The men who planned and carried out the bombings in Bali in 2002, the ones that killed one of my oldest and dearest friends (but only after he suffered with burns over most of his body for nearly two weeks) along with 201 other people, were executed last month.

You'd think I'd be happy about that.

Let me tell you a little story that may not seem to have much to do with this, but does, somehow, in a way that's not entirely clear to me. Maybe in the telling, I can work it out a bit.

It was the mid-70s, I think, another glorious short clean summer in Northern BC, one of the ones that stay with me in my memory, and my aunt, uncle and two cousins were visiting us.

We had taken our river boat ten or fifteen kilometers up the lake, up to one of the rocky beaches under the ridge of Mount Pope, inshore from Battleship Island. We set up our outpost on a long expanse of thumb-size pebbles rattling under a broad unclouded vault of sky, stands of jackpine and spruce at our backs clustered beardlike around yellow stone cliff outcroppings. Clear deep dark green water, hot dogs cooked on whittled birch sticks over a fire pit. It was the kind of day that makes you feel glad to be alive, especially when you're 8 or 10 years old and all is right with the world.

I remember at one point my cousins and I were ranging up the shingly beach, just exploring, when we came across the biggest snake I'd ever seen. It was glistening and black and in the water, and it took off like a shot as soon as it saw us, undulating frantically as it headed along the rocky verge, trying to escape.

We were curious, or at least I was, and we started throwing driftwood and rocks in its path, trying to get it to turn around, or slow down, so we could get a better look. I'm not sure, of course, what my cousins were thinking, but I don't think they had any more malicious intent than I did. We were curious. The missiles we hurled at the poor beast got progressively larger and we got more excited, and the inevitable happened. One of the rocks or sticks landed square on the snake, and killed it. It uncoiled and floated, light belly up.

As we'd been hollering and chasing the snake, my uncle, presumable alerted by our excitement, had come up behind us just as the fatal stone did its work. All he saw was hooting boys killing an innocent creature.

He wasn't furious, he was disgusted, disappointed. I still remember, as clearly as if it were yesterday, the look on his face. I don't think anyone had ever looked at me like that before.

Several people have sent me links to news items about the execution of the Bali bombers in the past few weeks, and each time, I've had to tell them that I just didn't know what to feel about it, much less what to think.

I find as I grow older that every year I am certain about less and less.

I've said to some folks who asked that although I do not believe that more killing is a good response to killing, if I were handed the gun, or set down in front of the switch behind the one-way glass, or just put into a room with the bastards, I wouldn't hesitate to exact vengeance for the death of my friend. Pull the trigger, press the button, beat them with my fists. I've said to my friends that I am an ape masquerading as a man.

I don't know if that's true or not, I really don't. It sounds good, I suppose, and I've always been about the dramatic pronouncement over the measured interpretation.

Is the world a poorer place without my friend Rick Gleason living in it? Yes, it is, and the same is no doubt true for the friends and family members of each and every of the other 201 people killed in the bombings. Is the world a better place without their killers living in it? I think it probably is.

We tell ourselves a lot of stories about 'the sanctity of human life'. We seem to mean the lives of those we know and love when we talk about it, and that's not surprising or wrong. We find it hard to care about strangers, and harder to care about strangers whose tribe is different, and even harder to care about those strangers who would do us harm if they could, or leave us to die without compunction. People get all misty about their Jesus and his injunctions to love one's enemies and turn cheeks.

But we don't really believe that human life, in the abstract, is sacred, even if we're willing to go the extra mile and define what we mean by sacred, do we? Not really. We make war, we ignore the roots of violent crime and turn away, we spend millions on blood-fiesta movies and video games and tell ourselves that it's about catharsis. The best we can reasonably claim to believe is that some human life is sacred.

We're not bad people, of course, most of us. Actual, personal violence we find shocking, unacceptable, abhorrent. We are traumatized by the headless corpse behind the steering wheel sitting in the puddle of blood and piss in the twisted plastic and metal of the Friday night wreck. We're dutifully frightened by the TV news items about violent crime that are intended to keep us dutifully frightened and at home watching the sponsor's messages. But we do love our serial killers and the movies about them, we love our torture porn, we love our Schwarzeneggerian one-liners before the shotgun skullpop, even while we guard our vulnerable citizens against violence domestic and corporal and sexual and even emotional. We righteously and rightfully do our best to end the social conditions that allow such things to happen. And we support our troops. You know, if we have any. We compartmentalize.

I don't think most of us are all that clear on these things, and I suppose I'm no better than anyone else.

See, if we admit that by executing those bastards, and we accept that violence has its place in our attempts to make the world better, we have accepted that violence has its place. This has consequences.

And if we're not trying to make the world better, then we're just acting out another episode of the woeful old Jehovahriffic vengeance.

I'm not against vengeance, though I'd rather be a man than an ape. I have to admit that there are times when I want to bare my yellowed fangs and rip out a throat and feel the hot pulse of blood wash across my cheek.

Thirty years later, having returned to the memory many times over the years, I don't think I wanted to kill that snake. But I'm not certain that that was actually the truth at the time.

11:27 AM | 7 comments and no trackbacks yet

When you grow up in the far north in Canada, if you're at all curious about the world and the people in it, you can't wait to get out. As soon as you're able, you head out to the big city, for work or school or whatever you can get. It isn't such a different story from kids growing up in the boonies anywhere, where it's Montana or Gangwon-do in Korea, western New South Wales or the Cyclades.

I grew up, for the years that counted at least, in Fort Saint James, British Columbia. During those years -- the early 70's to the early 80's -- it was the End of The Road. Vanderhoof was the asshole of the world and we were forty miles up it, we said, recycling that old standby. The paved highway ended in the Fort, and to go further north meant logging roads and endless washboard and pothole gravel, dusty in summer, solid ice in winter, and slicker than snot the rest of the time. There were a couple of reservations further up there, and a few scattered fishing lodges and mines and logging camps. Wilderness, though, for the most part. Endless dense forest carpetting mountains, nap worn smooth in spots by crystal-clear cold lakes and rivers. Germanson Landing. Takla Landing. Leo Creek. Deese Lake. I'd like to say I hunted bear in these places wearing nothing but a breechclout and bowie knife, but with parents who were grappling with living on the frontier after moving from southern Ontario and a little shellshocked by family tragedy, the names of these tiny, isolated places were almost as exotic to me as Tokyo or Timbuktu. We didn't stray too far.

But our own tiny town of 2500 or so was frontier enough for anyone, and, in what feels all these decades later like a deliberate, considered balance to the more bookish side of my nature, but was probably just imposed on me by the environment, I spent a lot of my time outdoors. In the summer especially, I'd spend 5 or 6 hours a day just behind our house swimming in the cold runoff-fed waters of Stuart Lake, or buckling on my first-gen Sony Walkman and riding my bicycle further and further out along the limited network of paved roads that snaked out along it, or to the south towards Vanderhoof, or the 10 or 15 kilometers north to the saw mills, after which the asphalt just stopped. Looking for something.

The trees never ended. The trees were everywhere. There were some things, growing up, that seemed limitless in their supply, overabundant, somehow both comforting and a little obnoxious in their insistence on being a part of every experience you could have: the trees, the water, and the snow. Nobody, or at least no young people that I knew, ever entertained for a moment the possibility that these things weren't eternal, perpetual, guaranteed. We were ants on a golf course, surrounded by plenty, living the good life, and occasionally cursing the sprinklers.

For my part, I was one of those young people -- and by no means was I in the majority -- who couldn't wait to get out, and once out, stayed. But I was also in a minority of the escapees, I think, in that I loved the place, even before I left. I'd read enough science fiction as a preteen to know that the dystopian extrapolations of scorched and dusty futures were based on the lives that people in more populous and less resource-blessed places were living already. I wasn't all that keen to hunker down or bunker up.

I was afraid in a weirdly longing way of the nukes we assumed would soon be sailing along gravity's rainbow, even if I was confident that up there in the North we'd be relatively unscathed by the coming armageddon. But I loved the sulphurous mineral rich town water that stained porcelain orange. I loved the thunderstorms that rolled in from the west over the 60 kilometre expanse of the lake, the bloodsplash summer forest fire sunsets, the northern lights you could almost hear, the way the hip-deep powdery snow creaked and puffed when the temperature got down to 40 below zero and your eyelashes began to freeze together. I loved the dusty evergreen smell of the trees and the rocks when we climbed up Mount Pope under flawless blue skies, I loved skindiving out to the drop-off in the lake, where the water, clear as air, grew dark and frightening, and my lungs felt ready to burst as I tried again and again to see what was down there, every minute irrationally terrified remembering the stories of giant sturgeon that had been pulled from those depths in decades past. I loved riding out on the lake in boats, and even riding on the river, even though that's where my younger brother had died, in that fast dark water, when I was 6 years old. I loved blizzards and whiteouts, and waking up in the morning to see drifts of fresh snow that reached the roof of our house in beautiful mathematical arcs. I loved standing in our cold kitchen in my robe in the winter mornings before school while my mom made me breakfast, over the floor grate as the furnace blew hot air up my legs. I loved when the spring came and the roads and streets shed their dirty ice shells, and I could once again hop on my bicycle and prowl the streets, nose in the air smelling that good spring smell, hoping that maybe I'd see the girl I was in love with, but almost never seeing her. I loved the brief melancholy autumn smell of wet leaves in the freezing rain.

I didn't fit in very well in many ways, though I tried, and once I began to drink -- the official sport of Northern BC -- it became much easier, and much as there were many people I loved and still love in that place, in some ways it was the place itself that made the greatest mark on me. I am and always will be someone who loves things green and blue and clean, and a smalltown boy who hauls out his big-city credentials and plays the global nomad urban expat sophisticate with a little reluctance.

I've been an expatriate most of the last 20 years and I'll probably never live there again, but it will always be a huge part of who I am.

The reason our little town has existed and more or less thrived in the last century or so, though it was the first capital of British Columbia back in the fur trading goldrush days of the 19th century, has been the forestry industry. It's a beautiful place, and tourists do come, but the lumber mills have always, at least in the last few lifetimes, provided something like 80% of the jobs, and powered an even larger component of the overall economy. It has been the same story for most of the small towns in the region. I worked in the mills too, bitching and moaning and drinking away the bruises, during my summer vacations from UBC, back in the 80's. Taught me the value of hard work, and how much I don't really care for it.

All that's coming to an end. The trees are dying, and with them, the towns. It's the pine beetle, you see. Just tiny little bugs. Nothing so dramatic as bombs or storms or ice caps melting away.

People like to debate the phenomenon of global climate change as if it were an academic issue. People who don't live in the path of the huang-sa dust storms that sweep in out of China to blanket Korea every spring, and get worse with each passing year, people who aren't in Central British Columbia watching 85% of the pine trees die off, and with the trees, the futures of their children. People whose health or livelihood isn't directly affected.

But then again, those British Columbians aren't entirely blameless, unlike the poor Koreans (and me) who are sucking down heavy metal-laden dust that we had no part in creating. While noting that the pine beetles are a natural part of the ecosystem, Canadian ecosuperhero (at least for my generation) David Suzuki blames forest fire suppression, clearcutting (and subsequent replanting), global warming. The first two can be laid directly at the feet of the folks who live there, whether they like to admit it or not.

The global warming part is textbook: to put it simply, as I understand it, warmer winters means reduced insect die off in the coldest part of the year, which means more of the little buggers the following season, and warmer temperatures the rest of the year means they spread further.

Forest fire suppression breaks the necessary cycle of old growth die off and renewal.

Clearcutting means huge areas are effectively denuded, and replanting with a single species of tree means a lack of biodiversity in the new forest, green as it may appear.

The bugs have rushed in as a result, and whole region is in very big trouble.

In the 6 years leading up to 2007 130,000 square kilometres of pine forest have been destroyed by the beetles. To put that number in perspective, that's the area of the country of England, or about one and a half times the area of South Korea. It's an armageddon all right, but not the kind that gave me nightmares when I was a teenager.

The irony to all this is that the massive die off of pines (and the infestation is moving to spruce, apparently) means, according to some researchers, that the forests of BC will no longer act as a carbon sink for the earth's atmosphere, but by 2020 will become a carbon source, making the problems even worse. It wouldn't be excesssive to describe this as a calamity. An area the size of a small country will be filled with standing kindling, which means forest fires will rage on a scale never before seen -- imagine, again, the entire country of England aflame for a sense of the scale involved.

Imagine that.

And companies that practiced unsustainable clearcutting, and the successive governments that allowed it? A special circle of hell will hopefully be reserved for those bastards. You know, if you believe in that sort of thing.

Have a look at this, to get an idea what those greedy f--kers have done to my home, and to our collective heritage over the past few decades. First, what the forests around my hometown (it's at the tip of Stuart Lake, there, center left) looked like in 1973, not long after my family moved there. Unbroken green, punctuated only by the blue of the northern lakes, and some farmland around Vanderhoof, down there at the lower left.

Now have a look at the same area in 1999. See the clearcuts? See what 'stewardship of the resource' has meant? See the spots, like some kind of mange, some horrific skin disease? Good job, you scum. You've burned your own house down around your ears. Thanks, American owners of Canadian forestry companies! You've screwed us again.

I have nothing against forestry. I have nothing against logging. It has been the lifeblood of the community that made me who I am, and supported people I know and love (and some I don't care for so much, I admit.)

What I can't and couldn't ever ignore, yeah, even while I was sweeping up the damp rich sawdust for fifteen bucks an hour, is the ways in which it has been pursued. And now, finally, the bats are coming home to roost, and it will be decades before the province and the industry recovers. Next time, maybe, they'll do it right. If there is enough fossil fuel left to do it, and any communities left to work there.

So what's happening on the ground? Two years ago, when I last visited Canada, I drove a rented car from Vancouver the 1100km north to Fort Saint James. There were stretches of a hundred kilometres and more where every tree that lined the highway on either side, once stately and evergreen and immutable, was the dull reddish brown of standing deadwood. It was a terrible thing to see. My mother, who was mayor of Fort Saint James for 14 years and still lives there, painted a pretty gloomy picture when we last talked. Of the 4 lumber mills that have provided most of the economic steam to run the community for decades, two are out of business, and one, run by the native community, is limping along with about 50 employees. Young families are leaving in droves. Real estate prices are plummeting, and houses are standing empty. Last year was one of the best ever for tourism, and that will hopefully never change, but other towns in less beautiful areas are in the process of drying up and blowing away.

Trees take decades to grow in Northern British Columbia. The good times are not going to come back any time soon.

I don't pay much attention to goings-on in Canada. I don't know how much attention is being paid to this. I suppose people are too worried about the coming real estate bust in the cities. I suppose the economic boom and environmental nightmare of the oil sands in Alberta offers some distraction. I don't know. But what I am sure about is that my hometown is dying.

I have mixed feelings.

The forests will come back. The forestry industry and government will, we can only hope, learn some lessons. People will relocate -- Canada is a nation of migrants -- and towns will shrink and maybe disappear. It's probably just wishful thinking, but it would be nice to think that things will shift toward a real attitude of sustainability and stewardship.

No matter how it all plays out, a lot of people will be hurt in the process. It takes a lot of good to outweigh the pain that the end of a way of life brings.

It's happening all over the world. They say change is good. They say a lot of stuff.

Update: The news is that a local (-ish) company has taken over the largest mill in Fort Saint James, the one that closed a year ago. They are aware and resigned to the fact that they will lose money for a good while, but they are focused on the long-term. This is fantastic news for the town -- it means hundreds of jobs, and means the town will not dry up and blow away. Other towns may not be so lucky, but I am gratified that my hometown at least seems to be looking at a stay of execution.

Here's a pretty word cloud, in celebration:

3:19 PM | 14 comments and 1 trackback

When I was a teenager, I thought a lot about the end of the world. In particular, the rain of nukes that always seemed just around the corner. I was fascinated and terrified. I suppose that's not an unusual thing for kids that age, and might even have been the usual for m-m-m-my generation.

I grew up in the 70s, came of age in the early 80s. I was convinced that nuclear war was near-inevitable. I had no doubt that doddering dimwitted Ronald Reagan (read 'his handlers') and whichever doddering Soviet supremo was currently being propped up and jerkily animated with electric current (read 'his handlers') were going to blow the crap out the world. I dreamed about it. I can remember a grand total of one wet dream from my pubescent years; I can remember literally dozens of atomic holocaust dreams.

I remember Helen Caldicott and her Canadian-made If You Love This Planet. They showed it to us in high school. I remember the TV movies Threads and The Day After. Two and half decades after seeing Threads, I still remember the camera lingering on the puddle of urine at the woman's feet as the mushroom clouds rose. I watched The Road Warrior when it was first released. I remember reading A Canticle for Leibowitz. I sucked up all the '50s bomb-shelter paranoiac sci-fi juvenilia I could get my mother to buy for me at the bookstores on our shopping trips to the nearest city. I read what little I could find about the growth of the Cold War arsenals. It was... a hobby of mine.

Not that I was the archetypal Weird Kid or anything, muttering head-down through greasy locks about the 'end of the world'. I had normal hobbies, too: comics and computers, swimming and biking, booze and friends' fast cars. Girls. I showered regularly. But I did dream a lot about the end of the world.

And they weren't all nightmares by any means. See, I grew up in a tiny town more than 1000 kilometers north of Vancouver. I was completely confident that when the bombs fell, we'd be safe and secure. When I was in Grade 5, my gifted-group teacher had had a meteorologist boyfriend who'd lent me (and the other smart kid they'd cut from the herd to study what and how we liked) his weather maps. I'd learned about the prevailing wind currents of north-central British Columbia. We'd be all good when the balloon went up. The nearest mushroom cloud might sprout and rain its deadly ash 500km away, at worst, accidental mistargetings notwithstanding, and leave us basically unscathed

We had moose and squirrel salmon, we had farms and ranches, we had endless forest. Fruit might get a little scarce, but hell, I didn't much like fruit anyway. My house had a deep well, and the lakes and rivers were sweet and clear. Nuclear winter? No worries. We lived through -45°C spells every damn year. We'd get by. Let the mad bastards down south kill each other off en masse. We'd be the inheritors of the earth, us hardy northern canucks, ululating our diesel-powered ways down out of the arboreal wastes, antlers strapped to the hoods of our Barracudas and pickup trucks, to rebuild things in our own Royal Reserve-powered image. Proud Canadians. There'd finally be some kind of payoff for living 40 miles up the asshole of the earth for so many years.

Armageddon didn't seem like such a bad thing. Not the best result in a lot of ways, sure, but Ouroboros the world-turd was spinning at the bottom of the bowl, anyway. Time for cleansing holy nuclear fire! It'd be a shame, all those innocent people getting torched, but we kept reading how overpopulation was going to kill the planet even if the nukes didn't.

So talk these days of a coming economic armageddon with Ground Zero in America's bubble have actually put me in a nostalgic mood. Headlines like China threatens 'nuclear option' of dollar sales take me right back to 1982. Media tidbits like Jim Cramer's recent howling monkey-boy histrionic meltdown -- 'It's Armageddon out there!" have fascinated me in the kind of way that (metaphorical) nuke-porn did back in the day.

It's far from certain, of course, that the blow up is going to happen, or even that things will fall apart. But I've been watching the whole thing for years now, after decades of conditioned ignorance about economics, and the New Great Depression feels as likely to me as nuclear tennis did back in the early '80s.

Then again, that didn't end up happening, did it? There's some comfort in that, I guess.

A comment from the perspicacious Malor in a recent Metafilter thread (among many others about the subprime mortgage mess, the yen carry trade, the liquidity dry-up, and all the rest) lays out genesis of the worst case scenario pretty well, I think. Is it a Minsky Moment? Yeah, probably.

Malor said:

We should have gone into a horrific recession after the stock market bubble popped in 2000. The size of that bubble was far bigger than the one in 1929, so the consequences should have been even more severe... something on the order of severity of the Great Depression, although I think a 1970s-style stagflation writ large was the likeliest outcome.

What happened instead is that the Fed panicked and hit the liquidity button, flooding the system with incredibly cheap money. New money chases inflation, and causes more of it, so it went into housing, and then people started leveraging themselves up into massive debt to buy more of it.

Bubbles have been called the fiscal equivalent of a nuclear weapon; the only way to avoid the fallout is by not having one in the first place. The stock market bubble was a huge deal, though probably survivable.

But the Fed, which set off the original bubble with easy money, tried to fix the fallout with more of the same medicine that got us sick in the first place. To stop the fallout from one atomic bomb, they set off two fusion weapons instead.... and we didn't even dodge the fallout from the first bomb, we just delayed it. The explosion of the other two bombs just sent the fallout into orbit, but it's still up there, and we're still gonna eat every rad.

At the very least, we're going to have a full generation of very hard times, tougher than anything in living memory. I think we will be exceptionally fortunate if the United States continues to exist as the same legal entity.

In terms of likely outcome, my operating theory is that we'll go into a short-term deflationary crunch, but the Fed will open the floodgates and send us into an inflationary death spiral. Not just nasty horrible stagflation for two decades like we would have had from the Y2K pop, but an actual hyperinflationary death spiral for the dollar.

