 knots.

Finally, about 9pm, Michael snaps, calls the rest of the cruisers on the open channel cowards, and tells us we're making sail.

I've spent the last few hours working on the SatNav, and it seems to be working as it should (for the first time in months, apparently), and I tinkered with Iron Mike, the autopilot, earlier in the day. With only a few months experience on the boats, that's about all I can do, other than follow orders, and cook dinner. We motor out past the headland, into the swell, Michael points the pointy end into the wind, and we do our deckmonkey thing and haul the mainsail up. The swell rolling down the Sea of Cortez is huge -- it feels like 8 metres, but it can't be more than 4 or 5, probably. That's enough. I'm scared. The night is young, and very dark.

Michael is standing behind the wheel grinning through his scraggly white beard now, and as he brings us around to the east, the mainsail catches the wind, and Elmo heels over, hard. The lee rail is buried in wake, and in a matter of seconds, we're flying along east-southeast ahead of massive following seas. Dale and Lenore go below, and I sit with Michael in the open cockpit, and he teaches me some of what I'm going to need to know. My watch will be 4am to 8am, and the weather could get better or worse between now and then. I sneak the occasional look over my left shoulder at the waves towering over us, and it's even more sphincter-tighteningly scary than the foam and black water coursing along the deck where the rail on the lee side of the boat is well and truly underwater. I concentrate on his lessons.

It's a few hours later -- after midnight -- and the weather has gotten heavier. The SatNav tells me that we're well and truly out in the blue water now, but it's the same dark, foamflecked and howling maelstrom of wind and wave it was when we were mere minutes offshore. The difference is that I know we're many many nautical miles from land now. It's the first time for me.

I don't think I've ever been this scared, but my sailing (and drinking) adventures in the last few months have gone some way towards acclimatizing me to functioning while terrified. I am taking some small pride in my impassive mien when particularly hard gusts push the boat over further, or rogue waves wash through the cockpit. This is going to be OK, I think to myself.

This is when Michael, who's been letting Iron Mike steer for the past hour, I find out, and just resting his hands on the wheel, decides he might as well have a drink. Michael never has just one drink. Neither do I, if truth be told, but then I'm not the f--king skipper on this little passage.

There is one rule that my friends back at Marina de La Paz, most of whom are boozers of an intensity and dedication I'd rarely seen before -- and this is saying a lot -- have drilled into me. You drink in port or at anchor; you do not drink while under way. You do not do it.

Michael cracks his first beer. My eyes go round, my sphincter goes loose, and tightly-wound escalates to underwear-staining. Brown Alert! It doesn't take long to figure out that other than Michael, I'm the most experienced sailor on board. And I don't know sh-t.

By 3am he is pissed, semiconscious and prone, wrapped in a poncho on the downwind bench of the cockpit. Beer cans are rolling around, awash, in the cockpit. Our other two crew members are below, sleeping, presumably. I am behind the wheel, and the seas are getting heavier, to the extent that the autopilot whines and chatters in protest as it struggles to bring the bow around in the wake of maybe one in five of the huge waves that are sliding beneath us. I disengage it and take the wheel.

For the next 3 hours, I steer that massive boat through the storm. My only time before this behind the wheel of Elmo's Fire has been a couple of hours running before the wind from La Paz down to Bahia de Los Muertos, before the winds came up. Er, yesterday. I'm way out of my depth. What Michael told me before he passed out -- that to jibe the sail in these winds would snap the boom -- keeps running through my mind, and though I try to keep our course as easterly as possible, the crash and rattle of the sail when we come down off the peak of some of these waves hammers at my confidence.

Still, although there are perhaps one or two gusts or monster waves per hour, enough to make me jump and struggle to keep the boat under control, I begin to get used to it. Michael snores away, through spray and hull-slam, and I try to keep the cigarettes I've been chainsmoking dry, and begin to understand that I have not failed, and that we probably won't die. I realize that this night may have been the most important test of my mettle so far in my young life, where I had to rise to the challenge and master it, and that I was doing it, by god.

The horizon begins to lighten before 6am. I've never been so happy to see the sun before, and as the skies begin to grow bright, the winds fall away, and the swell begins to recede. Or that's what it feels like, at least. The monsters that loomed out of the dark shrink away, and in the light of day, fear seems silly and unworthy and unmanly. In instant retrospect (just add sunlight), terror gives way to adventure.