With fiat currency, I just don't think a true deflationary collapse is possible... although with the unbelievably massive leverage in the derivative positions, I suppose it could happen. Money could be destroyed from debt default faster than the Fed can lend new dollars into circulation.

There's one name you should remember in the coming crisis: Greenspan. This is all his doing. His refusal to ever allow a recession, ever, led us directly into this mess. He never met a problem he couldn't cover up with liquid paper.

I think Malor might be overstating the case when he talks about a generation of hard times. On the other hand, if China pulls the economic trigger, he might be understating it.

Anyway, the winds taste the same to me because as the tension builds I'm once again far from the places where the corpses will litter the ground if and when the hammer falls. Two and half decades ago I was in the far north of Canada, confident that we'd be able to sustain ourselves while the rest of the world went to hell. Now I'm in Korea, and if economic armageddon happens, once again I'm not directly in the line of fire. Once again, if it all goes to hell, I'll feel sorry for all the people (even the stupid ones who went for their two year no-money-down teaser-rate no-declare ARM mortgages for a McMansion they knew they couldn't afford) who lose it all. The rich will make it through, as they always do, this time with Bushy legislation and offshore accounts rather than hardened bunkers and hidey holes.

Well, I like to say I'll feel sorry about the end of days. I said to myself when I was 17 that I'd be sorry about all those crispy corpses down in CanadAmerica South. But not entirely sincere the sentiment, I have to admit, then or now. The truth is, of course, in some ways, on some days: I think I'd feel like pumping my fist, taking a deep breath, and shouting 'That's what you get for shortsighted greed and systematic stupidity, you bastards!' Or more succinctly, 'cause my wind is not what it once was, 'Suck it, dummies!'

I'm a bad man that way. Or part of me is and was, at least.

Bad things are going to happen to the Korean economy, certainly, if and when America's economy goes tits-up and takes the rest of the world with it. But if I lived in North America, if I was mortgaged to the hilt, if I was living from paycheck to paycheck, I'd be a lot more worried about it than I am here in Korea with my life savings in won and no debt.

Maybe we ought to buy some gold, though.

So I am back where I was when I was young -- a cleansing fire might just be what's needed to clean out the corruption and cauterize the wounds. Part of me almost looks forward to it. I'm not sure if I really believe that, or if it's just the romantic teen I was surfacing again for a last misanthropic gasp before he goes down into that dark cold water for the last time.

Either way: armageddon schadenfreude. It's not just a good name for a postmodern superhero.

[Update: more background material and some excellent explanations of the IMPENDING DOOOOOOOM in this MeFi thread.]

6:36 PM | 9 comments

[Some of this seemed to crystallize for me after listening to Bruce Sterling's excellent talk at SXSW 2007. So thanks to him, and you know, grain of salt.]

We grew up watching. If you're 50 or 40 or 30 or younger, you've spent thousands of hours watching. You still watch -- you watch on YouTube, or you watch your DVDs, or you watch the TV. Maybe you use a PVR to timeshift yourself so that you can watch on your own schedule, congratulate yourself on cheating the advertisers, denying them the eyeballs they crave. Maybe, like me, you fire up bittorrent on boot, and swarmload all your video automagically from the RSS feeds of illicit darknet bulletin boards.

Howl Twitter (with abject apologies to Allen Ginsberg)

I saw the best posters of my generation destroyed by politics, commenting hysterical naked,
scrolling themselves through the n-word threads at dawn looking for a snarky fix,
trucker-hatted hipsters burning for the cheapest DSL connection to the bitwise dynamo in the datastream of night,
who pizza and tater-tots and poopsocking and high sat up typing in the supernatural whiteness of rented condos surfing across the tubes of internets contemplating porn,
who bared their breasts on MySpace under fake names and saw Mohammedan bombers threatening in video streams illuminated,
who played through universities with radiant eyes hallucinating Second Life and Warcraft tragedy among the scholars of war,
who were banned from the websites for crazy & posting batshitinsane on the Windows™ of the Bill,
who farted in unshaven rooms in underwear, tossing their tissues in wastebaskets and listening to the Terror on CNN...

Watching and being watched has started to feel like the default human state in these mediated days. You know how characters in video games will go into their idle animation if you wait too long to interact with them? Yeah, like that. Unwatched, they nonetheless go through the motions as if they were.

The last half a century or more is remembered, at least by me, as a succession of moving images -- lumpy raspberry red Kennedy brains sprayed out across the trunk of the convertible, phallic twin towers collapsing like nationscale erectile dysfunction. Watching makes manifest our reality, makes more real our memory. Two or three generations now, we've been immersed eyedeep in it. Hawkeye Pierce and Fonzie, they're signifiers of my childhood as evocative to me as cold lake water and the northern lights. If you spend as much time on the internet as I do, if you're one of the geek-approved flavour of obsessive-compulsives we call 'early adopters', if you've bought a big flat panel TV or covet HD video, if your appetite for bandwidth is insatiable, if you feel compelled to buy ever more complex mobile phones, you're probably in the same boat as me. You swim in the same advertising cesspool in which our media meals float -- eyeballs watch, watching is intentional, intention means awareness, awareness is all when someone wants something from you or when you want something from them. Tree falls in the forest, but it doesn't matter shit unless somebody's watching. We're Schrödinger and his cat, both at the same time.

If you live in London, your picture is taken 300 times a day, but not because someone want to sell you something. You're being watched, and you're meant to feel safe.

We've had another lesson drummed in to us, too, it seems; one that cuts in the other direction. It's a weak inverse solipsist lesson we felt in our bones from the time we were toddlers, of course: you've seen it on America's Funniest Home Videos, maybe. The child falls, howls while the parents with the camera are looking at him and pointing the camera. They move off, out of sight -- the observing eye umbrated -- and the child quiets, sniffs, draws shuddery breath, and follows. As soon as he knows he is once more in the range of the observer's gaze, he busts out into full wails again.

Here: It's easier for you to watch the video than for me to explain it. Watch.

Our thoughts, our feelings, our selves are never as real as when someone else is observing them.

So we used to make home movies, we took Polaroids, we sent cards to distant relatives at Christmas so we'd be alive in their minds. It's a natural and a human impulse. Hell, we painted on the walls of Lascaux. With the technology at hand, we were only able to do it occasionally. We laughed at the Japanese tourists back in the 1970's who lugged cameras around and photographed everything. Remember those jokes? Me, I'm in some Japanese family's album somewhere because they asked me in pantomime to pose with them, back in 1976 in Banff, presumably because I was wearing a sweatshirt with a big red maple leaf and Olympics logo.

We're rubberneckers slowing down to peer at the wreckage flung from the dizzying welter of 'reality TV' programs, where it is purported that we are watching ordinary people raised up or struck down by our collective whim or their own strengths and failings, willing participants watchers and watched alike, sanctified and made flesh by the power of our collective gaze. American Idols are made of people! Barechested rednecks are hilarious and a little sad, reminding us of what me might have been, at least on Cops. Oh, man, that's clever: those fat bastards on the Biggest Loser aren't really losers at all, are they? It goes on and on.

[ripper] I told u I was hardcore

Larger than life as we bask in the collective gaze starts to feel like a necessary platform of life services to achieve Normal, to stand out from the undifferentiated herd in the way that we've been told we should by companies who want us to buy their products. But buying those jeans whose commercials identically mass-marketed the promise of individualist flair to everybody just doesn't carry the same cachet any more for us media-steeped folks. We've gotten too smart and self-aware for that, some of us.

Bud: Look at 'em, ordinary f--king people, I hate 'em.

And so online journals like this very one you're reading right now, and the canonical cheese sandwich post. So weblogs, where what we've seen is posted, so that others can see it, and then go and see the thing seen. So audioscrobbling. So Second Life. So YouTube. So MySpace. So Flickr, where we can upload cellphone pics minute-by-minute, if we want. So Odeo and Twitter. So new, so immediate: so we spread the minutiae of our minute-to-minute existence out over the wires, so that others -- someone -- will notice and pay attention. We are alive to reality when we watch, we feel more real when we are paid in the attention-currency of attentive eyes.

I'm thinking it's a new pornography of the self. We willingly prostitute our privacy, and we accept payment in the form of attention. We always have, of course. But the slickly sexy 2.0 toolset we have makes it so effortless, and the reward such a crackpipe hit of Warholian fame, that it's hard to know when to stop. We become gleeful self-pornographers.

The word originally signified any work of art or literature depicting the life of prostitutes. Though pornography is clearly ancient in origin, its early history is obscure because it was customarily not thought worthy of transmission or preservation. Nevertheless, in the artwork of many historic societies, including ancient India, ancient Greece, and Rome, erotic imagery was commonplace and often appeared in religious contexts. The Art of Love, by Ovid, is a treatise on seduction and sensual arousal. The invention of printing led to the production of ambitious works of pornographic writing intended to entertain as well as to arouse. In 18th-century Europe, pornography became a vehicle for social and political protest through its depiction of the misdeeds of royalty and other aristocrats, as well as those of clerics, a traditional target. The development of photography and motion pictures in the 19th and 20th centuries contributed greatly to the proliferation of pornography, as did the advent of the Internet in the late 20th century.

And as we do so, we live less in the actual moment, perhaps, less with the actual people around us. We don't need to seek out people to be with us here, to be our audiences: if we post, they will come, or at least their eyes will, we hope. Do we lose more than we gain? I don't know the answer to that.

Maybe I'm just an old curmudgeon. I don't use instant messaging and other 'presence apps', I don't carry a cell phone. I have no desire for people to know what I'm doing and when, and I don't care to be at anyone's beck and call when I am enjoying being alone. Or any other time, for that matter.

I certainly don't think that it's all bad, all this Twittering and Flickring, all this eyeball mongering. I have nothing against prostitution, in principle. But we may underestimate what it's done to us, and what it's doing. And I wonder what it will mean for people who have never known anything different.

[Update: Hey, Bruce liked my Ginsberg repurposing! And so the circle is complete.]

6:02 PM | 10 comments and 1 trackback

You know what? I'm a little weary of hearing about your conferences, your camps, your cozy cash-on-the-barrelhead confabs.

I don't want to know what web-shaking new thoughts percolated through the sponsored-by-Starbuck's IRC backchannel while some Internet Smellovision™ rep droned and powerpointed onstage. I don't really need to see more Flickr pictures of grinning gaggles of bloggers glistening with teraflopsweat, a little too eager to prove that they socialize in other venues besides World of Warcraft.

Don't try and tell me that 'business weblogs' or 'the business of weblogs' are anything but business. Go ahead and do your business. Make your money: we've all got to. Convene with your peers and drive your value propositions down the ROI highway. It's all good. We're lucky if we can make a living doing something we love. But if what you do and what you say in this shared textual space of ours is about selling something, then it's about selling something. Don't bullshit us. Lines blur; everything gets a price tag slapped on it.

I'm not looking at your ads, and there's no way I'm clicking them, unless I'm right-clicking on them to add them to my Adblock list, and I'm cursing you for making me go through that small tribulation.

Then my nose opens up and the fingers begin to flex when I read again how you were talking to that netfamous guy about this other well-known weblog guy, because that's what famous internet guys do -- they network. They do it publicly, and dignify it by calling it 'conversation'. Networking obviates the need for latex gloves while giving a socialmedia reacharound.

Conversation as intercourse. Intercourse as commerce. You know somebody's getting f--ked. I think it might be us. Ad copy tattoed on our lover's forehead, and we're so inured to it that we don't even notice anymore. We're trying to make love in the middle of the marketplace, but we're just getting screwed.

Conferences are where salesmen go. Because that's what salesmen do -- they network. They sell. They place ads where we'll see them, so they can sell us something. Salespeople. Salespersons, I guess. Salors and salestresses. They sell. Lomans, not shamans.

We've got the salesman archetype etched into the cultural DNA by now -- we see cheap suit a little sad, a little desperate, the armpit-stained Flying Dutchman of the strip malls. We hear faux-friendly NLP-creepy patter, we cringe, even if we're not sure why. Salesman selling something at us makes our sphincters tighten in a pre-fight-or-flight reflex. Does mine, anyway. And thanks at least in part to the blithely worshipful way that your average blogjockey has of beating the bones together at the foot of the Google Monolith, Adsense has infiltrated our online culture, has made slightly sad dry-haired Holiday Inn revenants of all of us, trapped in a coach seat next to some guy trying to sell us some shit we don't need, waiting to get a word in edgewise so we can sell him some shit he doesn't want.

My god, it's full of ads! Ads by Goooooooooogle. There's something hidden in that inviting string of 'ooooooooooo's waiting to be teased out by a modern day steganographic Nostradamus. While making his 'o' face.

(Yeah, I flog Dreamhost here, and I run Adsense on one of my other sites. I've become as guilty of this sort of whoring as the next poor rube. I'm squatting as deep in the shit as you are, pants around my ankles, 'raising the level of discourse'.)

But look: all of the conference references, all the logrolling backscratching insular techmeme circlejerk, all of the third-column index page stacks packed with the javascripty fruit of the Adsensorium, the 120-pixel hello-surfer come-ons... well, it's enough already.

'But wonderchicken, my cranky friend,' you may well object. 'If you don't like it, just stop reading it! Nobody's holding your feet to the fire here. Let those who can and want to spend their time and money sitting in threadworn conference centres with others of their adoptive sept and clan do so, and do not begrudge them their participation in the Monetary Blogdustrial Complex. It is an Engine of The New Economy! It is a bitwork bulwark against the Old Media Hegemony, from which we can together launch our Social Media Enfilade! A rising tide of advertising and self-promotion lifts all boats! We need the evangelists and the shills to Get The Word Out! The Long Tail will always be there wagging the Big Dogs, rich strata of abandoned and automated weblogs, linkfarms and pr0n, and lonely people bellowing out across the virtual rooftops to their audiences of search bots, googlenauts and bemused relatives. The human experience, made hyperlinked. Google will index it all, and get rich on the carrion-clicks that it sells to the office cubicle fools who Aren't Us! It's a Brand® New Day!'

Yeah, I know. But I felt like I needed to launch a barbaric yawp into the aether, because I miss it sometimes. And these things can be bad for you if you just let them build up inside. Hi Dave!

5:16 PM | 5 comments and 1 trackback

Google, despite the fact that they are clearly the evolutionary precursor of the Borg or Skynet or the Matrix or whatever Evil Tech Hive Mind your dystopian leanings favour, can be instructive and educational as well as entertaining and terrifying.

From the inquiry into the global zeitgeist below

we learn, for example, that

• Bermuda goes positively apeshit over Coke, but has no interest in Pepsi
• New Zealand is also a Coke Nation, but hasn't yet completed the Pepsi drinker genocide
• Canadians don't care much about the minute differences between sugar water brands, but are fond of bum
• ...but not nearly as fond of it as the Kiwis
• Suprisingly, perhaps, Commonwealth nations are keener on the buttsecks than Americans

In today's globalized economy, borders become transparent to markets, and death is once again a spectator sport, with images shot 'round the globe in realtime to Feed The Need™. Civilization is sooo cool, man! It's mashup time, and you get to choose whether you want to eat that mash with fork or spoon, because the Customer Is Always Right.

Of course, it is entirely possible that there is no Spoon, and we're all Forked.

Share and enjoy.

2:37 PM | 5 comments

I was somewhere between point A and point B, as I had been for most of the decade in question. For most of my life, when it came to it.

Wait, that's not the way to start it. Let me try again.

I've never been as fascinated by sex as most people seem to be, but there was a lost few days that I remember....

No, that's not how I want to tell this story either.

One more time.

There was this girl in high school. She was attractive, splendidly put together, but clumsy somehow. Unpopular, invisible. And smart. Too smart, and too interested in making sure that people knew it. Me, I was smart too, but I spent as much time as possible trying to rebrand it, at least to those elements of the cabal that didn't appreciate that kind of thing. I was as kind to her as I was to most people, because I was a nice guy, especially when I was sober, even as I was limping unsuccessfully after other, unobtainable young women, stealth erection tucked down my leg.

Most of a decade after high school, I had decanted myself back into the Old Home Town after a time drinking and sailing in Mexico, skinny tan squinty pickled and worldy-arrogant, and we met again, and drank together, and she was magnificent. Gorgeous, and grace had replaced teen clumsiness. Apparently, she'd been in teenage love with me. Oh.

We screwed like minks on the floor at the foot of her parents' bed after the bar closed. Her parents were in a nearby town dealing with the aftermath of her grandmother's death, which was why she was also back in town. It was one of those things that happen, and it was nice, and fleeting. And hotter than hell, I tell you now.

Months later, and I was making my way back down to the big city. I'd saved a couple of thousand dollars working mill and was ready to buy a ticket out again, to wherever. Wherever had treated me pretty damn well before. She'd left an open invite to come and stay with her, anytime, and I decided to take her up on it.

That's where the whole 'I've never been dick-led' thing that I mentioned comes in. I didn't love her, sex was a thing that I liked but didn't crave: I didn't know what the f--k, but I was 20-something, and I wanted to walk through whatever doors opened up in front of me, on principle if nothing else. And that illicit carpet sex had been... good.

So I rolled into her town on the Greyhound, called her, and she picked me up, and we went to the liquor store, and she bought half a dozen bottles of liquor, and we went to her house, and we f--ked a lot.

We drank -- or, mostly, I drank, at the arborite-and-aluminum table in the kitchen of her small, neat apartment -- and then we f--ked. Mornings, she went to work, and I stayed, and wrote, and smoked, and waited until the afternoon to drink again. I don't remember eating during those 4 or 5 days but I suppose we must have.

It wasn't love driving the lust, which was a new thing, at least for me. It was an echo of love for her, maybe, a salute to an unrequited one a decade old. It was good for both of us, I supposed and I liked to think, in completely different ways.

The night before I left -- and this was the memory that started me telling this story, this story I couldn't figure out how to start, and now, having started, have reservations about telling its denouement -- it was Saturday night and Canada-cold, we were drunk as lords, and I was going down on her, and her muscles were a-twitch and her transported. I was proud as hell that I was making her come. I'd never known a women before who had her own apartment and all.

As the orgasm rolled over her, she let a massive fart out on my chin. It was a ripper. I took it with aplomb -- I had at least a bottle of scotch in me -- and looked up after it had finished, over the smooth terrain of her belly. Staring at the ceiling, as the muscles on the insides of her thighs quivered and quieted against my ears, she said "I didn't get to see my grandma before she died."

We drank some more that night after we got dressed. I left the next day, and we parted friends.

I don't know what this story means, but the memory came to me tonight as I drank my beer, and I thought I'd tell it, because I miss writing shit down sometimes.

9:44 PM | 13 comments

For some reason, this post from a few years back -- Uncle f--ka Exegesis -- has been getting hits like a proper weblog motherf--ker lately. Not as much as the weirdly-popular-in-Europe Web 2.0 Bullshit Generator, but pretty damn close.

I re-read the exegesis for the first time in a long time just now, and I'm kind of thinking it's the best damn thing I've ever written. Then again, I am drinking beer because tomorrow's Buddha's Birthday -- that bastard -- and I'll admit that the juice might possibly have coloured my perception and delaminated my judgement.

I'm still on the road, though, and I'm still gunning for the Buddha (that bastard). That's got to count for something.

Anyway, sometimes I make myself laugh. Your mileage may vary, as they say in the halls of power, those petrol weasels, them.

11:50 PM

This is about something I love. Not as much as beer, perhaps, but more than a hell of a lot of other things.

Maybe 6 months ago I was trolling one of the private darknet sites where I get my bittorrents, looking for something new to download, watch, and delete, as usual. All that fat pipe Korean bandwidth going to waste is a crying shame, and I do my best to keep it humming, and make sure that the carbon doesn't build up in the virtual valves. The Korean government gets a big wet kiss from me for their policy of relentlessly ramming bandwidth down the throats of their citizens (and the scruffy no-account foreigners who squeak in through the cracks), if not for many of the other decisions they stumble into.

So I was 4 or 5 pages deep in the movie forum, and there it was, with only a couple of peers on the torrent so far. I swear, my heart skipped a beat. I caught a whiff of those dusty sun-pummelled rocks of Southern California, and the rich stink of bubbling road-tar. A few notes of the theme song. An fleeting image of perfectly conical 1963-era brassiere-bound breasts. A shiver of the joyous goofiness of life's meaningless serendipity. I hadn't thought about the movie in decades, probably, media-starved and nomadic as I'd been during my wanderyears. It was, without exaggerating, one of the formative films of my young life. It helped make me the man I am today. I fired up the torrent and whispered a breathy 'woo hoo', so as not to wake up She Who Must Be Obeyed, and the downstream rate nudged its way up past 400KB/s.

The movie was "It's A Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad World".

Let me tell you about how this movie lodged itself so deeply in the crenellations of my brain. I warn you, there may be some adult concepts and situations involved, though. What else do you expect from the wonderchicken?

I started babysitting when I was maybe 10 years old, I guess. I didn't do it much, and only for some friends of the family who had two kids about 7 or 8 years younger than me. I'll call them the Potters. Mostly it was a New Years Eve thing, when my parents would go out with Mr and Mrs Potter and get smashed and celebratory at whatever parties were happening in our little town. At that point, they were almost ten years younger than I am now, which makes me feel a little wobbly when I think about it.