By the time the full disc of the sun detaches itself from the eastern horizon, I can see land, a bumpy darker line above the dark water. Tempted by the memories of too many pirate movies as a kid, I shout, only a little maliciously, 'Land ahoy!' Michael starts into wakefulness, squints at me, nods, creakily limps over to the rail and pisses, then relieves me of my watch. I light us a couple of cigarettes, pass one to him, and move over.

Soon there are sounds below, and the smell of coffee wafts up from the gangway.

We'll be in Mazatlan by sunset. And then we will sail south.

4:14 PM | 13 comments

Here's a story of The Young Wonderchicken for you. 1989, I think it was, my first year in Europe.

We'd hated Italy, the Bearman and I, and there was no real reason we could point to and say "That's why this place sucks, damn it!" The previous month or two of wandering southward from Edinburgh -- where I'd been drinking Bulgarian wine, taking long windswept nighttime walks on the Portobello promenade and getting romantically involved with underaged Scotswomen for the past four months or so -- without agenda or schedule or much in mind beyond cherchez les femmes and cherchez le booze, had been glorious and, if not precisely successful in the femmes department, had at least been steeped in liquor and spontaneous goofiness.

Italy had been a bust, for some reason. I remember writing about the 'little bastard pasta-pounders' in a letter to our amigo Rick, a level of (comedic-) vituperation that back in my more peaceable days was unusual, unless I was three-sheets a'ranting. Torino, Pisa, Roma. We just couldn't seem to find any pleasant people. Or get into the rhythm of it, somehow. The highlight had probably been our unexpected discovery of a bottle of Seagram's VO in a dusty little booze shop in Rome, after a long day of Vatican-seeing and footsore street-wandering and clumsy pre-pubescent pickpocket away-shooing. It remains one of my clearest memories of that time, seeing that ridiculously underpriced bottle sitting there, a beam of sunlight cutting through the dustmotes like the finger of god and illuminating the golden elixir within as the bleedin' choir invisibule of liquor descended and sang tinny little hosannas in our ears. Perhaps a holiness hangover from Pope City, which, though impressive in a crenellated, gilded, retro-poofy kind of way, left me with a feeling more Disney than Dante. We took that bottle back to the slighty hostile hostel, and drained it in the basement lounge in the company of a batsh-t insane Tasmanian who had attached himself to us when he saw we had some of the good stuff.

So we'd just given up on it, and caught the train straight to Brindisi, where an overnight ferry would take us to Greece. I was hoping that Greece would be The Place. Paris had lived up to my romantically-elevated expectations, and even surpassed them. It had been a surprise, actually, steeped as I was in far, far too much of Miller and his Nin, and Hemingway and his gin, and all the other Americans that wrote filthy hymns to the city. Not to mention the gaggle of gloomy Frenchman that every 23 year-old of a certain disposition takes much too seriously. Our weeks in Paris had been a time of great joy, and our week of detox in Aix-Les-Bains afterwards, down at the western foot of the Alps, had been just the counterbalance we'd needed. But Italy? Well, not so much. And so I had high hopes for Greece. I was all Colossus of Maroussi'd up, I think I claimed at the time.

We'd been on the boat from Brindisi to Patras a few hours, I guess, when we began to feel a need for some liquid refreshment. Happily, beer was sold, and though back in these days our tipple of choice was good Canadian rye whiskey, our flexibility was much improved by our recent wanderings, and we purchased as many cans as we were able to carry. That turned out to be quite a few more than was strictly advisable, but that's the way of these things when you're young, dumb and full of...well, joi de vivre, I guess.

The way of these things also is that our hilarity (and no doubt our beer) smoothed introductions with some of our nearby fellow-seafarers, two guys who turned out to be wandering Eurodrunks themselves, another Canadian and an Irishman. The Canadian was a good ol' beef-fed Alberta boy, profane and pussy-struck, making us feel rather weedy with his many Tales of Concupiscent Conquest. His main goal in life seemed to be the procuring of prostitutes in as many nations as possible, and he was keen to share his accumulated wisdom on this arcane topic. The Dublin-based Irishman was a skinny, hyperkinetic, weaselly fellow, short and self-conscious, and for a member of the backpacker crowd, where your story-telling is your one universally-exchangeable currency, unusually reticent to share any personal details. Still, after some initial missteps -- the Irishman responded to our fanboy-queries about U2 with 'that Bono's fookin' sh-te!' -- we were soon rollicking on the high seas. Our two new buddies purchased and packed over to our corner of the deck a staggering number of cold cans, and, concerned that the small concession that sold the beer might close, the Bearman and I also replenished our slightly diminished reserves as well, just in case.

We played some dominos, and told tales of our travels. The Canuck, an oil worker, had many, mostly involving 'the ladies', predictably, the Irishman few. They seemed boon companions, though, thanks in part to the beer, and the odd sense of relief we felt at getting out of Italy. The Bearman and I, newbies at the game, had only a few tales to tell, but made up for lack of quantity with quality -- shamanistic firelit Tale Of The Hunt dances and gutteral shouts to indicate, for example, our dismay at the advanced age of the ladies of the evening inside the dimly lit, heavily draped precincts of that brothel in Pigalle, for example. Stories were swapped with increasing animation and jocularity, until about the third or fourth time that a steward showed up to tell us that the 'Captain is very upset and wishes you please to be silent'. We were pleased that the Captain would take personal notice of us, and asked our long-suffering friend to invite him down for beer. I don't recall him accepting, sadly.

It all gets a bit hazy at that point, but I do know that we didn't get off at Corfu, where I'd hoped to stop on the way, enchanted as I'd been by Lawrence Durrell's Miller-influenced Black Book (and remembering his brother Gerald's luminous juvenilia from high school, where we'd had to read them for English class). When I woke up it was early afternoon, and I was draped across a couple of hard plastic seats with a rivulet of drool running down into my right ear. The usual, in other words. We were approaching Patras.

The hangover started to lift as we finished going through customs, and the four of us decided, as you do, that we might as well travel together for a bit, at least as far as Athens. We decided too that the wisest course of action was to grab a room and find the nearest bar, in that order.

We found a room with three beds, and I offered to take the floor and pay a little less. More money for beer, I thought, pleased with myself for demonstrating fiscal responsibility. Couldn't be more uncomfortable than the plastic ferry seats had been, and the place looked relatively free of vermin. We dumped our gear, and as the sun started going down over the sea again, found a taverna. It was bright and crowded with friendly, happy drinkers. There were beautiful women, mugs of icy beer set down in front of us if we so much as raised an eyebrow, and what the Bearman would describe in later years as 'the best damn chips I ever ate'. I remember turning to him at one point, happy, and saying 'We're home!' And it felt like we were.

Many hours later, I was swimming up out of my alco-coma to sounds that I'd grow used to in Greece over the next 10 months -- bells and chickens. It wasn't unusual for me to wake up, in those wandering days, not knowing with any certainty where I was, or even who I was, sometimes. I quite enjoyed that blank slate feeling, sometimes, to be honest, and this morning I was feeling pretty damn groggy. I'd been having a magnificently erotic dream, involving several of the women who'd been at the bar the night before. The odd thing, though, was that as I started to cross that line from not knowing if I was awake or not, and not caring, particularly, into being quite certain that I actually was awake, the sexy sensations weren't diminishing. All this only took perhaps 5 seconds, as the gears in my mind caught, slipped, then caught again.

I realized that there was a hand in my underwear. A rather busy hand. 'Rrrr?' said my brain. I didn't remember any particular success with any of the women in the bar last night. There was also a face buried in my armpit. 'Rrrr!' said my brain, 'That's not right!' I opened my eyes, and there was the Irishman, one hand down my boxers, sniffing the living daylights out of my left armpit. I was suddenly wide awake.

I smacked him one in the head, and he looked up at me as if I'd hurt his feelings. Although I wasn't so much angry as I was discombobulated and disoriented and dehydrated, I pointed to his bed with some authority, and tried to say with my eyes 'get back there or I'm gonna get mad. You wouldn't like me when I'm mad!' He slowly clambered back into his bed, and as he silently watched, I moved my blanket over to the patch of floor between the Bearman and the oil-worker, who were still snoring away in blissful ignorance of the absurd little drama, and pointed vigorously at his bed to indicate that I would prefer that he stay there. Then I went back to sleep.

We all woke up a few hours later, ate a greasy, glorious breakfast, and left for Athens. Nothing more was said of armpits or underpants.