Anyway, it was the New Year's Eves I remember the most. I probably had a good run of 5 years or so before I got old enough that I wanted to start going out myself and getting loose on illicitly-acquired booze on December 31st. But I didn't mind doing the babysitting one bit during those years. Mr Potter, you see, had something that my father didn't (or had hidden too damn well for me to find, much as I tried).

The porn.

Out in plain site, tucked into the accordion sidepocket and jammed down alongside the seat cushion of his chestnut-brown naugahyde recliner. In a messy pile mixed in with the TV guides and local newspapers on the floor. The thing was, it was almost all textporn, and I discovered it by accident, out of boredom. I don't even know if the genre even exists anymore -- cowboy novels with long, long stretches of pure high-octane sex. I still remember the night when I first found it. I was sitting in the recliner with a bowl of salt and vinegar chips on the folding TV-dinner table beside me, and I pulled out one of the broken-backed paperbacks that was jammed between the cushion and the armrest. Like all of the others I read over the ensuing years in that house, the cover featured a long-haired, spectacularly-bosomed woman, mostly clothed but inevitably dishevelled in a long dress, with a gunslinger, whitehat or black, posed like an action figure, guns metaphorically out. This paperback was totally flat, open about midway through, and when I scanned a few paragraphs, something went 'boing' in my head, if not right away in my pants.

Keep in mind this was the mid1970's, and I was only about 10 or 11. The only naked women I'd seen had been in the couple of low-rent skin mags that other boys had somehow purloined and brought into school, or that I'd literally stumbled upon in the woods. There wasn't an internet, and we had no movie theatre, and only two channels on the TV, video rentals didn't exist. Porn was an as-yet unexplored frontier. A different world than we live in today, where 9-year-olds are sending each other goatse links.

I wonder now if my eagerness around that time to go and babysit for the Potters seemed a little odd, somehow. I wonder too if my love for words grew at least in part out of these intense early textfests. I know where my love of the road came from.

I was a big reader already at that age, but the rare sex scenes in my vast mom-sponsored collection of science fiction were like whale-oil candles to this nuclear blast of meat. It went on for page after page of sucking and nibbling and grunting and heaving and cowpokery. I was boggled.

How on earth does this tawdry little tale connect with "It's A Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad World", you ask? Well, that was the movie that, for some reason, our nearest CTV affiliate station played in its long form as the late show every single New Year's Eve in those days. Like begging my folks to let me stay up for the Sean Connery Bond movies, or the Sunday afternoon double-shot of Disney and Bugs Bunny, it had assumed a kind of ritualistic significance for me.

I loved the movie regardless -- it was shown at other times during the year, and I'd seen it half a dozen times by that point anyway -- but it played so regularly as the background soundtrack to the pure unalloyed joy of smacking my weiner around like a pinata at a fat kid's birthday that they eventually merged into twin double-happiness somehow, back in the root of my pubescent lizard brain.

For the first couple of years I sat in the Potters' living room, though, it was just about the unlimited cola and snacks. I had a quick scan of whatever cowboy porno was laying around the living room occasionally, and there had been some interesting stirrings in the groinal region, sure, but around the time I turned 12, it all started to change.

I recall the moment at which curiosity and a feeling of general naughtiness blossomed into a full-blown vocation. Long after the kids had been put to bed, of course, mind you. Most of the time they'd already been put to bed before I even showed up, and the house was mine from the get-go.

Over the previous year or so, things had been getting cramped in my jeans when I was doing my late-night study of Mr Potter's novels, and I'd taken to letting myself out for some air, if you take my meaning. And, you know, I'd discovered in the fullness of time that giving myself a bit of an aimless rub once in a while was a pretty pleasant thing, too.

But one night, on New Year's Eve, it was, the damn thing just went off. Like a geyser.

Nobody could have been more shocked and surprised than I was, once my eyes rolled back down out of my head. I guess I must have known this sort of thing happened -- I'd been reading those damn cowboy books during my babysitting sessions for a year or two by that point -- but that was different than having it actually happen to me. And of course, "It's A Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad World" was playing on the TV in the corner, beside the dried-out Christmas tree.

The rest of that night I'll slide a diffusion lens of modesty over, but suffice it to say that I could barely walk on January 1st. I'd discovered something that would occupy a lot of my free time over the next few years.

Until I saw that torrent file for The Movie, I'd almost forgotten about the supporting role it played in my sexual awakening, not as fodder, but as refractory-time wallpaper.

I don't think my slightly irrational love for the movie is entirely about the sexual imprinting, necessarily. The movie itself is not especially sexualized for me. And these days, I don't much care for cowboy novels or brown vinyl recliners, nor do salt and vinegar potato chips give me spontaneous erections. There's much to love about the movie, I think, and it's become like an old friend long-lost and remade for me in the six months since I've downloaded it. Somehow it takes me back to a time when new worlds were opening wide, full of possibilities. Sex and the road, out there in front of me.

I remember how that seeing that arid Californian desert, so alien to me and so clean, how seeing those cars race through it set up resonances in my brain that I couldn't explain. That I still can't, for that matter. How the movie made me laugh. How it mixed with the heady fumes of newly-discovered sex, and filled me with an awareness that life was both utterly random and completely hilarious.

On some of those Friday nights at home since I've rediscovered the movie, when I've had my fill of beer and my reflexes have degraded too far to be much damn good in Rocket Arena 3, and I've sung along with a few Tom Waits songs, and am weary and hungry, I find myself firing up the movie and watching a few scenes. Imagining myself rakish and dissolute in a heavy steel-framed convertible with a woman in a satin gown, racing across the California desert towards the Big W. And I feel both rooted in a past that I frequently have difficulty remembering, and a little bit free.

But these days, at least, I keep my hands above the waistline.

10:46 AM | 4 comments and 1 trackback

I am a weblogger.

I am a man. I am an authority. I am hieratic. I am a drinker. I am a Canadian. I am an expatriate. I am somewhat inebriated tonight.

I am a spice without a sauce. I am a singer, I am a writer. I am a lover. I am a man who loves. I am happy and I am unsatisfied. I am content and I am angry. I am actively ignoring the present continuous in favour of the possible future simple. I am alive. I contradict myself.

I am growing old. I'm farting like a Captain of Industry. I'm hurting every goddamn day. I'm present perfect linking my patchwork history with this moment here, where the glass is in my hand. I've abused this strong big body of mine. I've moved people to tears. I've made them laugh. I've been completely wrong. I'm squeezing out the pus.

I am uncertain. I am defiant.

I am buoyed on foamy waves of ancient guitar. I am tired of the bullshit. I hope for the best. I'm averting my eyes.

I'm wasting my life. I'm in the moment. I'm teaching people that English has no future tense. I'm pretty sure there's no point. I am happy about that.

I am thirsty. I am hungry. I am so full of shit my blue eyes are brown.

I love. I rear up in anger. I love.

I need another beer.

10:23 PM | 6 comments and 1 trackback

Because weblogging, or 'writing online in reverse chronological order with permalinks because I heard that it's cool and you can make money for talking about cheese sandwiches and wheeeeee!' (as the kids are calling it these days), has become a bit dull, I've been hunting for newer, shinier things to mess around with.

Mostly, I've just ended up going back to Metafilter to play the grumpy curmudgeon with a heart of gold yet again, or lurking around the SA Forums, or desultory perusing of the [nsfw] uploads at Fipilele, or listening to streaming standup comedy. Or firing up Bloglines, seeing the 14000 unread items in bold, and just catching up with the new posts from people from the old blog neighbourhood (but not bothering to click through to their sites if they don't offer full excerpts) before closing the tab quicksmart. I don't listen to 'podcasts' (that word still makes me f--king gag, and I pronounce anathema the marketing-imprinted clownweiners who call it that. Which means I'm flipping the bird at pretty much everyone, which makes me the weird intense guy with the lazy eye passing out pamphlets on the street, again, I know. I know too that that was my schtick last year, but I'm nothing if not persistent), let alone give a rat's ass who the first person to suggest a double-byte framistat of the persistent reacharound attribute of the CDATA enclosure in the XML for version .09b of RDQ was. Hell, I'm a big old geek from way back, and I've written more than my fair share of code over the years, and I'm crotch-deep in that dirty old weblog water, but even I can't bring myself to care. 'course, I got nothing against other folks being interested in it. It's all good. But scrabbling to stake claims to a place in history, when it's the History Of Sweet Bugger-All, well, it seems like pointless self-promotion to me. And I thought we all agreed way back when that pointless self-promotion was what this whole weblogcasting thing was about from the get-go. So, ennui.

My solution? I've decided to invent a new game, guaranteed to amuse precisely no-one other than myself, probably. Which is usually the way my mind works, so I'm good with that. I've already been playing it for a while, though I didn't realize that until today.

I'll call it scatterblogging™, because that's the word that just leapt into my brain as I was typing this, and I trust my brain, at least when it's sober. What I've been doing, and what I think I'll continue to do, is this: when some amusing-to-me brainfart squeaks out through the old cerebral firewall, I'll launch a new blog, on Blogger or one of the myriad other services that make the hosting and broadcasting of brainfarts their business. I'll get maybe three, four good diurnal emissions off per day, I reckon. Maybe they'll be under one of my existing noms de keyboard, maybe not. Maybe they'll point back here maybe not. But one weblog per thought, one shot, that's it, post and forget, log it out close it down and move on. And whatever I do post, it'll be wonderchickeny.

There's a reason for it, though, beyond mere boredom. You see, when that divine spark suddenly and spontaneously lights up deep in the network and the internet itself shivers itself into self-awareness and emerges from the googleplex, bent on ad-sense vengeance, like an unholy butterfly from its chrysalis, those tiny seeds of wonderchicken will be scattered throughout its distributed mind. Tiny, embedded, sarcastic synapses. And when it begins to systematically exterminate the human race -- beginning, of course, with the advertisers, then moving on to the bloggers -- it'll pause, recognize me, and move on. The next stage of evolution, the conscious world network to come -- it will taste like chicken.

4:07 PM | 7 comments and 2 trackbacks.

You know when people say, "I turned 40 a little while back, and it got me thinking..."? and how you just want to smash 'em one in the face?

Well, I turned 40 a little while back, and it's been f--king with my mind.

I don't think my only problem is the artificial midlife milestone hanging millstone around my neck, though. And I don't suppose -- much as I admit to being overfond of myself and much as I am wont to declaim while in my cups in a way that would lead you to think that my problems are unique in this world -- that I'm alone in this.

I think your mind is probably twisting in the wind, too, dear reader, and there's cool piss dripping from your boots, too, and that rope is creaking above you too in the coming dark. I hope not, but I guess so. It's one of the few things we all share; we share the knowledge that we'll die, and we all fabricate elaborate strategies to face it, that or we turn our faces away from it. We dangle on the gibbets we build out of the decisions we make, until the sun sets on us.

You know the drill: cowboy, steel horse I ride, all that shit.

I used to say to people, people who often regretted asking me whatever innocuous question it might have been that launched me into my rant about death and taxes and the ineluctability of extropy or whatever rocks that evening's torrent had been bouncing over, I used to say that the biggest guiding principles by which I had lived my life thus far were two-fold. I'd say it just that way, too: "...they're two-fold..." Maybe I'd throw in a 'hellshitdamn' or two for spice. People must have really hated me, sometimes.

Anyway, this hand was that in some geriatric future I'd rather regret something I had done than something I hadn't, and that other hand was that I always wanted to have as many choices before me as possible, because once the game becomes a rail-shooter, it just isn't much goddamn fun anymore. Knocking those two rocks together with my two strong hands struck off the sparks that lit the fire in my belly every morning, huzzah!

And both hands, of course, were just heaped with prettyword bullshit. The first was a way to justify living always like a 22-year-old on a tear, and the second was a way to justify the 'external locus of self-control as a result of childhood bereavement' I'd self-diagnosed myself with back in university, and sumo'd out of the ring only to watch the f--ker waddle back again, pulling up its diaper and grimacing intently.

I love those old declarations of mine, I do. They still sing to me, sirens luring me limbs akimbo onto the rocks of rye, cocaine, hookers and tropical isles. I deftly navigated those shoals when I was young and clear of eye, but I'm not so sure I'd make it through safe this time. No, I've tied myself to the mast, have I, and it's the first mate who steers the ship these days. She's immune, you see. And she mostly steadfastly ignores my shouted commands, my entreaties and panting demands to be set free when the siren songs call me again. In this way, she keeps me alive, and I know that my struggles against my bonds are carefully gauged to be almost but not quite violent enough to free myself from them.

And so it goes, as the cliffs seem to rise around us, as we sail onward, me bearded and wildeyed calling for mead and wenches, bound to the mast, her drawn and sympathetic to my madness, but unshaken.

The death of some my convenient lies about myself has not in itself been enough to f--k me up. Barely enough to write about, to be honest, much as I lie about the awe with which I regard my magnificence. There's got to be more. But I guess I'll figure that out later. For now, it's good to be stringing words together again.

I hit post, now, dear lost readers in their thousands, not sure if this is resurrection or coda, but hoping a few diehard outliers of the wonderchicken army are still out there, and when their newsfeed ticks over from that limp and dusty (0) over to an erectile (1), that they'll put the word out: 'Wonderchicken returns, brethren and sistren! He returns! Dance dervish, and spill the blood of politicians in tribute and walleyed joy!'.

But having turned my back on the webs and the logs, on the adsense whores and their corporate pimps, having peed in the pool and pooped on the flag, having committed the unpardonable sin of dissing the digerati, I'm probably on the ignore list again.

Ah well.

Update : special reopening offer! Here's a poultrycast™ of this post, in user-friendly shrinkwrapped mp3 format. One per customer; available for a limited time only. Act now!

Update again : same crap, newfangled shiny package!

10:40 AM | 35 comments and 5 trackbacks.

Dave Winer says: "...all creative people must have some right to the work they create, or else, truly, the incentive to create will disappear. "

Now, I have no dogs in the fight, as they say, when it comes to copyright and the creative commons and Lessigophilia and all that revenue-generating jazz. I have no creative works, despite decades of making things because it amused me, either of words or pixels or pencil and ink or the ongoing ballet of the moments of my life, that are making me any money at all. More's the pity, I guess.

And I must admit that I have little but contempt for the law. I live the way I choose according to the dictates of my conscience, and where my choices conflict with the laws in a place I'm currently living, I make as an informed a decision as I am able as to whether conforming to the law in a given situation is something that it's more sensible to do from a strictly utilitarian perspective. Jail sucks. I know. I've been there. Ironically, it wasn't for breaking any laws, though.

For the most part, I am a law-abiding citizen, but not because I have any innate respect for the laws, or for those who made or enforce them. Where my choices do not conflict with the laws of the land, no worries. That's the way things usually are, because many laws, if not most, are relatively sensible. I understand some may find this kind of stance offensive, or sophomoric. I am unconcerned, if respectful of their opinions.

I regularly break laws by downloading copyrighted material. I have my reasons.

My argument with the phrase I've quoted from Dave above, finally, the one that a fortuitous combination of a good sleep and strong coffee has roused me from my customary lethargy to make, is this: I believe what he said is only correct if we alter 'the incentive to create will disappear' to 'the incentive to create things for money will disappear'. I risk going all broken-record, here, I know. But this fits mortise-and-tenon with some of the things I've been saying recently, about money, about monetarization, and about what some (most?) have been doing in this textspace of ours.

At the risk of committing the unpardonable sin of accidental synecdoche, I think that the phenomenon of weblogging, and the ways in which it has changed in the past couple of years as The Stupid Money rushed in to coca-colonize the new frontier, gives us our perfect example. Of the hundreds of thousands -- millions, if Technorati tells us the truth -- of people who have jumped all over this, and who are using the tools to do any of the heartcasting human constellation of different activities that we've drawn together under the 'weblogging' umbrella, only very recently have more than a tiny handful of them done it for the bucks.

Some are retrofitting revenue streams, sure. That's their prerogative, of course. Some people wear clothes with company logos plastered all over their chests, unironically, for free. They aren't as stupid as they are greedy and clueless, in my humble, but that's just me being a playa-hata, or whatever it is the kids are saying these days.

See, what I'm saying here is that most of these people had no 'incentive to create' other than the burning gods inside their foreheads, clawing to get out. Or merely the mundane urge to share photos of their cute kitties. Or their travel anecdotes. Or their code. Or their jokes or dreams or fantasies and half-baked ideas. Or links the neat websites they've found. They did it out of loneliness, or love of craft, or anger, or the carefully buried ludic urge we all share. Out of a desire to emulate their god. Because they wanted to.

I challenge you to think about the creative output of artists and artisans whose work has touched you. Think of your favorite books, your favorite paintings. That piece of handmade furniture or that gloriously handtooled little application. The music you listen to or the writers-on-the-web you read because they get into your heart and fill you with the ineffable, simple joy of being alive and having a mind. I wonder how many of them would have done their work whether or not they eventually got paid for it. My guess is 'most'.

I'm not saying that people shouldn't be paid. Hell, if I could get paid for making the things I make because there's something inside me that impels me to do it, I'd be thrilled. It'd be a dream come true, by crikey. But I do it, regardless. And so do you, probably, if you're reading this.

Money is a very useful thing, but then, so is defecation. Or, if you prefer 'How anal sex got to be THE ticket to blogging fame and fortune I don't fully understand...'

Take away the money, and you will still have people who are driven to create. This is what it is to be human. And, I'd submit, we'd have a lot less soulless sticky media poop clogging our minds and our souls if all of the hacks out there who oxymoronically ennoble their paid efforts by calling them 'creative product' would just do something useful instead for those sweet dollars. This is why I am in love with the idea of the 'mass amateurization of nearly everything', and it's why I push back against those who are snapping like bloody-snouted hyenas at the weblogging carcass in their unseemly urge to Get Noticed and Go Pro.

If you make money by selling the things that you are compelled to create -- writing or music or design or code or ceramic ashtrays or whatever it may be -- then good on ya. I'm genuinely happy for you. But if you would stop merely because you couldn't make a buck at it, well, tough shit. We don't need you. This is probably an unpopular opinion. Ah well.

The incentive to create will never disappear. But I would hail the departure of a world in which the incentive to create (for some) is predicated solely on one's ability to sell those creations, sure I would. When those who were left standing were there because they did it out of love, maybe they'd get a few more bones thrown their way.

And that's all I have to say about that, for the moment.

[Update: OK, that's not entirely all. This is interesting, and most definitely on-topic.]

1:26 PM | 15 comments and 2 trackbacks.

I'm sicker than a gut-shot monkey on the set of a Russ Meyer titty-spectacular, I'm boreder than a glory-hole sander at Bar Sinister in Amsterdam, I'm queasier than Buzz Aldrin chokin' down the buzzcut nitrogen punishment in orbit.

Whatever. I've been infected by self-important look-at-me wanktards* spurting their goofy podcast jism all over the blogobucket, so I got hammered and recorded my last post for posterity.

DOWNLOAD AND READ ALONG WITH THE WONDERCHICKEN (or die) [5Mb], MOTHERBASTERS!

*of which I am one, or else why would I do this?

Update: My old good friend the mighty Bearman

has taken the audio and backed it with some of his superb piano playing. The web is so damn cool. Thanks, man!

11:19 PM | 14 comments and 2 trackbacks.

Here's a story.

I'm smoking a cigarette, sweating, panting a bit, buzzed. I'm looking out to the north towards Horseshoe Bay, sorta leaning against my seat, straddling the bike, after climbing hard a-pedal most of the way up the hill from Spanish Banks to UBC. Out on the edge of the cliff, at the end of a little trail half a dozen metres from the road, in the bushes, private-like. The same place I usually stop for a smoke after doing the Big Circle. I'm... what? 21? Strong, young, full of juice and big ideas. Spotty, callow and dancing perilously close to full-blown alcoholism, too, but the world is my oyster, by god. You can f--k right off. I love you.

I'm wearing my Walkman, of course, because that thing has changed my life. I'm listening to Elvis Costello's King Of America, and he's singing

and it's the album that I love, right now. Women.

The sky is smeared with grey goth-lipstick clouds, as usual, but the blue is showing through, and I feel magnificent, looking at the mountains and the wrinkly sea, smoking my Player's Light. Fully oxygenated blood, full balls and, if not full volume, and least plans for full and frantic Friday night.

A raven -- big, black, alive -- lands with a thump and clink on my handlebars.

No sh-t. A f--king raven. It's like a foot and a half high, and it's right there, wabiggety baw!

I'm in that place, though. In that moment. I'm in the place that drugs only rarely managed to take me over the ensuing years, much as I tried.

So I calmly look the raven in the eye as it jinks around on the handlebars until it's facing me. It looks me in the eye. No, it f--king does, I'm serious. Not straight on, but with its head tilted a bit to my right, so it can really lay the eye on me. I don't know what to do, exactly, so I do nothing.

It checks me out, takes a minute or two, looks me up and down, jerkily, from crotch to crown, then flies off. I think to myself 'well, that was pretty cool', drop my earphones down around the back of my neck, pull out another cigarette, and think about the trickster god of the Kwakiutl and Haida and all the rest, their totem poles stolen and replanted just a few hundred metres away at the museum.