So there's a little story. I wrote it for you because I have nothing really to say about all this gay-marriage brouhaha in America other than it's criminally stupid that it should even be something that people are upset about, and because the Bearman is going back to Greece in a couple of months with his Cypriot-Canadian wife and I wish I could go, and I woke up the other morning thinking about Greece. I hold no resentment to the Irishman who woke me up by fondling my junk -- it seemed a funny way, even at the time, to wake up on my first morning in Greece. And I don't think I've ever met a female backpacker that didn't have a tale, at least in those days, of unwelcome fondling by some creepy guy in a hostel somewhere.

I've never been one to be angry at individuals for their folly and their weakness, beyond an occasional rant or two. En masse, maybe, yeah. I just love to stir up the sh-t, and I've done some of that in recent times, sure, but that's only because it was fun. I'm all about the love, honest. And I loved Greece. It turned out to be one of the greatest places I've ever been, and I miss it sometimes.

It has a special place in my heart, if not my underwear.

5:02 PM | 6 comments

The sound that is made when you are biting through your own flesh is a little like that of thick rubber being torn. It's wetter, and when you hear it inside your head, it's kind of terrifying.

I bit a hole about the size of a dime deep into the top of my tongue, near the centre, the other day. I don't know how the hell I managed to do it. I was eating some soon-dae (potato noodles spiced and stuffed into pig intestines, with boiled, sliced organ meat on the side - tastier than it sounds) when suddenly the molars on the right side of my mouth met a bit more resistance, there was that odd sound, loud enough that my wife beside me started and stared, and the hot, salty flood started. No pain, not right away.

I went to the bathroom and let a mouthful of blood pour out -- a real Wes Craven moment, which made me once again wish we could afford that digital camera I want -- and had a look. Great meaty flap, deep hole, reddish-black blood gushing out. Cool.

I hate doctors, so I applied ice and didn't eat for a few days. The nub of flesh that pokes up out of the scar and the crater beneath it will be with me for life, I suspect. This is, in its way, good.

The sound that the small bones in your foot make when they break are not so much a crunch as a crack, startlingly loud. About 3 months back, I drove the corner of a doorjamb between my third and fourth toes on my left foot as I walked calmly into the bedroom to get the ironing board. Broke both toes, and a couple of bones in my foot as well, judging by feel. I did the 'apply pressure/apply ice/elevate above your heart' routine to minimize swelling, and bound the toes together.

I hate doctors, so I self-medicated, went back to work the next day, and limped around for the next 6 weeks or so while my foot slowly changed colour. I don't think some of the bones set properly, and the area is still a little tender if I poke or prod it the wrong way. This is, in its way, a valuable reminder to watch where the hell I'm walking.

I'm not sure precisely what led me to my wholehearted loathing of the medical profession, although I do have a few ideas as to the antecedents.

My hometown, an island of a couple of thousand brave and drunken souls isolated in a sea of trees way up in the part of British Columbia where the map merely notes 'Here Be Monsters,' was served by an odd, sullen, ragtag crew of medical practitioners over the years I grew up there. Most were South African, and were bound by contract to be there in order to get their residency in Canada. How much our town benefitted from the Immigration Department requirements that doctors migrating to Canada spend their first few years dealing with family violence and alcohol-related injury in the Boonies was debatable, perhaps. Still, they were a novelty, with their funny accents and poorly disguised, simmering resentment.

I particularly remember one Vietnamese doctor who was, in fact, one of my favorites (and a rarity in a town where there was precisely one Asian family - the Chinese folks who ran two of the half-dozen restaurants), and who, thanks to his redneck comedy gold inability to pronounce /r/ and /l/ according to my expectations, precipitated one of the funniest conversations in which I have retrospectively been involved when he handed the 10-year-old me a plastic cup and a small wooden ice-cream spoon and asked for what I swore was a 'stew' sample.

One of the various medical mistakes, blunders, and life-threatening f--kups (back before the first thing I did upon injuring myself was Google up some advice) that I was either the victim of or a witness to was, for example, my bottomless prescription for tetracycline (a broad-spectrum antibiotic) as a teenager, intended to combat the Aetna-shaming eruptions that my face and body produced. Not on-and-off, but on, for years, nonstop. My body, strong as it is, is still paying the price for that. And this was in the early 80's - not before medical thought had come around to understanding that continual massive doses of antibiotics might just have a deleterious effect on the patient overall.

My step-father, who pulled Dad Duty from not long after my father died until about 20 years later, died, I am certain, as a direct result of the interactions in the cocktail of drugs prescribed by his doctors -- by this time another ragtag gaggle of Africans, mostly -- but not after going quite mad beforehand. Or if not bibbledy-bibbledy mad, so far sunk into full blown paranoid delusions that it was painful to carry on a conversation with him on anything but the most trivial matters.

My current step-father, 'Ol' Number 3,' a tough, boozy, no-bullsh-t ex-cowboy, experienced runaway heart fibrillations and tremors and pitty-patting for more than four months this year, to the extent that any kind of physical labor would sometimes make him lose consciousness. This was deeply embarrassing to him, and made life extremely difficult for him and my mother. He visited the docs over and over again, several times a week, a situation made more difficult by the 140 km of unpaved road between the fishing lodge where my folks live and the nearest town. Bamboozled, they merely scratched their heads in confusion, and ordered more tests. Finally, after months of this, unable to take it any longer, he just stopped taking his meds (including the new ones the doctors had prescribed), and the problem simply went away.

(There are more stories, and I'm sure you have a few too. C'mon - share!)

To hell with doctors. They can keep their pills and their guesswork. Unless I need a limb sewn back on, I'll be taking care of myself. This attitude draws great chagrin from the wife, who is a big believer in the power of The Doctor, like most Koreans I've known, who tend to run in panic to the nearest doctor (and Korean doctors are a worry in and of themselves, let me tell you) if something flies out of their noses when they sneeze.

I tell her that whatever doesn't kill me makes me stronger. I'm certain, as she shakes her head in annoyed bemusement, that in her mind she replaces 'stronger' with 'stupider.'

I can live with that.

1:58 PM | 11 comments

John reminds me that it is almost 14 years to the day since Tiananmen Square, which just reminds me that it was 14 years ago that I was living here, in predictably unrequited love with Mary, a waitress at Stavros' Irish Bar (see also) and one in a long line of bargirls who spurned me, drinking in life in massive great draughts, careless and happy and free and burning away brain cells at dizzying speed. I remember when one of the gorgeous French girls who worked in the time-share office at the hotel (whose front desk I was managing and software I was geeking) told me about Tiananmen and showed me the newspaper, I remember it like it was yesterday. I also remember that she was inexplicably and vocally impressed with the girth and sturdiness of my treetrunk-like thighs, although I can't for the life of me remember her name. Guess I didn't kill all the braincells, just the ones that counted.

That was one of my favorite places in a lifetime of favorite places :

9:55 PM | 5 comments

Via Rusty of Kuro5hin in an almost completely unrelated Metatalk thread, an etymology and cultural history of the word 'cunt'.

You learn something every day.

My fondest personal memory of the word itself (as opposed to the body parts to which it refers) comes from my first trip to London, back in 1988, I think it was. Stefan and I, fresh off the plane and train, boggled and hungover in Victoria Station, found the cheapest place we could to sleep, which turned out to be the floor of a run-down gymnasium near King's X station. Was it called Tunbridge Sports Club? I don't know, I can't remember. Something like that, anyway.

It was only a pound a night, and all we needed to do once we'd paid at the door was drag a sweat-stained foam pad from a storage room and stake out a place on the floor somewhere. The arrangement left more cash for the beer, and that was a consideration foremost in our minds at the time. The fact that it was locked up between the hours of 9 am and 9 pm was just fine, as we were happy to wander the city all day though the clouds of diesel, colonial bumpkin mouths agape. The fact that we were locked in between 9 pm and 9 am might have given us pause if we'd stopped to think about it, but we were on an adventure, damn it! No foo-foo 'youth hostels' for us.

Three people I remember from that place : two Finnish guys, one who wore one of those teacozyesque knit caps over his blonde dreadlocks and was clearly the alpha male, and the other who orbited around him, a little like the Warner Brothers yappy little cartoon dog and his big tough pal, Butch. We ended up putting our foam mats down in the same general area a couple of nights running, both duos sensing in a reassuring preverbal kind of way that neither was likely to rip the other off while sleeping. I called them Sockhead and Son, and remember them still, which is no mean feat for my Rube Goldberg machine of a brain.