There's a rustle, another thump, a sudden grip and weight on my right shoulder.

The raven is back. It's perched on my shoulder. It's perched. On my. Shoulder. I turn my head slowly, and peer as best I can through the corners of my scratched, smudged lenses into the little black eyes. It sits on my shoulder, gripping tightly, and looks back at me.

I don't know what to do, exactly, so I do nothing.

And I turn away and look at the mountains again, and love the place I'm in, the body I'm in, the life I'm living. The raven stays with me for a few more minutes, enjoying the view, and then it leaves. Its wing flicks me in the right ear as it launches itself out into the void, over the edge of the cliff.

This really happened, in 1985 or so. I woke up this morning remembering it. It makes me proud, although I'm not exactly sure why.

8:08 PM | 14 comments and 2 trackbacks.

I can't stop thinking about this guy.

He's dead now, this guy.

Look at him, so calm, amidst the fury. But the water looks so clean, doesn't it? So much like the pure salt surf that I've always loved. Who was he? Did he make his living from the sea, there in Phuket? Was he a dive instructor, or a bartender? Did he rent umbrellas and chairs on the beach? Was he a tourist himself, from somewhere else entirely?

He looks so calm.

I've always had a relationship with water. My brother died in the water, and I spent all the years after that, in my subarctic hometown, snorkeling back and forth in that same water from a couple of weeks after the ice broke up until well after the leaves had all fallen. Looking for something.

I almost froze to death, on purpose, naked out on the ice of that same lake in the snow, one stupid teenage New Year's Eve long ago after I'd fought with my girlfriend, who I thought I loved enough to die for.

I've always been drawn into the water, in the sea, wherever I've been, from Wales to Fiji, when the waves were big. Stood there, always, pounding my chest, literally, and shouting into the teeth of it. Challenging it. You can't kill me, I was saying, every time. I love you, you can't kill me. Your power is my plaything.

Maybe this guy felt the same way, as he rode the chaos, as the tsunami washed him over the pool, across the grass, into the focus of some tourist's camera. Confident, exhiliarated.

But he died.

Him and what, today? 60,000 80,000 120,000 150,000 other people.

Words are.

Update : Apparently, he's alive![login:vanitas password:vain]

Mike Diack gives us more information inside. Thanks, Mike! It's silly, but somehow this guy became iconic for me of the whole incomprehensible tragedy. Holy sh-t. He's alive.

7:22 PM | 8 comments and 1 trackback

This stopped me in my tracks this evening, while a flood of rock and roll memories washed over me.

This :

I wonder if the sight of that piece of molded plastic ramps up in you the same welter of blurry, beery, hormonal reminiscences that it does in me. If you're pushing 40, and rocked out with your [insert gender-appropriate appendage here] out, and spent long nights at the stereo making offerings, making entertainment for your friends and lovers, thrilled by the fact that you could actually tear songs from those big black frisbees and rearrange them any way you wanted, if you spent weeks and months, years of your life swapping one Maxell after another into the cassette player of your patient buddy's Datsun F10, wiping off the rye you'd spilled, dropping your Player's Light on the carpet again, waiting for the hiss that marked the end of the leader and knowing to the 10th of a second when the first kerrang of that f--kin' kickass tune dude was going to swoop down and tweak your heart, if you remember that one night with a thermos full of vodka and pink lemonade as the snow fell like magic out of a sky that was so close and black and solid that you felt like the air was getting squeezed out of you, wearing red and white Santa gloves in the back seat of that big black fast '65 Barracuda with the first girl you'd ever really loved, the girl you still hadn't gotten up the nerve to tell, being tossed laughing to and fro as the car whipped around corners slick and roaring, if you remember sh-t like that now, then you know how I feel tonight.

Thanks to project c-90, via Mefi.

9:18 PM | 5 comments and 5 trackbacks.

Shelley says over here that 'there's something impersonal and dispassionate about anger." I know how well she writes, and how carefully, and so I've been turning over what she wrote, looking at it from different angles, trying to puzzle out what she meant. Can anger really be dispassionate? Is that what people mean when they talk about 'cold anger'? Could that be a bad thing?

I'm pretty sure anger is an energy, cold or hot. I remember being an angry punk, once upon a time. Well, more of a drunken yahoo of a punk, perhaps. Angry though, in between episodes of skipping around like a loon shouting about 'joy'. Regardless, I can't remember a time when I didn't feel rage welling up in me the moment I stopped to think about the glories of our civilization, and the wonder of our achievements.

Call in the airstrikes.

Still, I've always been the eternal optimist, sifting through the dung looking for a diamond, and I wandered all around this planet, wide-eyed, pushing myself to be childlike and unangry. A real hippie twat, basically. Trying to see the god within each and every person I met. Failing too often, succeeding far too rarely, flying my freak flag high. Peace, love and vegetable rights, man. Anger? Love! Rage? Peace!

That worked pretty well for a time, but the drugs probably helped more than I cared to admit.

I'm still expatriate, of course, and I still am unfailingly kind to people, until they cross me. Then, well, then I puff up and turn all the colours of a sunset, and browbeat them until they submit or go away. And then I get quickly unangry again. I'm like that.

I have never stopped being angry at hypocrisy and hate and stupidity and cupidity, either. And yeah, angry at the sinner as well as the sin. Turning the other cheek's all well and good for the meek, but I'm not going to be around to inherit the earth. I just don't have the patience. So, model citizen, me, right? Going around with a big red 'W' on my chest, fighting for the common man, righting wrongs and kissing babies.

f--k no. But the other thing that Shelley said, that 'anger is the ultimate camouflage for what's really going on in our heads and our lives' doesn't make sense for me, at least. Anger is the the natural and consequent reaction to taking a good hard look at our lives and the lives most of us are shoehorned into, through our own weakness and through the strength of others and through random dumbf--k chance, and realizing that we're going to die. Much too soon, each and every one of us. Ashes or wormfood, or, if maybe scraps for the birds to tear at. In anger, we reveal that we know there can be more, and wish for more, for better, for ourselves and others, and we also reveal that we are too bound by our own chemistry or history to do more than pound the bones and screech like apes before the monolith.

But that's OK.

Because the coin of anger rotating in the air, reflecting those glints of sunlight, has an ouroboros head as well as a tail. There is no anger, for me, at least, that is not backed an impulse similar to the one that some buddhists express when they perform a wai -- palms pressed together, fingers pointing skyward, with a shallow bow. I acknowledge the god within you.

Anger is peace, thwarted. Love, unrequited. The face of god, almost touched. The heartbreaking awareness that you (and so, all) just might not get there, wherever there might be. And ranging as it does in denomination, like our coin flipping up there in the air, the anger can be fire banked against the coming night, or a bolus of flaming tar catapulted at those who thwart the good.

But what the hell do I know? The written word is a lie, and it's possible that I'm just stringing together justifications for my rage, popcorn-garlanding words, holding up another mask, more for the fun of it than from any necessity. I found my own path. Quite possibly not the right one, but it's the one I found, and so that f--ker is holy to me.

There was a time when I was one of those Seekers After Truth that the hip, ironic-McDonald's kids tend to laugh at, often with good reason. Looking for some kind of truth outside myself, raging against the machine. Now I'm a model citizen, older and less convinced that any truth that could have any meaning for me lies anywhere outside myself and the threads that bind me to other people.

But I remain angry, and I maintain that that is the outward sign of my attempts to be honest with myself. It's my honesty with the rest of the world, and it's both personal and passionate.

I only speak for myself. Your mileage, as they say, may vary. That's cool.

5:22 PM | 2 comments

We spent the last couple of days AWOL from the Corporate Disneyland where we live, and ventured out into the Real Korea for the first time in a while. Jesus tapdancing popsicle-stick Christ, it's scary out there! Everything's dilapidated, dirty or broken, and that's just the stuff they bother to slap a new coat of paint on every decade or two.

On the upside, I'd forgotten about all the attractive young females -- not many of those around here in Chaebol City, Arizona. She Who Must Be Obeyed did notice my noticing, but by the time I regained consciousness, the wounds had already been stitched up, so it's all good.

A couple of chapters from the Modernization for Stupid People™ handbook that exemplify for me -- this weekend at least -- the Timeless Wisdom of The Korean People:

1) Build condos in one of the most beautiful places in the country, nestled deep in fragrant woods that in October begin to assume such a magnificent symphony of colour as to take the breath away, beside a lake, in the mountains. Then proceed to allow those condos to become filthy, dim animal caves, poorly lined with stained, grafitti'd wallpaper, reeking and unkempt. Ensure that nothing works, and that the cigarette burns in the cheap plastic bog-standard yellow floor-covering are unconcealed by any furniture, other than the lumpy bed in one corner. Make certain that the rooms, while being as depressingly drab and horrible and dirty as possible, cost more than US$100 per night, because you know the f--kin' proles got nowhere else to go. Laugh and laugh until you piss yourself, as the lucre rolls in.

2) Build tawdry eyesore asphalt chancres on the most attractive bits of coastline, buttress them with kiloton sprinklings of concrete tetrapods, and festoon the pleasure palaces gaily with buzzing, flickering neon and bellowing signage. Make sure there is plenty of opportunity for the whores to earn their trade, and make sure that tinny speakers howl out 24/7 the cookie-cutter '80s K-pop that gets the housewives a-rockin' while they're getting drunk and trying to forget what their husbands are doing. Because this is the coast, and the view is spectacular, build a raw fish restaurant underground, and make of the walls vast aquarium tanks, into whose murky depths you can peer, hoping to spy the algaed, parasite-riddled beast that will become your lunch.

A moveable feast, Korea, a moveable feast.

8:51 PM | 1 Comment

So, I was at the bar on Friday night. This is a sentence that, in my dotage, is far less likely to pass my lips and fingertips than it once was, back when I was positively dripping with vim and vigour and fluids of a more bachelorly nature. But nonetheless, there I was, gazing somewhat blearily at myself in the mirror through the bottles, propping up the fake-mahogany with my buddy J. There was an impressively long line of empty bottles neatly lined up in front of us. I think the Korean guys like the empties left in front of them as a display of their alco-power, but that conspicuous consumption display tends to backfire when me and my equally thirsty drinking buddy, the livers who walk like men, come onto the scene. Shrug.

The gaggle of young women behind the bar are paid as much to be decorative as to actually sling piss, and station themselves right in front of you, whether you want them there or not. Orders. I tend to ignore them, after an initial smile to show I'm not entirely ogrish. It's pretty clear, at least when it comes to old bastards like us, that getting pole position in front of the foreigners is pulling the short straw. The ladies do tend to make a valiant attempt to be hostessy with their few phrases of English, but the time is long, long past when I much enjoyed talking pidgin with bargirls, no matter how attractive they might be. Not to say that I wasn't young and foolish, once. Thousands of young men around the world would be pouring over my seminal textbook, 'Bargirl Bricolage and Soju Semiotics: The Ineluctable Modality of The Boozehound' if I'd ever written the damn thing.

So we were tanking up, smoking, talking sh-t, enjoying the once-a-month concession to our younger selves our wives allow us. At the outer edge of my OB Lager-induced tunnelvision, I noticed a group of 4 guys sit down beside us at the bar, but J and I were deep in discussion about how cool it would be to be first on the ground when the Kimchi Wall comes down, as writers or otherwise, and I didn't notice much other than that the guy beside me was Korean. He didn't say anything to me, so I assumed, as one does, that he didn't speak English, and ignored him after giving a terse nod.

Not long after, though, J announced that it was time to break the seal -- I, as usual, had been peeing like a racehorse since the first friendly whissht! of escaping beer vapour -- and wandered off to the toilets. Turning to me, the Korean guy said 'How's it goin'?'

In those few syllables, I knew not only that he spoke English, but that he was near fluent, and that he'd probably lived overseas for a time. My English Radar is strong. Well, that and the fact that the three other guys sitting with him were all foreigners, and pretty clearly not the English teacher type.

So we started in to talking -- and having a conversation in idiomatic, natural English with someone new is such a rarity for me that I was almost giddy with the strangeness of it (note: nutty expat syndrome ahoy!) -- and I learned that he was the language liaison for the other three, who were Americans, a couple of soldiers and a contractor, and here at the deep water port in Sunshine City to expedite the transhipment of tons of US military equipment from Korea to Kuwait.

That may have been classified information, but we were all pretty drunk.

I was right, both about his English and his history. He'd lived in America and gone to both high school and university there. I asked him how he'd liked it, and he told me this : he went to high school in Illinois, university in Los Angeles, and he hated America. Those were the words he used. I suspect saying so wouldn't have gone over too well with the guys he was with, but they were busy clumsily and loudly hitting on the waitresses, who, in the Way of The Korean Bargirl, tittered fetchingly while failing to hide the look of abject panic in their eyes.

I asked him why he would say such a thing, and he told me that while he was going to university, he worked to make extra money, in a relative's liquor store. And that he'd been shot during the regular hold-ups. Twice.

This boggled my mind.

When he was in hospital, he said, he'd decided that he was leaving America as soon as he finished school, and not coming back. Not surprisingly. Now, I've been around the world a few times in the last 15 years. Been in war zones, been in all the worst places in dangerous cities all over the map. Even LA, one mad weekend on my way down to Mexico, when I heard gun shots in my friends' Hollywood neighbourhood as we stumbled around, indestructible Canuck style, at 4 am. I don't think I've ever met anyone before who's been shot. And this guy, this mild-mannered Korean whose parents sent him over to America to get out of having to do his military service, he'd taken a couple of bullets for the home team.

And now he was back home, getting paid to translate the crude pickup lines of his military colleagues to the girls behind the bar.

There's a metaphor in there somewhere, a twisty-cruel just-so story, I imagine. I leave it to you to tease it out, if you're so inclined.

5:09 PM | 6 comments and 1 trackback

Man, I love them Americans. They feel so strongly about entertaining the rest of us with their comedic stylings, and we are all in their debt for keeping us laughing. The chutzpah, the testicular fortitude that they collectively show, out there on the world stage, walking the tightrope between hilarious self-parody and a collapse into a light-gobbling singularity whose gravitational gradient is so steep that even irony cannot escape. Bravo, I say!

The tension they so skillfully build in all the rest of us who hang on every faux-drunken swerve and stumble of their political machine is breathtaking. Those rapscallions. Teetering up there on the democracy highwire, introducing ramshackle, insecure electronic voting systems built on Microsoft™ Access© while they so nobly and selflessly impose American freedom and democracy on the Afghanis and Iraqis? Oh, eek, I can't watch! Putting their dear leader up there on stage to praise the 10 million voters registered in Afghanistan, when only 9 million are eligible? The showmanship is breathtaking, and The Funny is debilitating.

Trotting out a frothing villain like Zell Miller to inflame the stupid, while retaining the option of distancing yourself ('He's not a Republican!') should the spin from the assembled stenographers of the press turn ugly? Pure comedy gold! Did you see the look on that old bastard's face when he felt the carpet being pulled out from under him? Classic, backslappin' American pie hijinks!

Oh, you wacky yank bastards, how I love that you'd totter so close to the abyss to entertain us all. I wake up each morning frothing in my urgency to fire up my old PC and find out what new japery you might have unleashed.

The subtleties of the ways your leaders use words, my friends, while merely appearing to wield them like a simpleton's club, claiming that they 'don't do nuance'... simply magnificent. The way that you can collectively turn on an ironic dime, and allow a man whose family connections excused him from serving his country to shine the character assassination jocularity spotlight on a man who actually did. And the way that that fellow and his supporters let their foes just do it. Oh, it's belly-laughin' time, right there!

You Americans kill me. No really, you do. Not as dead as the 10,000 (30,000?) Iraqis, or the 3000 Afghanis, or the 1000 Americans, or the 100 'coalition of the willing' (oh, dear, that's a nugget of comedy pyrite there, too) members. (And never mind those 50,000 Komedy Korpses in the Darfur. They're not dead from the hilarity apoplexy!)

A pretend cowboy President whose horses are rented? A constitutional amendment to protect the sanctity of marriage in a nation where half of all marriages end in divorce? An inner powerbroker circle of oil company gassholes and oil prices at all-time highs? A leader who claims to receive instructions from his god (or from 'beyond the stars', whatever that means), making offhand remarks about crusades? Invading a country that posed no threat, while the Norks built more nukes and threaten to turn Seoul into a lake of fire? Talking about corporate responsibility and pumping a few billion into your vice-president's old company? Contracting out your warfare needs to the lowest (or best-connected) bidder? Running a gulag in Cuba, of all places? Torturing children in Iraq while proudly (if spuriously) proclaiming 'no child left behind' back home? Reducing the taxes of the richest, then making populist proclamations like 'there's no point taxing the rich because they just dodge their tax bill anyway'? Osama bin who?

Your A-material kills, my friends. You rock.

You gotta take your show on the road.

5:15 PM | 9 comments and 1 trackback

Is it anti-communitarian of me to say that I'm wryly amused by all the 'bloggers' jostling like wee piggies for a nipple at the Democratic convention? That jockeying for pole position in the anecdote-race to be the first to fellate the rich and powerful is a teeny bit distasteful to me?

Will I get in trouble (again) with all those otherwise good and smart people who are all a-twitter about the fact that they really really matter now? Now that they're inside the chalk borders of the pentagram? I mean, it's cute, all right. Sure. Like the wallflower become belle of the ball. And having them tell themselves, and us, in public, how it's a sign that the heavy elements of democracy are sinking through the clouds of the blogosphere, like the glittering dusty fallout from the Blog Bomb, back onto the heads of the Common People? That a change is a-comin? That's precious, and may even have a kernel of truth to it. More power to 'em. But.

But I'm still waiting, and still looking, for one -- just one! -- who has the bravery and the cockeyed gonzo ballsiness to rip a few new assholes in the purveyors of all that sanctimonious 'America The Great' autowankery, and, say, fling an empty Royal Reserve bottle at the stage while Joe Lieberman does his coattail ride into obscurity. Metaphorically or otherwise. And then write about it. In realtime.

How I wish that there were a few writers there splashing their talent (and cocktails) all over the web. Not just permalink patriots and also-ran digerati, but mad bloggy bastards who'd give me some stank, some snark, a few laughs. How I wish Rageboy could've gone and kicked out the motherf--king jams, or dong_resin, or Golby the crazed. Whoever. Just somebody whose panties don't go all damp at the idea of getting spattered with John Edwards' sweat.

I don't want to see digital snapshots of you posing with some other blogerati dildo or fawning over some Real Celebrity, framed with a bit of Commentary Lite, damn it. I want you to write something that will make me laugh and weep and want to go and break a bottle over someone's head (or laugh and weep and give somebody an equally random big ol' kiss on the lips), then dance like a tarantula-bitten gypsy. Something to fire me up a bit! I want a Hunter S Thompson, by god, a Mencken, somebody with a bit of rage and a bit of juice in 'em, with too many damn words and a talent for juggling them. Someone who sees the opening, seizes it, then drives a juggernaut of text right through the quivering greasy middle of it, while lesser mortals scatter in fear for their lives.

Hell, maybe there are bloggers out there doing that at this convention. If so, point me to them. If not, well, get me a plane ticket and a pass to the Republican Clusterf--k, and I'll do the damn job myself.

Never send a blogger to do a wonderchicken's job.

[Update : Well, OK, this is pretty damn cool. But I'm stickin' to my knee-jerk contrarian guns, damn it!]

[Update 2: Well, besides the Mighty Fafblog, even if I do have my suspicions that Fafnir and Giblets aren't actually there. Still: fafferrific or faffelicious? You decide!]

[Update 3: Oh, crap. Me and John Freakin' Dvorak. I'm turning in my decoder ring.]

[Update 4: f--kin' A, Tutor, my old nemesis.]

4:21 PM | 12 comments and 5 trackbacks.

I had a dream last night. A glorious technicolour dream. A political dream.

In my dream, Candidates Kerry and Edwards realized that Dim George and Snarling Dick were going to pull Osama Bin Laden out of their asses at some opportune moment before the election, and crucify him on the White House lawn. Plant the cross in a pool of scented oil to keep the saudi cooties from spreading, invite the bloodclan and Fox News and Dad, and rouse the tribes to a tumescent, frantic headline-crawl apogee of Republican vote-lust. But in a tasteful way, with very little mention of anyone having to go and f--k themselves.

My dream-representation of the light dawning in the Johns' minds was a tableau of them making cute anime 'O's with their mouths while rolling their eyes upwards toward a shared thought balloon in which Dick Cheney was holding the severed head of Osama up by its hair, letting the blood drip onto a Diebold voting machine. It was way cool.

So Franken-John and Pretty-John decided to go proactive. Winning, Kerry declared in his endearingly halting, tone-deaf way, is as much about kicking... some... mother...f--king ass as it is about proactively leveraging mission-critical paradigms in a time-sensitive fashion. Edwards popped up in front of him to declare that the only way to make America strong, to unite America again, and to preempt an October Suprise that would make America unstrong and disunited, was if the two of them were to hunt down that bastard OBL themselves, and beat the chickenhawks at their own game.