The third was the foulmouthed chainsmoking Cockney who ran the place. Well, ran it to the extent that he hung around at the entrance between 9 and 10 pm, collecting pound coins in his dirty paw, and turning away anyone who looked too much like a gluehead and too little like a backpacker. His favorite phrase, which in the week or so we crashed there I must have heard two dozen times, was : 'Yoooooou foockin' cooont!' He seemed inclined to drawl it out whether happy or angry or contemplative, under any circumstances that required verbalization, to anyone that might find themselves unhappily pinioned under his bloodshot medusa gaze. Five minutes after nine and not out of the communal shower? 'Yoooooou foockin' cooont!' Only a five pound note to pay for your foam mat for the night? 'Yoooooou foockin' cooont!' Caught smoking inside the building? 'Yoooooou foockin' cooont!'

It was like a lullaby after walking 20 or 30 kilometres a day, while sinking gratefully down onto the gym floor. I remember drifting off to sleep with Grubby The Warden hectoring late arrivals at the top of his gravelly voice : 'Yoooooou foockin' cooont!' after 'Yoooooou foockin' cooont!' easing us off into la-la land.

I hated that guy, but I loved him too, because he was at least memorable. Like the Young Ones used to say about Harry the Bastard with mock-respect in their voices : what a bastard!

2:58 AM | 5 comments and 1 trackback

My mother recently found one of the journals I kept during my wanderings in the 90's, buried at the bottom of one of my old tin trunks that had been sitting out beside the woodpile at the lodge for a few years, and mailed it to me. Reading it has flung me back into the sweet mad whirl in which I lived for so many years, and brought back a peacock fantail of good and bad memories. Here's an excerpt :

December 28 1992
Latitude N 21°50.51
Longitude W 105°52.89

After an overnight cruise south from Mazatlan, the shakes from the exhaustion after 2 or 3 hours sleep are chased away momentarily with a little caffeine.

At sunset, we had 5 sails up in a vain attempt to catch what little wind there was - jib, stay, main, mizzen staysail (which was actually the old chute from Taiping), and the mizzen. We must have looked magnificent in the fading light. But as the sun went down, the flukey light winds said 'f--k it' and went to bed. We dropped everything except the main and mizzen, tried in vain to get some speed, then gave up and sheeted them in tight and turned on the engine.

About three in the a.m., orange dots began to show up like measles on the radar. A veritable flotilla of fishing boats, all overlapping their nets in continuous lines miles long, raking everything alive out of the water. Miserable bastards. No running lights to speak of, of course, and the few there were obeyed no patterns, so we had a few tense hours winding our way amongst the boats, hoping like hell that we wouldn't hit any of their nets. At least the sun-bright squid boats with their spidery armatures of lights pointing down into the water were easy to avoid.

Michael retired before we were through (a little worse for the beer I suspect) but we managed, Dale and I, to steer us through. Iron Mike, the autopilot, did most of the work - but we watched damn close, adjusting every minute or two. Came within a few hundred feet of a couple of them, which out on the open water felt close enough to smell their farts.

sh-t! Whales - I almost forgot. Not only was there a humpback in full breach not 200 feet from us as we approached Mazatlan a couple of days ago, which was my first glimpse, but shortly before sunset last night, while I was steering under sail, two more humpbacks surfaced and blew about 100 feet off the starboard beam. Curious, they turned to approach. The sheer size and majesty of those magnificent bastards terrified me. They came within about 20 feet of the rail, then, sounding, dove. Michael worried aloud that they'd 'fall in love' with the boat and bump it a little, rub against it some. They do that sometimes, he said. Maybe he was just messing with me. But they were at least as big as us, and we're 71 feet LOA. I was all over the compass, heart pounding.

The whales surfaced again about half a mile off the port beam, having dived beneath us, then turned north and headed towards Mazatlan. We sailed on, slowly, sniffing for winds.

1:45 AM | 3 comments

Today, one of the greats exeunted for the last time, took his last curtain call, and left us for that great playhouse in the sky. How could I tell the rollercoaster cinderella story of Skeleton Warrior, the passion and the pain, the sex and the drugs and the necrophiliac nights, better than he could himself :

8:18 PM | 1 Comment and 4 trackbacks.

What I don't need is another shiny thing to distract me, but this is some kinda fun, pilgrims. I know it's been around for a bit, and the alpha is almost over, but it's new to me, and it's very cool, and scary addictive. Reminds me, in a good way, of IRC (to which I've never been that attracted), crossed with the mind-expanding, imagination-tweaking, eyestrainy old days of all night text-adventuring on my big grey TRS-80.

>READ THE SIGN

"Warning! These are poisonous oranges, not meant for human consumption.
- Farmer Bozbar"

>EAT AN ORANGE

Aaarrrr! It burns your tongue and your throat!

***You have died***

I really sucked at text adventures.

6:28 AM

As I was walking home through the clouds of industrial smoke this evening, I was reminded for some reason of one particularly wild evening in Quintana Roo, Mexico, a few years back.

We'd been hired, Greg and I, to do the sound and lights for a party, a big one, that was being held in 'a barn' in Tulum, a couple of hours south of Cancun. Tulum the town, which is a nondescript collection of buildings on a crossroads on the highway, not Tulum the gorgeous Mayan ruins nearby, which are, you know, gorgeous. And ruined.

We took the 3 ton cube van down, loaded with gear, made it through the army checkpoints (we always sweated a bit with them, carrying pyrotechnics as we usually were) and found the place in the early afternoon. It was a concrete shell, barn-sized all right, and it didn't have a roof. Great. But we took it in our stride, in true make-the-best-of-it Mexican style, and had a beer while we figured out how we were going to set up. Manuel, the young Mexican guy who worked with us (and spent a great deal of his time shaking his head in bemusement at the antics of the crazy longhaired gringos) came back with some bad news : the building was connected to the grid, but that was it. No internal wiring at all.

Greg, who was the guy who actually knew how to do sh-t, after conferring with the promoters, told him to wire us up to the main circuit box. Manuel looked a bit doubtful, but after being reassured that everything was fine, he wandered off to start juryrigging sh-t together. It was the usual modus operandi - improvise, make do, and make it work.

We started setting up the triangle truss sections, the Par64 fixtures and their gels (sprinkled with sand from the last beach party a couple of days ago) and the amp racks and speaker enclosures, and 6 or 8 beers later, as if by magic, the sun was beginning to go down, and we had everything set up. There were a few more people hanging around, smoking dope, drinking, watching lazily as we tested the audio and lights. This was always my favorite part of a gig - finished the hard work for the moment, and relaxing before the party geared up. Leaving all the decisions and troubleshooting to Greg meant that I could enjoy as many beverages as I felt appropriate. The one exception had been when we'd done the indoor fireworks for New Year's Eve at Senor Frog's back in Cancun, but considering that we had blown off several thousand dollars worth of pyro inside a bar with sawdust on the floors, that had probably been wise.

Just as the last of the light was fading, it began to rain. The music had started, though, and people were arriving in droves, and they didn't seem to mind. It was a flash crowd, and soon our roofless concrete barn was packed with wet bodies, dancing under sheets of hard rain and the intermittent flashes of lightning. We put up some tarps over the audio equipment and the dj, and let it go. The rain didn't let up, but no one seemed to care. There was a weird earth-magicky kind of vibe happening, and the harder people danced, the harder it seemed to rain. Huge, warm drops grown fat in the wet air out over the Caribbean, hammering down like a waterfall.

The hippies and tourists just danced harder.

Manuel sidled over to us about half an hour after the rain really started coming down, looking terrified. Greg followed him outside, and came back a few minutes later, looking disturbed, which for him was a bit unusual. I arched my eyebrows in inquiry; he shrugged and handed me a beer.

Later that evening, things started to get bad crazy. Greg's girlfriend arrived, and Manuel found himself a peasant-skirted girlfriend from Bolivia, who lived here in Tulum, and she had a large quantity of acid. Driven by the strange, powerful feelings I was getting from the storm and the crowd, I danced like a maniac in the warm rain, and swallowed everything anyone handed to me. The promoter was thrilled at the crowds, and kept us in drinks. Even if we refused tokes, the air was thick enough with the smoke to bring on a deeper appreciation of the reggae.