Yeah! said the crowd. Woo!

And so, enlisting the aid of a bionic monkey named Limbaugh (because robots and monkeys are funny, and a robot monkey wins by default (until the bionic monkey pirate shows up, at least)), the two boarded a Black Hawk helicopter and departed from an undisclosed location into the free and democratic mountains of America's Newest Ally, Afghanistan. This wasn't just any helicopter, mind you. This was way better than the Campaign Bus they figured on using off the get-go. Yes, this was a stealth chopper, and its shiny new Kerry/Edwards vinyl appliqués were replaced with other shiny new ones, ones shouting stuff like 'Death To America!' and 'Jihad or Bust!' (but with barely-legible disclaimers underneath in tiny little print, just in case somebody got the wrong idea). These guys were clever, canny combatants, and they had good media advisors!

With Lurch resplendant in Ramboriffic headband and shiny plastic nippleless muscley-torso, and co-John working his best assets and looking simply stunning in his floor-length silk gown, they combed the arid hills of the Afghan-Pakistan border in their OsamaChopper, setting down each evening as Allah's sun sank into the dusty haze to lay traps for the Bad Guys. Candidate Breck Girl strutted his silky stuff while bandolero-strapped Candidate Kerry lurked in the shadows with Limbaugh and waited, guns akimbo, frowning for the film-school interns with the digital video cameras. Waiting for their quarry to strike the bait.

Waiting, and drinking whiskey, because that's what men do when they're hunting outlaws with a bionic monkey at their side.

That's when I woke up with a start, all sweaty and disoriented. I hope I never have to see that look on my wife's face again.

3:30 PM | 6 comments

It's late December, 1992. I've been living a life of madness and booze, sex, drugs and slightly dodgy rock and roll for months now. La Passionata is the name of the boat, and Marina de La Paz, or, more accurately, the anchorages just off it between the mainland and the mangrove offshore sandbar called El Mogote, has been my new stomping grounds. La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico.

How I got into this life of drinking and sailing and drinking and sailing and drinking a whole lot more is a bit of a blur, but burned bronze and blonde-streaked, skinny and intent on squeezing as much random fun as possible out of every glorious day, I'm happier than I have been in a long time.

But I can also feel my personality disintegrating, or at least that's how I phrase it to myself in my saltwater- and beer-stained journal. Maybe the sun and the booze and the whippets and speed and the untrained scuba dives, the days out at Isla Espiritu Santo and Isla Partida hunting fish and lobster and cooking them for the women we'd picked up at the Barba Negra the night before, and the nights back at the bar again running up our tab with the long-suffering owner, Jose, have taken their toll, finally.

Looking back on it now, I don't know how I could have gotten tired of it -- sometimes I'd give my left nut to be back there again, careless, happy, exalted and gloriously befuddled, swimming with whalesharks and flirting with vulpine German tourist girls, being lulled to sleep by gentle motion of the hull in the swell and the quiet slap of warm water against the fiberglass.

I'm tired of waiting in port, looking at the charts of all that crinkled Pacific coast running down all the way to Panama, I'm feeling the effects of all that recreational chemistry, and I've been offered berth on a boat so much bigger than La Pass -- 71 feet of waterline! my own cabin after sleeping in the salon and getting my head stepped on by whoever else crashed aboard on any given night! -- that I've made the decision to jump ship and head across the blue water with Elmo's Fire. And the boys on La Passionata will meet up with us down the coast, they promise. Probably in Vallarta, in a month or so. A little time away from the 24-hour party people will be good for me, I reckon, and so I move my single bag over to Elmo, and dance around a little in my own little two-bunk cabin, up under the bow, before I get to work.

Elmo's Fire's been tied up at the pier in front of the Hotel Gran Baja for years. It is averred by most that Michael, the hard-boozing but indestructible Englishman who's been living aboard since the owners disappeared -- one dead, one in jail for trafficking, one lit out to parts unknown, it is said -- is really the black sheep Viscount Ashley, and survives off a yearly stipend from the Good Family in exchange for a promise to stay the hell away. Whether that's true or not I don't care -- I've heard enough tales tall and wide in the past months to last a lifetime, and I don't care much whether they're fiction or not, they are such glorious mythical water in which to swim. Michael is a good man, and kind, if scatterbrained in the boozer cruiser way, and universally acknowledged to be a fine sailor, veteran of several TransPac races.

A few days later, less than a week before Christmas, and we've picked up a new crewmember at the Barba Negra, which, with Michael's squirrely girlfriend, makes four of us to manage this Ocean '71. The weather has come up -- Chabasco weather in the Sea of Cortez is like hurricane weather over in the Gulf -- and we're riding anchor, tucked safely into the south-facing Bahia de Los Muertos south of La Paz, waiting with nine other boats to make our break for Mazatlan. Nobody's moving. Michael's getting itchy. I'm scared sh-tless. 'Bay of the Dead' is not an auspicious name for the departure point of my first bluewater sail, not when the wind's howling down from the north at 40 to 60 knots.

Finally, about 9pm, Michael snaps, calls the rest of the cruisers on the open channel cowards, and tells us we're making sail.

I've spent the last few hours working on the SatNav, and it seems to be working as it should (for the first time in months, apparently), and I tinkered with Iron Mike, the autopilot, earlier in the day. With only a few months experience on the boats, that's about all I can do, other than follow orders, and cook dinner. We motor out past the headland, into the swell, Michael points the pointy end into the wind, and we do our deckmonkey thing and haul the mainsail up. The swell rolling down the Sea of Cortez is huge -- it feels like 8 metres, but it can't be more than 4 or 5, probably. That's enough. I'm scared. The night is young, and very dark.

Michael is standing behind the wheel grinning through his scraggly white beard now, and as he brings us around to the east, the mainsail catches the wind, and Elmo heels over, hard. The lee rail is buried in wake, and in a matter of seconds, we're flying along east-southeast ahead of massive following seas. Dale and Lenore go below, and I sit with Michael in the open cockpit, and he teaches me some of what I'm going to need to know. My watch will be 4am to 8am, and the weather could get better or worse between now and then. I sneak the occasional look over my left shoulder at the waves towering over us, and it's even more sphincter-tighteningly scary than the foam and black water coursing along the deck where the rail on the lee side of the boat is well and truly underwater. I concentrate on his lessons.

It's a few hours later -- after midnight -- and the weather has gotten heavier. The SatNav tells me that we're well and truly out in the blue water now, but it's the same dark, foamflecked and howling maelstrom of wind and wave it was when we were mere minutes offshore. The difference is that I know we're many many nautical miles from land now. It's the first time for me.

I don't think I've ever been this scared, but my sailing (and drinking) adventures in the last few months have gone some way towards acclimatizing me to functioning while terrified. I am taking some small pride in my impassive mien when particularly hard gusts push the boat over further, or rogue waves wash through the cockpit. This is going to be OK, I think to myself.

This is when Michael, who's been letting Iron Mike steer for the past hour, I find out, and just resting his hands on the wheel, decides he might as well have a drink. Michael never has just one drink. Neither do I, if truth be told, but then I'm not the f--king skipper on this little passage.

There is one rule that my friends back at Marina de La Paz, most of whom are boozers of an intensity and dedication I'd rarely seen before -- and this is saying a lot -- have drilled into me. You drink in port or at anchor; you do not drink while under way. You do not do it.

Michael cracks his first beer. My eyes go round, my sphincter goes loose, and tightly-wound escalates to underwear-staining. Brown Alert! It doesn't take long to figure out that other than Michael, I'm the most experienced sailor on board. And I don't know sh-t.

By 3am he is pissed, semiconscious and prone, wrapped in a poncho on the downwind bench of the cockpit. Beer cans are rolling around, awash, in the cockpit. Our other two crew members are below, sleeping, presumably. I am behind the wheel, and the seas are getting heavier, to the extent that the autopilot whines and chatters in protest as it struggles to bring the bow around in the wake of maybe one in five of the huge waves that are sliding beneath us. I disengage it and take the wheel.

For the next 3 hours, I steer that massive boat through the storm. My only time before this behind the wheel of Elmo's Fire has been a couple of hours running before the wind from La Paz down to Bahia de Los Muertos, before the winds came up. Er, yesterday. I'm way out of my depth. What Michael told me before he passed out -- that to jibe the sail in these winds would snap the boom -- keeps running through my mind, and though I try to keep our course as easterly as possible, the crash and rattle of the sail when we come down off the peak of some of these waves hammers at my confidence.

Still, although there are perhaps one or two gusts or monster waves per hour, enough to make me jump and struggle to keep the boat under control, I begin to get used to it. Michael snores away, through spray and hull-slam, and I try to keep the cigarettes I've been chainsmoking dry, and begin to understand that I have not failed, and that we probably won't die. I realize that this night may have been the most important test of my mettle so far in my young life, where I had to rise to the challenge and master it, and that I was doing it, by god.

The horizon begins to lighten before 6am. I've never been so happy to see the sun before, and as the skies begin to grow bright, the winds fall away, and the swell begins to recede. Or that's what it feels like, at least. The monsters that loomed out of the dark shrink away, and in the light of day, fear seems silly and unworthy and unmanly. In instant retrospect (just add sunlight), terror gives way to adventure.

By the time the full disc of the sun detaches itself from the eastern horizon, I can see land, a bumpy darker line above the dark water. Tempted by the memories of too many pirate movies as a kid, I shout, only a little maliciously, 'Land ahoy!' Michael starts into wakefulness, squints at me, nods, creakily limps over to the rail and pisses, then relieves me of my watch. I light us a couple of cigarettes, pass one to him, and move over.

Soon there are sounds below, and the smell of coffee wafts up from the gangway.

We'll be in Mazatlan by sunset. And then we will sail south.

4:14 PM | 13 comments

It's hard to get your balance these days. Turn over a bucket, hop up on it, perch there precariously, look around as the cascade of chitinous black beetles surf in on surges of liquid sh-t. Pull up your pantlegs as the wave breaks around you and the brown spatters fly, squeak a bit, pray that the bugs (and the rats whose glowing eyes you see in the murk around you) don't know how to climb.

Which is a melodramatic way to say that I don't quite know what to say. Got some outrage? Get in line, sucker. Got something to say about rapin' and torturin', about beheadin'? So does every other Right Thinking Citizen, and by crikey, they're making sure that those somethings are heard.

Let's roll. Stay the course. Bring it on. Cut and run. Never forget. I'll be back. Duck and cover.

Wait, that last one doesn't fit in, does it? At least not yet.

It's getting hard to stare unflinching into the actinic glare as the doors of hell swing open these days. The impulse, even after we've been bombarding ourselves with images like goatse and tubgirl and Daniel Pearl and Michael Jackson's face, graveyard-joking all the while to show how tough and desensitized we are, is to turn away. To stop tattooing those horrible pictures on the sensitive cauliflower folds.

But each new iteration exerts its sick fascination, and the rays of doomlight -- shining from Lynndie England and Nick Berg, from Madrid and Kabul -- glitter over our mental horizons, lighting up the whole mediated clusterf--k as it whips itself into ever-bloodier froth. The tender-fleshed, bright-eyed Friends-consumers we were only show up in the quietest moments. Our shell-shocked outrage-fatigued palimpsest faces are hanging out in the wind, just like our asses. Can't really make out the old stories of who we were on our faces anymore, and can't make out the new stories either, scrawled in blood and filth, littered with copyright and trademark symbols and viagra ads and homemade porn and watermarked photos of piles of naked bodies.

Not piles of corpses. At least not yet.

The impulse is to turn away. But we tell ourselves that it's weak and unworthy to avert our gaze. We've been told that it's our ethical responsibility to bear witness, to see with eyes clear the evil that's done in our names or otherwise, to understand and remember it, to prevent it ever happening again. Possibly at the risk of losing the chance to stop it, but pay that no never mind.

We love freedom. They hate freedom. We love liberty. God bless America. Down with the Great Satan.

We're gonna shove democracy up their asses until they love us, just like Mike Tyson.

But not turning away can lead into an addictive room of mirrors. Bearing witness changes from a duty and a rite to a habit and a vice. The feed only gets notice when we unhook it, and we're not fed the world by our umbilicals, we're pulled further out of it. Schroedinger's cat doesn't die unless we see it happen, but if we're watching it on video, it doesn't really matter which way it goes. Kill 'em all and let god sort 'em out.

So we watch. We stagger from table to buffet table, dyspeptic and enervated, mildly turgid under our loosened belts. We snap and grin with our cams and camphones, and our photos are products that refer to themselves, not us. Our kaleidoscopic images proxy the world, and let us maintain the illusion that we aren't really a part of it, and that the bad things are happening over there. That those chants and tribal signifiers that make us feel so good and so strong and so right actually mean something other than 'go team'.

Smoke 'em out. Read my lips. No blood for oil. Support the troops. Rock the vote. Not in my name.

It becomes easier when everyone else is Them. We didn't saw off poor Nick's head, it was those scum, those vermin, the evil-doers, those others. We didn't stick blunt objects up prisoners' asses, either, or rape them or set dogs on them, we didn't rip those kids apart with our amusingly-named ordinance. That was other people, a few bad apples, and they're not us! We're consumers of the images, don't you see? We didn't make this world! We didn't maim that boy! It was them. Them! We didn't slit Daniel Pearl's throat, we didn't knock over the gravestones, we didn't fly airplanes into the World Trade Centre! We didn't sell arms to Saddam, we didn't sell arms to Iran, we didn't ask for the double-anal pissporn, we didn't do any of that sh-t. We are watchers. Watching makes it real, and watching keeps it separate from us. Watching is a noble act, at least until it gives you a hardon.

The basic truth gets obscured. What's the difference between Osama bin Laden and George Bush? There isn't one. What's the difference between that f--ker Amrozi who set the bomb that killed my friend Rick and me? There isn't one. What's the difference between the animals that sawed off Nick Berg's head and the animals that beat prisoners to death at Abu Ghraib? There isn't one. Between the Pope and Saddam? Between that old lady in front of the TV in a trailer in Alabama and that old lady digging up roots in a field in Kazakhstan?

We are one. We are all meat and electricity. And if there is more than that, we are all equally a part of that divine More. Or none of us are.

These ones go to 11.

I remember standing when I was maybe 14 in a circle of faces in the icy parking lot of the only arcade in town, out in front of what used to be Sonny's hardware store. It was snowing, and I was in my shirtsleeves. Someone had yelled fight! and we'd all tumbled out past the steamed-up windows, out of the humid warmth into the snow. I can't remember the names of the two combatants, but I can remember their faces. And I can remember the faces of the people watching. They were avid. Grinning. This was different from the clumsy, reluctant pecking-order school fights I'd seen (or been a part of) before. This was the real thing. One of the two was already down on the ice, on his back, eyes unfocused, by the time I took up a position on the outer edges of the ring of spectators. He was clearly finished. That didn't matter, apparently. The victor hauled back his heavy winter boot and kicked the prone one in the head. I remember most clearly the sound, and the way that the head moved on the slack neck, and the colour of the blood on the ice. One kick, two, three, then someone at the front of the ring stepped in to stop the fun.

The look I saw on many of the bright tight faces was disappointment. That was the first of many fights I saw in my violent little hometown over the years, and the pattern was never different, except that in later years the fights were always fueled by alcohol. You go down, you get boot-f--ked. It was a thing common enough that we had created a special name for it. Some people died, some needed reconstructive surgery, some were barred from entering the village limits. Being big and strong and stronger still of liver, and having good friends around at all times, I never got bootf--ked. Being me, I never bootf--ked anyone, though lord knows I there were times that I wanted to. In a legendarily violent town of 3000 people, you quickly understand the rules of retribution and revenge.

When I was in 17, I read Bret Easton Ellis's American Psycho. It hurt. It put images in my head that I didn't want in there, that are still in there more than 20 years later, and I hated him for it. The abstraction of brutality, the matter-of-fact articling of such utterly transgressive violence twisted my melon and started me wondering where it might lead.

Well, now we know.

Even back then, even as a callow teen, I defended his right to have written it, though I was inclined to want to punch him in the face for having done so, were I ever to meet him. Growing up media-starved (and smart, drunk and angry) in a town where you could choose between two CanCon television channels, where there was no movie theatre, no bookstore, only a tiny library and not even the dream that such a thing as the internet might ever exist, it was a rapid education I received in those three years between my freshman witnessing of my first bootf--king and the graduation ceremony of reading Ellis's deadpan fantasia of dismemberment and death. The first lessons stay with you the longest.

Today I can find movies and photos and paintings and stories of the same and worse, three clicks away, without even breaking a sweat. And as often as not, these things really happened.

My impulse to turn away usually wins out these days. This may be the wrong thing to do. When a puppy sh-ts on the floor, we rub his nose in it (or at least we used to, in less kind, gentle days) for a reason.

But I guess I realized at some point that there is something I can do about a man who starts a war, perhaps, but there is little I can do about a man who kills and dismembers another person, unless that person is me. And there's still less I can do about a man who aquires money or fame writing about it.

Or, you know, a woman.

I also realized somewhere down the road that whether it's fiction or photo, documentary or gore-flick, fake or genuine, no representation of violence is anything like the real thing. Our frisson of revulsion, our predictable and pointless anger at the perpetrator, our self-serving hollow vows of 'never again', our demonization of the other who would so transgress those ethical standards we hold out as self-evident, our self-congratulatory conviction that we'd never do anything like that, and our complacence in the face of the indisputable fact that everyone, everywhere seems to be doing it anyway.... well, what are you going to do? Cheer the killer monkeys on? "We are nihilists, Lebowski. We believe in nothink!" Been there, done that, and it's a dead end too.

I haven't got any answers. But I am pretty sure that regardless of whether you have nightmares about the Texas Chainsaw Massacre (or the Jesus Chainsaw Massacre) or the horrors of Abu Ghraib, no matter how accurately and horribly that fact or fiction is captured and portrayed for you, these things are to the real experience of violence as American beer is to the real thing. f--king close to water.

No wait. I mean - 'a weak approximation'.

But the killer monkeys just won't stop. And sometimes, you just have to turn away, all the while realizing that if you haven't got the stomach for the imagery, you would be destroyed by the reality.

6:27 PM | 17 comments and 9 trackbacks.

You've got to be joking. Honestly, I think my brain's going to explode. I was ready to leave this behind, and now I'm not so sure.

First, David Weinberger writes an essay that quite ably argues that although there may be echo chambers per se, at least in terms of politics (which is a very minor slice of the whole pie, of course), on the web, there are in fact a multitude of them, and as a consequence we are able both in principle and in practice to expose ourselves to a greater range of opinion and interpretation than we might otherwise be. The space (if it can be well-described in spatial terms, a discussion long-past and best left buried under the azalea bush out back, perhaps) as a whole isn't an echo chamber, he argues, if I understand him correctly: it is a vast concatenation of echo chambers, varying in their vehemence and level of groupthink, and thus benign. A metachamber, not ringing with echoes at all, but with the grand hubbub that is the sounds of the little echo chambers (occasionally with a population of one) singing into the void.

I'd argue that this is saying precisely nothing. I would argue that the weblog world is getting topheavy with pundits and supastars and, heaven forbid, leaders, who may (or may not) have gotten there from sheer merit, I admit, but that this trend is making thinking about the medium taste more like top-down pearls before swine than I'm entirely comfortable with.

I would argue that it is a tautology that the internet is a group of groups, and those groups, as a result of human nature, tend to organically accrete around shared common interests and beliefs, just as they do in the real world, and further that it is easier on the internet to be mobile between groups, sometimes radically different ones. This, I agree, is one of the great things about our digital lives. Unfortunately, unlike in real life, it is also far easier for participants to express themselves in ways more extreme than they might do in their 'real lives', and the echo chambers where there's a self-reinforcing feedback loop of -- shall we say -- excessive zeal can turn evil or stupid or both very quickly indeed. But this isn't what Dr W is talking about, I don't think.

He says

And I'm not entirely sure that I agree. Why is it a good thing, exactly? I suggest that the less writing (isn't that what this is all about, out here in the ASCII (sorry, UTF-8) world? the writing?) and the more self-congratulation that goes on, the less relevance personal websitery seems to actually have to anyone, including its practitioners.

Next (and I don't mean to get all up in David's face, but he started me on this) Dr W anticipates a second Bloggercon and mentions that Dave Winer is planning to "ask each of the moderators to work 'Nuking the Echo Chamber' into the discussion", and notes that Winer asks "How do we methodically and systematically overcome the tendency for echo chambers to form and self-perpetuate?"

Ahhhhhh-hahahahhaha. Stop me before I kill blog again.

Am I losing my mind here? Is Dr Weinberger not a weblog-writer (brilliant and talented, intellectually grunty, fiercely sexy, all that, sure, OK -- I've nothing but respect for the man even when he's as wildly off the mark as I feel him to be on this) who is among that gang of Usual Suspects that show up at all of these blog conventions and conferences and so on and then tell us all about them (blogging about the talking about the blogging, which is often blogging about the blogging in the first place), whether we're interested or not, who is a shaper, most certainly, of both the weblog universe's thinking about itself and the old media's perception of webloggers as well, is this fine fellow pointing to another of the Usual Suspects -- this one even more of an 800 pound gorilla in the field, and one who's running yet another of these conferences, at bloody Harvard no less -- and praising a decision to have panel discussions at another blog conference about avoiding echo chambers ? With a straight face?