I don't remember the party winding up, or loading the gear back into the truck. I do remember Greg, who despite being gloriously stoned was as usual the one experiencing the fewest visual anomalies, driving us at a snail's pace down the jungle road to the sea side cabanas where we were staying. The rain was still pounding down, there were no lights on the road, and the truck's lights weren't working. We couldn't see a damn thing out the windshield. I made Greg stop, got out of the truck, climbed up on the bumper and leaned back against the cab window, facing forward, arms spread out as if I'd been crucified, like a huge hairy moth that had been splattered on the windshield, and alternately pointed left or right as he drove. He drove totally blind, guided only by my frantic pointing as he edged toward one ditch or another, while Manuel and his new Bolivian girlfriend made out on the passenger side of the bench seat.

It worked pretty well, except when we hit speedbumps.

We made it to the place we were staying, eventually, wired tight, but couldn't handle it indoors in our thatched huts, and spent the rest of the night on the beach, watching the waves and the sparkle of phosphorescence as the raindrops struck the sea. All except Manuel and his girl, whose enthusiastic grunts and squeals we could hear in the distance, over the rain and surf.

The next day Greg told me that Manuel had "wired us straight into the mains. No breaker, no ground, no nothing." I didn't see how that had been such a bad thing, but then I made the connection to the fact that the dancers out on the concrete floor, myself included, had been frolicking in water that by midnight was about ankle deep, sliding on their bellies like seals, doing rain dances, inches from the wiring that was feeding power to the audio and lights. Greg had wanted to shut it down, but the promoter was adamant, and in the way of connected men in Mexico, was not a man that one could say no to, and stay in the area for long. We got lucky, as usual.

The Bolivian girl disappeared before Manuel woke up. Through some strange coincidence, his wallet had disappeared as well. The drive back to Cancun was a quiet one.

5:55 AM | 11 comments and 1 trackback

Back in about '86 or so, the world paused for a moment in its orbit as the musical colossus known as Naked & Shameless spontaneously appeared, boozily clambered to the very apex of the Vancouver musical scene, and then flamed out and disappeared, all in the space of days, if not hours.

Well, what really happened is that my buddy Deviant, who was responsible for the creation and dismantling of various Vancouver bands of moderate success over the decade, decided that it'd be pretty damn cool to get me liquored up in his studio, record one of my infamous spontaneous rants, then put it to music.

Unfortunately, no matter how much Ouzo I swilled, sitting on the stool in front of the mike, it just wasn't spontaneous. Performance anxiety. I did force it a bit once the booze kicked in, and pulled some ranty stuff out of my ass, but the resulting track didn't meet the high standards we had anticipated, and after a few plays on CiTR, the UBC campus radio station ("all spaceship and satan music, all the time"), sank into history unremarked.

For the purposes of branding, though (we were ahead of our time, baby), I'd come up with the name 'Naked & Shameless' for our two-man band. Myself being Jim Naked, up there under the hot lights, baring my soul, and Deviant being Dave Shameless, the evil rocknroller exploiting my gentle drunken poetic weiner-talk to get chicks and stuff.

That part was good.

Wisely, though, with our first track sucking so heinously, we decided to shelve the project.

Fast forward to a few years ago, and Deviant, who has been living in Chicago and whom I haven't seen for almost a decade, has restarted Naked and Shameless, with cousin Buck Naked replacing the dearly departed Jim. Buck can actually sing, and play. This is a good thing.

Why am I telling you all this? Besides the usual 'I'm so goddamn hip I can't see over my own pelvis' stuff, mostly 'cause I remembered that N&S have an mp3.com page with some fun songs on, which I've been listening to this evening as I get slowly plastered, and they're currently on tour, and will be playing one of our favorite Vancouver haunts this weekend, the Railway Club.

(The serendipitous thing here being that through completely random chaotic f--king weirdness, one of the owners of the Railway Club, Roger Trentenero, since deceased (murdered on his boat not long after I'd decamped, so to speak, at Playa Los Cocos, by hammer flung headward by his 16-year old Costa Rican girlfriend, is the story that I heard), was the owner of the first sailboat I crewed aboard in the Sea of Cortez, approximately midway, temporally speaking, between then and now...but that, as I find myself saying all too often, is a tale for another day.)

Drinking Song #16 is the one dedicated to me poor old Jim Naked. It's funny, but not my favorite. C'est la vie.

If you do go have a listen to any of their stuff, don't miss "Lawrence (Head of Lettuce)". A true story from our UBC days. Not even the names have been changed to protect the guilty. Rock'n'roll verité, man.

3:40 AM | 7 comments