Am I insane, or the last one left who isn't? Is plain old irony supposed to make me laugh this hard?

I wouldn't care, honestly, if it weren't a matter of many of these folks guiding and shaping so much of our thinking about weblogs and web writing and all the various activities that fall under the 'blogging' umbrella. The echo chamber in which Dr Weinberger unapologetically places himself, I submit, is the only one that is truly dangerous to our Happy Fun Shiny Weblog World at all, because it is the one from which so much of the thinking we take as common currency trickles down to us mere, bits-only mortals. Or is it only me that thinks that the Usual Suspects have an overly strong influence in the way we think about this stuff, that their frequent meetings in the world of atoms consolidates and extends that influence, and that sometimes it feels as if there really is an emerging Cabal™? Is it only because of the corner of the metachamber in which I find myself? Am I missing all the constellations of new voices who haven't gotten linked as a result of what they write rather than who they've met?

Honestly, I'd really appreciate some help figuring out if I'm talking complete bollocks here, and developing unhealthy signs of compulsion in my semi-demented criticism of blog conferences. Is it just sour grapes because I'm poor as a church mouse and live half a planet away from all the action? Shouldn't the tyranny of distance not matter any more? Is it only me?

1:52 PM | 12 comments and 8 trackbacks.

Here's a story of The Young Wonderchicken for you. 1989, I think it was, my first year in Europe.

We'd hated Italy, the Bearman and I, and there was no real reason we could point to and say "That's why this place sucks, damn it!" The previous month or two of wandering southward from Edinburgh -- where I'd been drinking Bulgarian wine, taking long windswept nighttime walks on the Portobello promenade and getting romantically involved with underaged Scotswomen for the past four months or so -- without agenda or schedule or much in mind beyond cherchez les femmes and cherchez le booze, had been glorious and, if not precisely successful in the femmes department, had at least been steeped in liquor and spontaneous goofiness.

Italy had been a bust, for some reason. I remember writing about the 'little bastard pasta-pounders' in a letter to our amigo Rick, a level of (comedic-) vituperation that back in my more peaceable days was unusual, unless I was three-sheets a'ranting. Torino, Pisa, Roma. We just couldn't seem to find any pleasant people. Or get into the rhythm of it, somehow. The highlight had probably been our unexpected discovery of a bottle of Seagram's VO in a dusty little booze shop in Rome, after a long day of Vatican-seeing and footsore street-wandering and clumsy pre-pubescent pickpocket away-shooing. It remains one of my clearest memories of that time, seeing that ridiculously underpriced bottle sitting there, a beam of sunlight cutting through the dustmotes like the finger of god and illuminating the golden elixir within as the bleedin' choir invisibule of liquor descended and sang tinny little hosannas in our ears. Perhaps a holiness hangover from Pope City, which, though impressive in a crenellated, gilded, retro-poofy kind of way, left me with a feeling more Disney than Dante. We took that bottle back to the slighty hostile hostel, and drained it in the basement lounge in the company of a batsh-t insane Tasmanian who had attached himself to us when he saw we had some of the good stuff.

So we'd just given up on it, and caught the train straight to Brindisi, where an overnight ferry would take us to Greece. I was hoping that Greece would be The Place. Paris had lived up to my romantically-elevated expectations, and even surpassed them. It had been a surprise, actually, steeped as I was in far, far too much of Miller and his Nin, and Hemingway and his gin, and all the other Americans that wrote filthy hymns to the city. Not to mention the gaggle of gloomy Frenchman that every 23 year-old of a certain disposition takes much too seriously. Our weeks in Paris had been a time of great joy, and our week of detox in Aix-Les-Bains afterwards, down at the western foot of the Alps, had been just the counterbalance we'd needed. But Italy? Well, not so much. And so I had high hopes for Greece. I was all Colossus of Maroussi'd up, I think I claimed at the time.

We'd been on the boat from Brindisi to Patras a few hours, I guess, when we began to feel a need for some liquid refreshment. Happily, beer was sold, and though back in these days our tipple of choice was good Canadian rye whiskey, our flexibility was much improved by our recent wanderings, and we purchased as many cans as we were able to carry. That turned out to be quite a few more than was strictly advisable, but that's the way of these things when you're young, dumb and full of...well, joi de vivre, I guess.

The way of these things also is that our hilarity (and no doubt our beer) smoothed introductions with some of our nearby fellow-seafarers, two guys who turned out to be wandering Eurodrunks themselves, another Canadian and an Irishman. The Canadian was a good ol' beef-fed Alberta boy, profane and pussy-struck, making us feel rather weedy with his many Tales of Concupiscent Conquest. His main goal in life seemed to be the procuring of prostitutes in as many nations as possible, and he was keen to share his accumulated wisdom on this arcane topic. The Dublin-based Irishman was a skinny, hyperkinetic, weaselly fellow, short and self-conscious, and for a member of the backpacker crowd, where your story-telling is your one universally-exchangeable currency, unusually reticent to share any personal details. Still, after some initial missteps -- the Irishman responded to our fanboy-queries about U2 with 'that Bono's fookin' sh-te!' -- we were soon rollicking on the high seas. Our two new buddies purchased and packed over to our corner of the deck a staggering number of cold cans, and, concerned that the small concession that sold the beer might close, the Bearman and I also replenished our slightly diminished reserves as well, just in case.

We played some dominos, and told tales of our travels. The Canuck, an oil worker, had many, mostly involving 'the ladies', predictably, the Irishman few. They seemed boon companions, though, thanks in part to the beer, and the odd sense of relief we felt at getting out of Italy. The Bearman and I, newbies at the game, had only a few tales to tell, but made up for lack of quantity with quality -- shamanistic firelit Tale Of The Hunt dances and gutteral shouts to indicate, for example, our dismay at the advanced age of the ladies of the evening inside the dimly lit, heavily draped precincts of that brothel in Pigalle, for example. Stories were swapped with increasing animation and jocularity, until about the third or fourth time that a steward showed up to tell us that the 'Captain is very upset and wishes you please to be silent'. We were pleased that the Captain would take personal notice of us, and asked our long-suffering friend to invite him down for beer. I don't recall him accepting, sadly.

It all gets a bit hazy at that point, but I do know that we didn't get off at Corfu, where I'd hoped to stop on the way, enchanted as I'd been by Lawrence Durrell's Miller-influenced Black Book (and remembering his brother Gerald's luminous juvenilia from high school, where we'd had to read them for English class). When I woke up it was early afternoon, and I was draped across a couple of hard plastic seats with a rivulet of drool running down into my right ear. The usual, in other words. We were approaching Patras.

The hangover started to lift as we finished going through customs, and the four of us decided, as you do, that we might as well travel together for a bit, at least as far as Athens. We decided too that the wisest course of action was to grab a room and find the nearest bar, in that order.

We found a room with three beds, and I offered to take the floor and pay a little less. More money for beer, I thought, pleased with myself for demonstrating fiscal responsibility. Couldn't be more uncomfortable than the plastic ferry seats had been, and the place looked relatively free of vermin. We dumped our gear, and as the sun started going down over the sea again, found a taverna. It was bright and crowded with friendly, happy drinkers. There were beautiful women, mugs of icy beer set down in front of us if we so much as raised an eyebrow, and what the Bearman would describe in later years as 'the best damn chips I ever ate'. I remember turning to him at one point, happy, and saying 'We're home!' And it felt like we were.

Many hours later, I was swimming up out of my alco-coma to sounds that I'd grow used to in Greece over the next 10 months -- bells and chickens. It wasn't unusual for me to wake up, in those wandering days, not knowing with any certainty where I was, or even who I was, sometimes. I quite enjoyed that blank slate feeling, sometimes, to be honest, and this morning I was feeling pretty damn groggy. I'd been having a magnificently erotic dream, involving several of the women who'd been at the bar the night before. The odd thing, though, was that as I started to cross that line from not knowing if I was awake or not, and not caring, particularly, into being quite certain that I actually was awake, the sexy sensations weren't diminishing. All this only took perhaps 5 seconds, as the gears in my mind caught, slipped, then caught again.

I realized that there was a hand in my underwear. A rather busy hand. 'Rrrr?' said my brain. I didn't remember any particular success with any of the women in the bar last night. There was also a face buried in my armpit. 'Rrrr!' said my brain, 'That's not right!' I opened my eyes, and there was the Irishman, one hand down my boxers, sniffing the living daylights out of my left armpit. I was suddenly wide awake.

I smacked him one in the head, and he looked up at me as if I'd hurt his feelings. Although I wasn't so much angry as I was discombobulated and disoriented and dehydrated, I pointed to his bed with some authority, and tried to say with my eyes 'get back there or I'm gonna get mad. You wouldn't like me when I'm mad!' He slowly clambered back into his bed, and as he silently watched, I moved my blanket over to the patch of floor between the Bearman and the oil-worker, who were still snoring away in blissful ignorance of the absurd little drama, and pointed vigorously at his bed to indicate that I would prefer that he stay there. Then I went back to sleep.

We all woke up a few hours later, ate a greasy, glorious breakfast, and left for Athens. Nothing more was said of armpits or underpants.

So there's a little story. I wrote it for you because I have nothing really to say about all this gay-marriage brouhaha in America other than it's criminally stupid that it should even be something that people are upset about, and because the Bearman is going back to Greece in a couple of months with his Cypriot-Canadian wife and I wish I could go, and I woke up the other morning thinking about Greece. I hold no resentment to the Irishman who woke me up by fondling my junk -- it seemed a funny way, even at the time, to wake up on my first morning in Greece. And I don't think I've ever met a female backpacker that didn't have a tale, at least in those days, of unwelcome fondling by some creepy guy in a hostel somewhere.

I've never been one to be angry at individuals for their folly and their weakness, beyond an occasional rant or two. En masse, maybe, yeah. I just love to stir up the sh-t, and I've done some of that in recent times, sure, but that's only because it was fun. I'm all about the love, honest. And I loved Greece. It turned out to be one of the greatest places I've ever been, and I miss it sometimes.

It has a special place in my heart, if not my underwear.

5:02 PM | 6 comments

I'll be 40 years old next year, but I don't, despite my worst fears, feel anything like that ancient. Thanks to my greatly reduced intake of things that are bad for me (from apocalyptic to merely terrifying), I feel physically better than I did throughout most of my 20s and early 30s. Ten years ago, my friends and I were already referring to ourselves as 'aging punks,' and possibly the only thing that has changed in that description, for me at least, is that '-ing' has become '-ed'. This will become relevant, trust me.

I've been casting about for a way to frame my thinking about weblogs and weblogging lately, as I've watched with a mild dismay apparently shared by others down the street about the way in which the tang and tenor in our neighbourhood of neighbourhoods have been changing in these post-blogdiluvian times. I hadn't found the key I needed until this morning, and it was, amusingly, courtesy of Dave Winer.

(Now I have had my run-ins, as have many, apparently, with Mr Winer, for reasons I won't bother detailing, as I am trying in many ways to be a better man -- angry, cantankerous and likely to erupt in spontaneous ranting at any moment, sure, but a better angry man -- and there's no need to re-open old wounds. Suffice it to say that what follows has nothing to do with my personal feelings about Dave. No part of it should be construed as an attack on him, although it is always possible he might perceive it as such. That happens sometimes, I've noticed. The truth is that I've quite happily avoided thinking much about him, and presumably him about me, since back in October 2002. And that's just fine. )

I have to thank Mr Winer for dripping that last droplet into my mental beaker, the one that supersaturated the solution and turned it crystalline with a barely audible thwonk!

When I got into the weblogging thing, yaar, back in the year of our lord 2000 I think it was, somewhat late to the party but carrying a few six-packs of the good stuff to ease the trauma of my gatecrashing, I was totally unaware that there were communities of people that had banded together, and who were as taken as I with the promise of it all. I was unaware that there were already stars in the personal-website firmament, unaware that there even was a firmament. I just stumbled onto Blogger somehow, drunker than a cheesetester on good scotch as I recall, and my geek cilia started wiggling, and off I went.

I didn't know there were people building their own tools to make it even easier to become part of the revolution, to fling open those doors, to take over the world by giving everyone who might have something to say a way to say it and a stage on which to do it, regardless of how or how well they were going to say their piece. Voice, all of that. Access to the internet was the price of entry, of course, but the democracy of it all was breathtaking, even if it was democracy for rich kids, for the most part. That's always been the way of it, after all.

It reminded me of punk rock. When I first encountered punk, back in 1982 or '83, after having grown up in a tiny, media-starved and desperately uncool (if green and pleasant, at least away from the sawmills and clearcuts) northern village and having moved to Vancouver to go to university, the proverbial scales fell from my eyes. Thtink, plink. Berserk autodidact that I was, I'd already developed an effective sneer, a deep distrust and dislike for authority and political chicanery, a habit of arguing mercilessly and cruelly if the matter at hand was something I believed in and merely arguing vociferously if it wasn't, and a nihilistic, risk-addicted, maniacally-boozing demeanor. I had, at the age of 18, though, not yet discovered that there were tens or hundreds of thousands of others with the same sorts of unpleasant societally-discouraged aberrations, and they'd been gathering together and making this mad, loud, ramshackle, gloriously angry music for years already.

I loved it. The music, not so much the fashion. I knew folks who went in for the whole 'punk look,' and I thought they were a bit laughable, but harmless, as long as they loved the music and the community. Pose(u)rs, was the word, but I kind of felt that those who called other people posers were almost as destructive to the spirit of the thing as the fashion-victims themselves. (Mark me, here. I'll come back to this.) So I wore a leather jacket, and messed-up jeans, in pretty much my only concessions to the fashion side of the scene, and grew my hair hippy-long, which was anti-punk to be sure; I drank and did scary stupid dangerous things, and went to gigs, bothered my neighbours with bootleg cassettes cranked to the nuts, and papered my walls with gig posters, and made friends with musicians, and ate chemicals, and reviled the nazis, and generally gloried in what I'd been missing in my sh-tty little northern town throughout my teens -- a sense of community, and more specifically a community to which I was happy to belong. Not a community of redneck wife-beating millworkers, this time, although it must be said I had many friends back in that segment of society too.

I felt much the same way about the weblogging thing, a couple of years back, especially when my writing began to get noticed and linked and emailed-about and commented-upon by people whose writing and thinking I in turn respected, and I started to understand how many communities there were within the greater world of the webloggers. There was a wild spirit of creativity running through the wires, it seemed to me, and I found myself a part of a loosely-joined (nudge, wink) group of dauntingly smart and well-spoken people, who didn't seem, for the most part, to object to my more outrageous turns of phrase. I joined Metafilter, not long before it stopped becoming a Name Brand Weblogger Hub and grew into more of a general in-love-with-the-web community weblog in its own right, which introduced me to a whole constellation of bright webby people. It was exhiliarating, in much the same way as the World Of Punk had been as it opened up to me almost 20 years earlier.

It was welcome, too, because having lived the life of a real-world wanderer for the previous 15 years, a sense of community, community less transient than a group of backpackers coming together randomly in a bar in Indonesia or somewhere... well, that was something I was sorely missing. This parallel I felt to the alt-rock scene in which I forged my young identity all those years back was in no small part, I realize in retrospect, a driver for my over-the-top reaction to a nuts-and-bolts piece of writing by Megnut way back when (here, here, here). It was to me, I see now, as if a snide critic -- no worse! a punk-rock luminary -- had described the essence of punk as 'play loud, fast and sloppy, behave outrageously once in a while, and throw in some random lefty politics and unfocussed anger, and bob's yer uncle!' It felt like the kind of reduction to appearance over substance that has always enraged me, and is something that even today I rail against as a core failing of Korean society, for example. Not that that's what Megnut was guilty of in any sense, perhaps, but it pushed my buttons, and now I see why.

Anyway. These weblog people I found myself (virtually) amongst had banded together, it seemed to me, in part because people do that when they're exploring new frontiers, when they're not entirely sure of how to proceed but are in love with the new potential they see for a life lived in a way a little less ordinary, and when they suddenly find that there are other people out there who are doing the same thing. Out on the fringes, singing their songs.

Of course, bands break up, and personalities clash, and egos swell, and guitar players want to be front-men, and drummers explode, and new bands form, and old bands fade away and re-emerge years later to do farewell tour after farewell freaking tour. It is natural.

The weblogging gangs of old, the ones I felt a part of, well, they still are loosely bound, but the threads are so thin now that they are almost invisible.

It was, for a while, as if we were all fans of the punk, you see, together out there on the floor, drenched in sweat, pogoing, hurling beer cans, singing along, not really caring which band was up on the stage, just loving the hum and the throb and the tribal feeling of it all. Now it feels as if many of us have become fans of various specific bands, or have started our own and are struggling to gather our own crowds, or have decided to just keep it in the garage where it belongs, and damn having an audience. We don't have time to go to each others' gigs anymore. When everyone is in a band, there's no one left to watch the shows.

That almost inevitably leads to irrelevance, though. Survey says. You sell yourself to the record company to try and get a distribution deal, you start to watch what you say, you suck up to the Big Boys, and try to be seen in the right places with the right powder dusting your nostrils. You lose the holy fire, you start thinking in terms of 'product', you tell yourself you're going to 'change it from the inside,' but you're part of the machine now, and it's too late for you.

Okay, it might be time to try and pull the threads together, here.

Now, Dave Winer said

Aside from being primly elitist, this is just plain wrong from all sorts of angles, but I think provides a decent illustration of what I've been trying to say. Again, it helped me figure out my misgivings about the current State of The Blogs, so I thank him for saying it. So, you know, it's good, even if I think it's completely wrongheaded.

Let's look at it - first, the idea that weblogs are anything that can be expressed in one word (like 'publication'), or even in the air pocket that sits in the middle of a falsely dualistic opposition between two unrelated words (like 'party' and 'publication'), is bollocks. But never mind the bollocks, here's the wonderchicken.

What really bothers me is that Dave is generally perceived, with good reason, even by those who dislike the man, as an Elder Statesman of sorts. Hell, he's been anointed by f--king Harvard, right? What else would I expect him to say? That weblogs are like snorting coke off the bellies of teenage hookers? You can't get much further from the punk DIY ethos than Harvard, right?

I would expect, I suppose, that rather than saying 'weblogs are not X, they are Y' that he'd say 'Weblogs are whatever the hell you want them to be. Go mad with creative ferment, young ones, unleash the furies, rewrite yourselves and the world, make what you will of these tools and this time. Now, my weblog, that's a publication, not a party, but your mileage might vary.'

Perhaps that's what he meant.

Look, I agree with Dave Eggers about saying 'no' --

-- it's something that I wrote about in the sort-of eulogy I wrote for my friend Rick, who died after the Bali bomb in 2002, something that he believed, and something I have believed for many, many years too. Say yes, say it again, sing it, scream it, or get out of the way, grandpa. It was not the shouted nihilistic 'no!' that attracted me to the ideas underpinning the flowering of punk rock decades ago, it was the implied bellowed 'yes! we'll rebuild our lives the way we want them!' that I loved. And that I mourned, as it became a fashion, a commodity, and sank back underground again. But the lesson never left me.

Weblogs are a party, damn it, and sometimes they're publications too, or instead, and sometimes they're diaries, sometimes they're pieces of art, sometimes they're tools for self-promotion, sometimes they're money-maknig ventures, sometimes they're monuments to ego, sometimes they're massive wanks, sometimes they're public services, sometimes they're dedications of faith, sometimes they're communities. Always, they are a public face, one chosen and crafted to varying degrees, of the people who write them. They are avatars, masks, or revelations of our deepest selves. They are political or philosophical, merrily inebriate or sententiously sober. Do not listen to those who would tell you what they are not.

These people will destroy your soul. Classification is for insects.

My name's wonderchicken, and I am a wild party.

It is the rising current of feeling that weblogs aren't a party (or aren't journalism, or aren't a floor wax, or aren't a dessert topping), that they're something important and serious, that is seriously harshing my buzz. "Let's all take this more seriously", is the message I get from far too many these days, "because then, well, what I do must be Serious Stuff, right? We're all adults here, aren't we?"

Stop it, you bastards.

Your $500 blog conferences, your NeckFlex For President consultancies, your sad tawdry whoredances with the old media moronocracy devil, your repetitive linkery to the same tired wanna-be self-declared pundits you met at the last convention, your careful management of a media face that is, in the end, marketable, it makes me want to puke. It kills the spirit of this thing that I was so in love with, and turns it, as avarice and self-regard always does, to sh-t.

I'm not actually saying stop it, when I say stop it, of course. Do what thou wilt shall be the whole of the law, and all that. But I am regretful, and resentful, even though I know that it's inevitable. It is the way things go, in this cashed-in century.

I also know that, as with the music, those who became part of this wild whirlwind, not for fashion or self-aggrandizement, not for power or money (although perhaps for the blow-jobs and free drugs, for which, it must be said, I'm still waiting in vain), but because they had burning gods inside them that were clawing at the inside of their foreheads screaming to get out, well, they'll continue to create, and more and more they'll point and chuckle indulgently and ignore the Self-Selected and the Sententious. And the SSS will recede, blithering, from the core of the living culture, until, once again, they are irrelevant. The script-kiddies are right, you see, but only about some of us.

Punk can also be about Wittgenstein. Don't get me wrong - housewives can be punk, and librarians, priests and, crikey, even known homosexuals can be punk! Can Harvard be punk? Well, yeah, maybe it can be too. Maybe.

Jeneane suggested that the scriptkiddies enjoy more sense of community than us old compatriots do at the moment, and you know what? She's right. Why? 'Cause they're still punk, and our little revolution is being marginalized and co-opted by the climbers.

I'm not suggesting that weblogs should literally be punkrock, right? OK? Geddit? I'm just talkin' here.

I have no problem with Joi Ito either, although I point at him above -- I listened to the Chris Lydon interviews a while back, and he is someone I think I'd very much like to know, based on what he had to say. I haven't been reading his writing, much (or much of anything blogly until I started again recently, to be honest) although I do plan to start. I found myself nodding as I listened to him talking, and backtracking to listen to some bits again. I rarely do this. I'm not used to people being smarter than me. He represents a new bird, to me, and one that is punk in the best way, in the way I loved the most way back when, in the smart-as-hell Hüsker Dü kinda way. At least I hope that to be true.

In the end, it probably doesn't matter, as the wave of co-optation and consolidation swings through the communities. But what he had to say and the elegance and clarity with which he expressed it was, for example, in stark opposition to the way that Glenn Reynolds, who, although he may or may not be a plodding thud-dullard, certainly sounded like one when he parried an unwanted political observation of Chris's with 'No, no, that's...no. No. Durrrr.' Repeatedly. I imagined him with fingers in his ears, going 'nyah nyah I can't hear you'. (I exaggerate for effect, a little, perhaps.)

We could use more like Joi Ito, I reckon.

Still, there is something he wrote recently and that I am compelled to disagree with that must be woven into my story here. Joi echoed (and Shelley pushed back against) that old chestnut from Rebecca Blood (amongst other 'write better' type stuff), and proposed that those who are 'serious' about their weblogs should endeavour to write well. I say the hell with that. Write well, write badly, whatever, just create. If you are saying things that stir people, they will respond.

If you can't write well, write with such passionate muscularity that people stand back and go 'whoa!' Make things, reach out to people. If you write well, keep doing it, and get better, and don't kiss ass for personal gain. If not, just go, bash that keyboard, make a hideous, amateurish squall, one to which, if it has some kernel of glorious truthtelling, people will respond. The mass amateurization of nearly everything is good. If you're a gifted amateur, the world will beat a path to your, er, door.

But let me return now to my mention, far upstream, of how I had little love for alternato-types who pointed, all j'accuse-y, and called other people 'posers', back in the day. It is, and was, almost as lame as calling someone a 'sell-out'. It may seem that that's what I'm doing here, pointing the Big Foam Sell-Out Finger, but I'm not. I'm just stirring the pot. Things have gotten f--king boring around here lately, and some egos are way out of control, and who better than the wonderchicken to try for a little reality-distortion-field adjustment?

If David Weinberger (to pick an example) wants to shill for Dean, more power to him, by crikey! I'd give my left nut to see the Bushbot gone, too, of course, but I'm not so sure that Howard Dean is the solution. Armed insurrection, now, that might be a noble cause...anyway, I still love reading what he has to say, when I occasionally swing by JOHO. If Dave Winer wants to ponce around Harvard (as long as he's not telling me what a weblog isn't), then I say ponce away! You go, girl! If this guy thinks blogging should be all about 'creating value' and 'return on investment', well, why the hell not?

OK, on second thought, that last guy needs to be slapped in the head.

Still, my point is that even if you are puerile enough to believe that someone else 'selling out' hurts you somehow, well, that's pretty hard to justify, son. See also : nuh-uh. When someone stops fighting against the current, goes limp, and, you know, gets a hog rectum implanted where their mouth used to be, or goes the full cortical advertising-augmentation route, starts serving the Machine and wiping their chin with toilet paper, well, hey, it makes the rest of us look better by comparison, doesn't it? Hell, at least I'm not one of those pigbuttmouth people with those creepy whipcord antennas, right?

Another quote from Eggers --

And that, my friends, is Punk f--king Rock.

Punk got co-opted and marketed and corporatized, and it damn near died, as all Big Ideas do. That's not to say that small-p punk is not still alive. It is, down in the ditches, where the spirit that drove the rage has morphed and moved on and dropped back under the monkeymass radar. Music and community is being made now that might not fit so easily into the same easy label, but there are folks out there making stuff that builds on and extends the best of the punk alt-rock scene from 20 years ago and more. Some of 'em are more relevant than others, sure, but the passion's still out there. The anger, the love, the frustration, the woohoo. The party rolls on, even though the faces have changed.

Weblogging is also being co-opted and marketed and corporatized, but it won't die either. The small communities that grew out of earlier days are being diluted and voices are growing fainter, partly because of the natural life cycle of these things, and partly because there are those who are making it palatable and bland for the media moronocracy to digest, and that's what the media moronocracy wants, so that's what it gets.

Jeneane said it too, and Shelley echoed it

Although its public face may suck pretty bad for a while, and you may need to dig a bit deeper to find its soul, there will always be those in the Fields of Blog who will tell you what they really think, and some of those will move you while doing it, regardless of how well they write. And they'll do it without having to look over their shoulders. 'cause it's a f--king party, pops, and you're invited.

1:59 PM | 48 comments and 80 trackbacks.

After much deliberation, after pondering, both weak and weary, after tugging my beard like the retro-sage in a technical age that I fancy myself to be, after eating a couple of eggs boiled in spiced soy (oh, yeah, baby), I have come to the inescapable conclusion that 'Uncle f--ka' is possibly the greatest song ever written. A brief reminder of the powerful and affecting lyrics :

From the opening strains to the final testicular injunction, this piece of music speaks of humankind's chthonic impetus to understand its place in the world, to rend the veils that separate us from a direct apprehension of the divine. Perhaps Terrance and Phillip are telling us that through the f--king of uncles, a sacred understanding may be achieved. William Blake, in The Marriage of Heaven and Hell, said :

The road of excess is the road upon which Terrance and Phillip gambol and fart prodigiously, boner-biting their way to the palace of wisdom. Uncle f--kers, yes indeed, they embrace all within the scope of their gaze, with both love and scorn. Their joyous farts and caustic abuse remind us of the Rabelaisian island of Ruach,

and point with gleeful loathing thereby at our folly and failings. They f--ked their uncles yesterday, our hyperkinetic flatulent Canadian duo, reminding us of the gloomy conclusion of Ivan Karamazov: "If God is dead, all is permitted."

Is there a god who would allow uncle-f--king? Is the god who would have prevented such things indeed dead, and is all, in fact, permitted? Terrance and Phillip have no answers for us, as they caper and cut the cheese, only questions, questions with which the great minds of our civilization have wrestled for centuries, fruitlessly.

In the end, perhaps, like Neitzche, they hail the dionysian, as the true source of art, and as deliberate affront to the illusory appollonian order imposed by our minds on a chaotic universe.

Either way, as Walter Kaufmann said of Neitzche, so can we say of Terrance and Phillip, our foul-mouthed flatulent flip-top-headed Canadian friends :

Suck my balls.

7:32 AM | 5 comments

It's been exactly a year since the bombing in Bali that killed my old friend Rick Gleason and 201 other people.

Is there a statute of limitations on mourning? Should there be? If we stop feeling that skip in the heartbeat and stab in the gut when we think of someone we loved who was killed, have we stopped caring? Should guilt then rush in? Should we try to leave behind our grief, and get on with it? What is left of the dead one, a year after they've gone, in the world? What do we learn from their lives, what can we learn? What have I learned?

A year on, I wish I could say confidently that I've consciously changed my life for the better after Rick's death, taken the lessons his life and his sudden death taught me, plowed up some fertile ground. I wish that in the decisions I've made in the intervening twelve months, a reflection could be seen of some nebulous tribute to him, and the things we both believed about life. Maybe it's there, and I can't see it. When you're too close to the mountain, you can't see how high it really is.

I've lived my life with death all around me -- not in the way that the billions of poor people on this planet do, perhaps, with family members dying slowly in the corner of the shack, or ripped apart under American bombs -- but with frequent visits from the reaper, until he became a familiar presence in my life, neither feared nor hated. I have no fear of death, but I resent it, and the curtain it throws around our brief little lives.

My father died when I was about five years old, my younger brother, right in front of me, a few years later. Aunts and uncles, great- and otherwise, died with regularity through my teens, as did my dearly-loved maternal grandfather. The rest of my grandparents were gone by the time I was in my mid-twenties, and then my step-father, who'd married my mother not long after my father's death 20 years before, also died. I have friends who never lost a family member or dear friend until their mid-thirties, for whom Rick's death was a shock more singular, and I always wondered how they thought about death. Did they fear it? Do they hate it more now, or less? Do they put it from their minds, and go on with the humble daily things, keeping the stink of terror well hid?

Scars were left on me in the wake of those deaths in my young life, furrows and welts in my brain some of which are even now just working their way into the light. This is as it should be. My great and abiding love for the drink, moderated and benign as it has become in my later years, as much passed on genetically and nurtured environmentally as it may be, certainly has some roots there. My fear and loathing of the very idea of having children, absolutely. My carefully-chosen expatriate existence, yearning contrapuntally as I sometimes do for the deep, cold coniferous forests of my youth. The vigour with which I counter those who I perceive to be attacking me, yes. All of these and more. I have made my peace with the ghosts, made it many years ago, and carry my wounds with awareness and a quiet understanding that what happens is good by virtue of the sheer fact that it has happened, and that to claim otherwise and rail against our experience is to refuse life, and shrink from it. To say no, rather than yes.

But Rick's death marked me, more than I could have expected. I still feel that weightless skip in my heartbeat, that stab in the gut, when I think of him. One year on, there are more questions than ever, about what my life is to mean to me, and what it has meant. About what is important, what is indispensable, and what is good. About how to reconcile a love for individuals with a deep, heart-squeezing loathing for humanity, and particularly for the sort of people that knocked down the World Trade Centre, that set the bomb in Bali, and that ordered the invasions of Afghanistan and Iraq. About the preachers and the haters, the ideologues and the god-fearers, the killers and the martyrs, and about how deeply stupid and damaged, greedy and afraid they must be.

And in the end, of course, I'm left with more questions, and I'm left with a rising knot of choking rage and resentment that I consciously push down, squeeze back, and try to transform into something useful, into words and actions that don't feed the killer monkeys, that keep the bloody chaos at bay, and I'm not usually very successful.

I said this, about 18 months ago, long before my friend's death :

and I suppose I still believe it to be true.

But Rick's murder marked me, more perhaps and nearer the surface than any death I've lived past since I was very young. I suppose I am a better man because of that mark. I would be a happier man, and one less uncertain and questing, if it had not happened. Would that Rick were still walking around in his loose-limbed way, falling in love at the drop of a hat, laughing and drinking and seeing. Would that he could share a drink with me tonight.

But that is not the way it happened, and I'm still not sure of how to live with that.

11:45 AM | 13 comments and 2 trackbacks.

The sound that is made when you are biting through your own flesh is a little like that of thick rubber being torn. It's wetter, and when you hear it inside your head, it's kind of terrifying.

I bit a hole about the size of a dime deep into the top of my tongue, near the centre, the other day. I don't know how the hell I managed to do it. I was eating some soon-dae (potato noodles spiced and stuffed into pig intestines, with boiled, sliced organ meat on the side - tastier than it sounds) when suddenly the molars on the right side of my mouth met a bit more resistance, there was that odd sound, loud enough that my wife beside me started and stared, and the hot, salty flood started. No pain, not right away.

I went to the bathroom and let a mouthful of blood pour out -- a real Wes Craven moment, which made me once again wish we could afford that digital camera I want -- and had a look. Great meaty flap, deep hole, reddish-black blood gushing out. Cool.

I hate doctors, so I applied ice and didn't eat for a few days. The nub of flesh that pokes up out of the scar and the crater beneath it will be with me for life, I suspect. This is, in its way, good.

The sound that the small bones in your foot make when they break are not so much a crunch as a crack, startlingly loud. About 3 months back, I drove the corner of a doorjamb between my third and fourth toes on my left foot as I walked calmly into the bedroom to get the ironing board. Broke both toes, and a couple of bones in my foot as well, judging by feel. I did the 'apply pressure/apply ice/elevate above your heart' routine to minimize swelling, and bound the toes together.

I hate doctors, so I self-medicated, went back to work the next day, and limped around for the next 6 weeks or so while my foot slowly changed colour. I don't think some of the bones set properly, and the area is still a little tender if I poke or prod it the wrong way. This is, in its way, a valuable reminder to watch where the hell I'm walking.

I'm not sure precisely what led me to my wholehearted loathing of the medical profession, although I do have a few ideas as to the antecedents.

My hometown, an island of a couple of thousand brave and drunken souls isolated in a sea of trees way up in the part of British Columbia where the map merely notes 'Here Be Monsters,' was served by an odd, sullen, ragtag crew of medical practitioners over the years I grew up there. Most were South African, and were bound by contract to be there in order to get their residency in Canada. How much our town benefitted from the Immigration Department requirements that doctors migrating to Canada spend their first few years dealing with family violence and alcohol-related injury in the Boonies was debatable, perhaps. Still, they were a novelty, with their funny accents and poorly disguised, simmering resentment.

I particularly remember one Vietnamese doctor who was, in fact, one of my favorites (and a rarity in a town where there was precisely one Asian family - the Chinese folks who ran two of the half-dozen restaurants), and who, thanks to his redneck comedy gold inability to pronounce /r/ and /l/ according to my expectations, precipitated one of the funniest conversations in which I have retrospectively been involved when he handed the 10-year-old me a plastic cup and a small wooden ice-cream spoon and asked for what I swore was a 'stew' sample.

One of the various medical mistakes, blunders, and life-threatening f--kups (back before the first thing I did upon injuring myself was Google up some advice) that I was either the victim of or a witness to was, for example, my bottomless prescription for tetracycline (a broad-spectrum antibiotic) as a teenager, intended to combat the Aetna-shaming eruptions that my face and body produced. Not on-and-off, but on, for years, nonstop. My body, strong as it is, is still paying the price for that. And this was in the early 80's - not before medical thought had come around to understanding that continual massive doses of antibiotics might just have a deleterious effect on the patient overall.

My step-father, who pulled Dad Duty from not long after my father died until about 20 years later, died, I am certain, as a direct result of the interactions in the cocktail of drugs prescribed by his doctors -- by this time another ragtag gaggle of Africans, mostly -- but not after going quite mad beforehand. Or if not bibbledy-bibbledy mad, so far sunk into full blown paranoid delusions that it was painful to carry on a conversation with him on anything but the most trivial matters.

My current step-father, 'Ol' Number 3,' a tough, boozy, no-bullsh-t ex-cowboy, experienced runaway heart fibrillations and tremors and pitty-patting for more than four months this year, to the extent that any kind of physical labor would sometimes make him lose consciousness. This was deeply embarrassing to him, and made life extremely difficult for him and my mother. He visited the docs over and over again, several times a week, a situation made more difficult by the 140 km of unpaved road between the fishing lodge where my folks live and the nearest town. Bamboozled, they merely scratched their heads in confusion, and ordered more tests. Finally, after months of this, unable to take it any longer, he just stopped taking his meds (including the new ones the doctors had prescribed), and the problem simply went away.

(There are more stories, and I'm sure you have a few too. C'mon - share!)

To hell with doctors. They can keep their pills and their guesswork. Unless I need a limb sewn back on, I'll be taking care of myself. This attitude draws great chagrin from the wife, who is a big believer in the power of The Doctor, like most Koreans I've known, who tend to run in panic to the nearest doctor (and Korean doctors are a worry in and of themselves, let me tell you) if something flies out of their noses when they sneeze.

I tell her that whatever doesn't kill me makes me stronger. I'm certain, as she shakes her head in annoyed bemusement, that in her mind she replaces 'stronger' with 'stupider.'

I can live with that.

1:58 PM | 11 comments

I learned an important lesson about living in Korea today, and I learned it at the point of a gun, which may just make it stick for a while, for a change.

Most people who come to Korea to teach, whether at a hakwon (the catch-all term for the private-study schools that can be found literally 10 to a city block, catering to the monomania not for quality but quantity of education here in Korea, many of which specialize in English and employ most of the short-termers in Korea), or a university or foreign school, or in-house at a company, or somewhere else entirely... most of them are provided with housing.

This is, few actually realize, mandated by the legislation controlling E-2 (English Teacher) visas. Which is not to say that this legislation is universally obeyed ('rule of law' not being a concept that has caught on to any great extent in Korea thus far), of course, but it goes some way to explaining why the feared-and-loathed, almost invariably dishonest and money-grubbing hakwon owners actually do something that does not financially reward them in any tangible way. That is, provide housing for their English Monkeys.

There are some decent private schools around, and a fair number of goodish universities, at least in terms of working conditions, and they do occasionally provide their foreign employees with reasonable accommodation. Some very few go one better, and provide housing that is very comfortable indeed. This is the exception, rather than the rule, naturally.

Back when I was a bachelor in the mighty metropolis of Busan†, I lived for nearly two years -- although I was working for one of the better schools -- in a 3 metre by 4 metre closet in which there was room for a bed, desk, fridge, (and a few dozen empty bottles, of course), located right beside a textile factory. By right beside, I mean that my one window looked directly into a window on the factory floor, about 18 inches away. Right beside.

[†I liked it better when Busan was romanized as Pusan, and pronounced Poosan by foreigners, 'san' being the Chinese character meaning 'mountain', and I could thus refer to the city as 'Poo Mountain' and actually be able to explain why without being quite as longwinded as I am right now. 'Boo Mountain' just doesn't have the same sophomoric poop-humour ring to it.]

The chatter of hundreds of sewing machines didn't actually bother me much, as I was too regularly and fully inebriated at that point in my life to care, and rarely at 'home' other than to sleep, anyway. Life was good, in a dissipated and decadent, perpetually-sozzled sort of way. It was the last gasp of a bachelorhood that was becoming less amusing, rapidly.

The last couple of years, though, have seen my wife (who I met as I was leaving behind that rocket-fueled lifestyle) in the lap of relative luxury, in Australia, and after our return to Korea, in the two large, brand-new apartments which were provided by the university where I worked until recently.

The other reason for schools to offer accommodation when you take a job with them -- the one that people usually assume to be the primary one -- is that it is effectively impossible to find your own, as a non-Korean. This is in part a manifestation of the blithe racism that informs much of mercantile Korea's dealings with us hairy barbarians, and in part a reasonable response to the infamous behaviour exhibited by most GIs and many young, inebriate, wacked-out English teachers (of which I was once one, with a vengeance). Stereotypes exist for a reason, after all. Not what you'd call most-favoured tenant types, most non-executive expats in Korea. If you're married to a Korean, yes, but alone : nuh-uh, unless you want to rent a room in one of the ubiquitous yogwan f--k-hotels on a monthly basis, which many single guys do.

I've known some of them, guys who were capable of ignoring the nasty omnipresent fug of stale semen and cut-rate detergent, the dim green and pink lighting (creating that ambience of a festive abbatoir that just screams romance) and the weekend puddles of pinkish kimchi vomit in the hallway, the drunken screams and shouts from 11 pm to perhaps 3 or 4 am each and every night from the short-timers. Better than we deserve, though, I'm sure.

So when my contract wasn't up for renewal (for reasons that boiled down to my lack of over-demonstrative lovin' for the baby jesus™, basically) last month, it was a particularly stressful time, as I was forced not only to look for other work, which would then allow me to get a visa, but to do so before the beginning of September, in order for us to actually have somewhere to live (and put our worryingly large collection of furniture).

The right job didn't materialize, and in between our chicken-little panic-stricken thoughts of bailing to Canada, or Mexico, or Thailand, or anywhere, really, we decided the cheapest and wisest option was just for me to do a visa run to Japan (Canadians get 6 month tourist visas here, on entry) and come back, and to rent our own house. That sounds blindingly obvious to the good people out there in Normal, Illinois, I know, but being locked into the mindset of job=visa=house, it really hadn't occurred to us. Plus, I was kind of keen on hitting the beach somewhere, somewhere other than Korea. She Who Must Be Obeyed had predictable thoughts on that idea, unfortunately, and the plan was dismissed out of hand.

So we wandered hither and thither and even over yon a bit, looking for places to live, even as I was going to first and second interviews with likely employers and finding them all wanting, in one aspect or another. Seoul, for those of you who might wonder, is not small. Hither is about 3 hours from yon, and thither is another couple of hours beyond that.

Anyone who's been reading the 'bottle for any length of time knows how much I loathed the industrial nightmare of an area where we used to live, nuts deep in garbage and banana-peel-slipping-around on the constellations of comedy throat oysters horked up by the denizens of Gunpo City, south of Seoul, near Suwon. It was true that most of the other places around the city and its skirts that we looked were somewhat nicer, but mostly only in degree. Unpleasant, of course, but less so. Not precisely enticing, particularly when I had been thinking along the lines of Koh Samui or Whistler or Zihuatanejo.

Until we found the area we're living now. I'm telling you, angels descended and blew their tinny trumpets in my ears (not unlike the appearance of the choir invisible when I first used an electronic bumrocket bidet machine in Japan on my subsequent visa run) when we started looking around here. It is the first place -- anywhere in Korea -- that I've seen that shows evidence of actual urban planning, where things are built on an almost-human scale, neither crowded together like barnacles nor consisting of massive slabs of concrete looming over massive courtyards of concrete, brutalist Pyongyang penile-surrogate stylee. No, this area was clearly designed for cyclists and walkers as well as cars, and isn't outright antagonistic to its residents, unlike most other places in Seoul I've been.

Seoul is a city (like every other urban environment in Korea) that hates its residents.

I could tell this suburb was different, though, as soon as we'd walked around a bit. About as far to the west of downtown as we were to the south in Gunpo, I saw the full bike-racks beside the subway station (something I'd never seen before in Korea, as there are few cyclists in most places, it being simply too dangerous and heavily trafficked to bother) and tree-lined paths winding through each block, expressly for pedestrians. Trees everywhere, in fact, not just on top of the fortunate stubs of mountains that hadn't yet been leveled to feed into grinders and rise again as the vast human beehives where 70% of the population of the country live. Wide, straight roads. And, astonishingly, people who didn't perform the 'oh-my-god-he's-not-Korean' doubletake that had left me so unwilling to dare set foot outside our apartment for the last couple of years.

Even my wife, who's spent almost her entire 31 years in Korea, said she didn't know there were places like this here.

So we found an apartment, in one of the newer style buildings that have started springing up all over Korea, geared to singles and young couples, called 'Officetels' in Konglish. Basically -- and completely unlike the standard, cookie-cutter 'apart' concrete beehive family apartment buildings that rise everywhere out the earth like buboes on a plague victim -- they're like western-style apartment buildings, down to the gardens on the roof, the hot-water-on-demand, and the emphasis on sky-light, and air, and brightly lit cleanliness.

We found a small loft, with west-facing 4 metre windows taking up one entire wall, and rather than sucking car-exhaust from the perpetually-roaring highway that was behind our first apartment, or looking straight into the baby-factory slum windows over which our second apartment had a glorious low-rise, low-rent panorama, I can watch the sun go down out over towards the West Sea. I honestly never thought we'd live in such a lovely place, here in Korea. I hadn't thought they existed, except for the rich in downtown Seoul, and on TV. We gave our huge fridge and washing machine to the wife's bachelor brother, and left some furniture in the apartment for the new (cheaper and more malleable, more bible-thumping) university hire to use (rather than just chuck it all), and moved on up. To the top. To a deluxe apartment. In the sky-eye-eye.

It's no Sydney, or Vancouver -- hell it's not even Toronto -- but it's pretty nice.

One of the only good points of our previous university-supplied place, other than the fact that we were first to live there and thus didn't need to deal with filth, was the proximity of a small mountain ridge, up and along which we (and thousands of others, it seemed) could walk, escaping the apocalyptic vision, if not the all-pervasive noise, of the concrete wasteland that is Gunpo. That was pleasant, and walking there in unaccustomed green along the trail that wound its way a few kilometres along the ridge was enough to recharge my batteries, at least when there weren't too many shrieking, pudgy children up there too, dragged away from their computers and compelled to exercise by their parents.

The new area, Songnae, has a few wooded mini-mountains within walking distance as well, and I resolved today, after failing to find my way through a military base to a likely trail at another nearby mountain to the west, last week, to attempt to find my way up the even closer megahillock to the south. The wife begged off, and I headed out, with my usual lack of preparation. I crossed the subway tracks - on the surface, this far from downtown - and wandered around for a good hour before I found a trail that led upwards.

The weather has been flawless for a good week after a miserable summer - unsmoggy blue skies, dotted with fluffy cumuli, hot sun cool shade. It was gorgeous today; the sun spattered through the leaves as the wide trail wound its way up to higher heights, at a much steeper grade than our old daily walk in Gunpo. I got past the thundering-heart first ten minutes, and fell into the euphoric groove that exercise almost always brings, when I'm out in nature, senses heightened, brain clear. There were only a couple of people around, trudging down as I headed up. Past small plots of vegetables the trail rose, and soon became almost alpine, studded with those massive, rounded rocks protruding from that tightly-packed, cafe latte-coloured dirt that always make me think of Korea and Japan. The perfume of pines baking in sunlight. I was happier than I have been in a while, and it was good.

I reached the first summit, and there were a number of smaller trails heading off from the glade atop the ridge, wandering off to various points of the compass. Thinking one might lead to a vantage point unscreened by greenery, where I could get a good look at the geography of our new home, I struck out along one of the paths, towards the sinking sun. I realize now that that military base I'd been unable to find my way around last week was to the west, too. You know, the direction I was walking.

After about 5 minutes of blissed-out traipsing along the trail, all Homer-in-Chocolate-Land, and before I quite knew what was happening, there were shouts in Korean, and as I abruptly came back to earth, I noticed in quick succession that: the clearing ahead of me had a tall chicken- and barbed-wire fence along it, that there various dishes and antennae and stuff behind that, and that the half dozen camo-clad Korean men approaching at a trot were all carrying weapons that I could only presume were automatic.

My crappy command of Korean being what it is, I had no idea what they were saying, but from their tone I could infer that they weren't asking me in for a cup of tea. They were young, of course -- just the age of many of my university students, and no doubt doing their two years of compulsory military service and quite happy to have pulled light duty sitting on top of a mountain somewhere. Nonetheless, their excitement coupled with their tendency to gesticulate with their guns was making me a wee bit nervous, I have to admit. In response to what I thought was an inquiry as to precisely what the f--k I was doing, I shrugged, and made the two-fingers-walking gesture, which in conjunction with a goofy grin and vacant swinging of the head, as if communing with butterflies, was what I hope was the universal sign-language for 'just, you know, wandering around, being a nature-boy doofus'.

They peppered me with more questions in Korean, none of which I understood sufficiently to make any attempt at answering, in sign-language or otherwise, and eventually the eldest, who couldn't have been more than 25 or so, said "OK" quite clearly, waved the back of his hand in the general direction of the trail along which I'd been walking, and said something in Korean which, near as I could tell translated roughly to "Get the f--k outta here, and you're lucky we don't arrest your ass. Sir."

I got the f--k out, and continued my walk, no worse for wear, up into the almost-alpine and the green, blue and white, being extra-careful to stick to the main trail.

And so, my lesson for the day, one that all Koreans seem to learn at some point: stray from the well-trodden path at your own peril, smart boy. A lesson that came complete with a moderately-sized brown spot in my boxers, for punctuation.

3:40 PM | 7 comments and 1 trackback

Part One can be found here.

Back to the capsule hotel I went, almost skipping with glee. I dropped my shoes in a locker this time, dropped the locker key at the front desk, retrieved my wristband key from one of the desk clerks, and rode the Super Fun Luxury Lift to the 6th floor. I figured I'd drink a couple of Asahis, then go exploring.

Back at the room, I closed the accordion door, climbed the metal ladder into my top-bunk capsule, leaned back, switched on the TV that protruded organically from the plastic wall of my coffin, cracked a can, took a deep and almost orgasmically satisfying pull of my long-anticipated Asahi, set it down on the little extruded-plastic shelf to my right, grinned and sighed.

Pushing a little metal chicklet set into the airliner-like control panel cycled me through the TV channels on my 7-inch monitor. There were a couple of scrambled stations in the line-up, tantalizing, flickering shards of heaving pink and purple meat, the audio tracks for which were subdued sighs, gutteral man-grunts, and the occasional squelch. Either the Abbatoir Channel, or The Legendary Japanese Porn, apparently. The girl at the front desk hadn't been taught how to say 'You want porn with that?' in English, I guess. I was briefly disappointed, but I figured drinking and smoking were vices enough for a short 12 hours in-country. No big deal, and although I can't say that I wasn't curious, I also wasn't curious enough to go down to the desk and ask, possibly in pantomime, please may I have some porno?

I spent the first beer fiddling with switches (something from which it is apparently in my genetic code to derive great pleasure), channel-surfing, adjusting the air-con nozzle just-so, and the second beer watching some kind of top-20 countdown of neat shops and restaurants in (I believe) Tokyo.

It was time to explore a bit, I reckoned. Also, I had to take a crap. You know how that is.

There were a few more guys around, sitting in front of the pedestal ashtrays in the smoking lounge near the elevators and getting drinks from the vending machines, than there had been before, and they were all wearing identical pajamas. Ding! A light went on, and I suddenly realized what that pile of cloth had been, the one I'd dumped on the tiny desk in the room in my rush to climb up into the capsule and play around. I went back to my cubicle, stripped down to my boxers, and put on the 3/4 length jammy bottoms and v-neck top. They actually fit pretty well, which surprised the hell out of me. I am not a small man, and I've been lifting weights again for the last couple of months.

Suitably attired, and feeling like a million bucks, I made my way back to the toilets. You could have eaten off them. No, seriously. If there's anything I like better than a cold beer, it's a clean bathroom. I blame my mother for this minor quirk. She's a very clean lady.

Attached to the side of the porcelain pot was one of those electronic bidet machines that are getting so popular in Korea, but that everyone (or possibly just me, I don't know) associates with weird Japanese poophole fetishism. I'd never used one, although I'd tried the low-tech variety of bidet in Europe when I was travelling there, with, shall we say, mixed results, usually involving too-cold water and Extreme Scrotum Tightening. ("Next up on ESPN : EXtreme Scrotum Tightening! Brought to you by Asahi Beer!")

I was feeling adventurous, and mildly euphoric from the first couple of Very Large Cans. After nature had taken its course, I centred myself, as it were, chose a button at random, and pressed it.

Wahhhh-ahhhhh! The angelic choir descended, I'm telling you. The portal to a new world opened briefly, as water warmed to a perfectly refreshing temperature cascaded and burbled playfully around my grateful sphincter. It was pure bliss, for about 20 seconds.

Aware that it would sound a bit strange (and that I might be arrested) if I were to just sit there and hit that button over and over again for the next several hours, like the wirehead monkey hitting the button for the electrical jolt to his pleasure centre, oblivious to the world, I reluctantly patted dry and padded out, casting wistful glances back at the stall. Maybe I'd need to do a #2 again later. Maybe. Hopefully.

Walking with a new spring in my step, I hopped on the elevator, and rode up to the 11th floor. As expected, the shower facilities were well-stocked with towels and lotions and unguents of all sorts, spotlessly clean, and brightly lit, in a welcoming, warmly incandescent kind of way. Not only that, but there was a sauna, all marble pools and steam and cascading water, which I vowed to try in the morning, if I had time.

The restaurant on the floor below was similarly excellent in appearance, with a bar and a menu card chock-a-block with enticing-looking dishes.
I had an appointment with 6 more rapidly warming cans of beer, though, and beer trumps food, always. Besides, the shouted greetings from the employees anytime someone came in the door, as in Korea, put me off.

Back in my capsule, butthole absolutely singing, I cracked another can, and switched the TV on. It was about almost 9pm by this point, and although I had to get up in less than 9 hours, get on a flight back to Seoul and convince immigration that they should let me in again with no visible means of support, I was feeling frisky, if not frisky enough to do anything but drink in bed.

That's when Japan suddenly became the Greatest Country In The World, a status for which, in my mind at least, it had already been building a good case for candidacy.

There was a show on for about an hour that involved really goofy costumes, senseless violence, public humilation, sumo wrestlers, fat guys dressed like sumos wearing Elvis wigs and riding motorcycles in quarries, more random violence, and it was the funniest.thing.evar. No, really. Dumber than dumb, but beautifully so, if you know what I mean. One segment involved one of the fat shameless guys wearing a radio earpiece and acting out the instructions of his controllers in front of a department store, which would be less funny and more of The Usual TV Crap if the people watching weren't Japanese. That somehow made it comedy gold for me, as did the fact that half the time you almost couldn't see the poor guy through the crowds of onlookers, every single one of whom was pointing their mobile phone camera at him, snapping digital pics like no tomorrow. I laughed until tears came, and that doesn't happen often, dour bastard that I usually am.

But for all the fun inherent in that program, the moment of truth came afterwards. This is primetime Saturday night, keep in mind. The show, which lasted two hours or more (things got a bit fuzzy there towards the end), was called The Poetry Bout.

It was a tournament, with the loser of each two-person bout knocked out and progressing to the next round, of Poetry Reading. Poetry! On a Saturday night! On TV, with flawless high production values, in front of a rapt and appreciative live crowd! With (what I presume were) celebrity judges and just-plain-folks, singly and in groups, in bars and homes, butchershops and schools and street-food places all over the country, via live video, giving their own commentary and votes for the winners of each round. The contestants were anywhere in age from middleschool to retiree, male and female, some eliciting laughter, some tears, some a kind of liquid silence, all clearly in love with language.

It was riveting. I didn't understand a goddamned word, but I was glued to the set, rooting for my favorites, for a couple of hours and several more of those Very Large Beers. As the winners of the preliminary rounds went on to challenge winners of other heats, I began to become familiar with their style, and was surprised for example when a happy funster would change strategy, and pull a change-up with a poem all serious and heartfelt, instead. This, the beer was telling me, was the way poetry was meant to be appreciated - not on the page, all dismembered and nullified with dead-soul dissection, but as music, incomprehensible, glorious music, in front of a crowd that laughs and cries and farts along with the poet.

And, you know (apologies in advance to Dan, if you read this), I f--king hate poetry sometimes, unless it's being subverted by someone like Buk. This is how much I liked this show.

The final round, although some of the oldsters and art college types had put in a good showing, was between a teenage boy and a teenage girl. She, I think, for no real reason that I can tell, was the better poet, but he frequently made his listeners both laugh and shed a tear in a single poem, and, although shy and involuted, was clearly their favorite.

When it was over, I had to go out to the lounge and smoke a cigarette, and think about what I'd seen. It seemed to me if as I'd seen something about Japan, no doubt glamourized and stage-managed and cheapened in the way that television does, but something that I had not expected. I couldn't imagine the same thing happening, or being watched, in Korea, where the fake, the maudlin and the sentimental trump the real as a matter of policy, and though that's what Canada may be like in my distant, half-fantasy memories of the place, I know for truth that the latest tits-and-explosions import from America is more likely to be greeted with enthusiasm there.

This wasn't a niche show, for intellectuals and fruitbats - there were people from all walks of life watching this thing, cheering and high-fiving, of all ages, and it didn't look like they were doing it to the insistent flashing of APPLAUSE prompters, either.

I stayed up, smoking in the lounge and finishing my last couple of beers, and thought about it a bit, and decided that I would have to write about it, start writing yet again, because, damn it, I realized that I wanted to be one of those poets too, up in that ring, and I wanted to try and make people laugh and cry with my words.

And so here I am, back in the saddle. I hope you like my poem.

3:07 PM | 22 comments and 2 trackbacks.

Japan rocks.

No, really. I have a few friends, virtual and otherwise, over there, and they are quick to jump up the ass of anyone who's drunk the kool-aid and open their umbrellas. You know the type of travel-fanboys I mean, and my friends love to hate - men, mostly, who go to or end up in Japan to find something that they're missing for some reason, something they can't find wherever they are. These guys tend to fall in love - with the mythos, with a woman, with the culture, with the history, ex post facto or otherwise - and either sooner or later begin to buy into the casual Japanese certitude that the Japanese are just better than you. Better, stronger, faster, with tentacle and dismemberment porn that makes the next best tentacle and dimemberment porn offerings look like Curious George Goes To The Hospital. These fellows tend, in time, to become those annoyingly smug expats-in-Asia who are determined to overlook anything unpleasant in their adopted home, to blame the outsider, to spout platitudes that regardless of their high-minded elegance come down to 'it's not better or worse, it's merely different.' You know - the kinds of guys you want to bust in the f--king chops half the time, if only because they speak the language better than you do.

So, anyway, these friends of mine who've been in Japan for many years, they tend to have little patience for the kind of rah! rah! Japanophilia that I'm about to display, and for that I am profoundly sorry. All I can say is that I only spent somewhat more than 12 hours there, and the bulk of that was while I was slightly inebriated, so how much of the bad stuff could I reasonably have seen? I haven't drunk the kool-aid, but I did drink the beer.

After getting rectally roto-rootered by my last employer and not finding another reasonable job before the contract term expired, I had to make a visa run and come back on a tourist visa, and the cheapest flight I could get was to Fukuoka. Sitting at the superb, gleaming new Incheon international airport, I noticed a flyer from Onse Telecom that said that wireless broadband was available in many of the departure gates, and if you didn't have a laptop to take advantage of it, you could just come over to the desk and they'd give you one, for free.

This I promptly did, handing over my passport and getting a snazzy Samsung laptop in return. Good deal. I went back downstairs to the Burger King beside Gate 30, bought my first greaseburger in a few months, fired up the computer, and went surfing. I tried searching a bit for some hotels,but quickly got bored and just figured it would be groovier to do my usual trick from back in my backpacker days : show up with no pre-planning whatsoever, and see where the fates and random quantum flux took me. Instead of being prudent, I spent the next while posting snarky comments at Metafilter, until boarding time. It was about 4:30 pm, and my return flight was for 9 am the following morning.

A bumpy 90 minutes or so later, through red-lit thunderheads and millefeuille nimbostratus, across gut-levitating canyons of air - my favorite part of flying, those landscapes of cloud - we were glidepathing down into clean, green Fukuoka. It was overcast there, too, and more than 30 degrees, but I was pleased as I stepped out of the plane to find the air free of that horrendous fug to which one grudgingly becomes accustomed in Seoul.

I made my way through customs - the guy finding it odd that I only had an overnight bag, and amused when he found my two cup ramyeon packages inside - and straight to the hotel booking desk. Everyone on the various fora I'd checked before I'd left had said that the women who staffed that desk spoke excellent English, and were invariably helpful.

The girl there spoke English alright, but, in that annoyingly reticent way in which the Japanese break bad news, informed me that there wasn't a single goddamn room left in the whole city.

Ah, sh-t.

She gave me a list to try and call myself, and after a few unsuccessful attempts punctuated by those pregnant silences that I was already starting to figure out were the Japanese equivalent of 'sorry, buddy, you're screwed,' I figured I'd just have to wing it.

The shuttle bus to the domestic terminal, the subway two stops to Hakata, the centre of the action in Fukuoka.

By this time I was feeling a bit gritty-eye tired, sweaty, grumpy and increasingly sure that I was going to end up sleeping in a seat at the airport and looking like a rumpled rummy when I tried to get back into Korea the next morning. I'd done worse, years back when I had the youthful energy for travel hijinks of that sort, but these days I'm more into the Good Sleep than the Amusing Anecdote.

So I started walking around Hakata Station. The first five hotels I dragged my ass into knew what I was going to ask before I asked, and were already shaking their heads, politely, by the time I'd gotten to the desk and asked it. The two guys behind the desk at the sixth actually chuckled a bit at my stupidity - by this time I was drenched, both in sweat and by the steady rain that had started to fall, red-faced and getting extremely grumpy indeed - and I was about ready to give up and try the 5-Star (and probably more expensive than my plane ticket) Hotel Nikko.

I went into the 7-11 on the corner, bought a pack of cigarettes, and had my first sober smoke in more than three years. That helped.

As I did so, I noticed that the place across the sidestreet from me was a lobby of some sort - Hotel Cabinas Fukuoka, it said! 'Cabinas? Capsule hotel? Yes! I've been wanting to stay in one of those since I first heard about them!' thought I. I looked around for about 5 minutes trying to find somewhere to get rid of the cigarette butt - the streets were clean, and I was damned if I was going to mess them up by doing anything worse than dripping sweat on them - and then shuffled, chafing and praying, into the lobby.

One of the girls at the desk took one look as I stumbled into the lobby and - politely, mind you - said 'Shoes...shoes please!'

Great. My first faux pas already. You were supposed to take your shoes off at the front door, before you even got into the lobby! That would have made more sense in Korea, where horking up throat oysters on the street is an Olympic-level sport, and wearing your mucous-encrusted shoes inside would definitely be unhygienic...but fair enough. I backed up to the door, quickly, mumbling 'sorry, sorry' while the couple of Japanese guys in pajamas in the lobby eyed me suspiciously for a moment or two, then went back to their newspapers.

I took off my shoes, came back to the desk. "Do you have any...umm...spaces?"

I almost kissed her when she said "Of course!" and pulled out a laminated menu showing two kinds of capsules - one in a little room of its own, and one set into a locker-like bank of them, 2 high. Even the 'deluxe' was well under the price I had expected to pay for lodging, and I immediately and gratefully pointed to the bigger one. It was 4300 yen - about $50 for the night, Canadian. Woohoo! There's some beer money, right there, thought I.

She took my details and my cash, showed me the locker room off to the side of the check-in desk where I could put my shoes, gave me a plastic wristband with a key attached, told me about the sauna and showers on the 11th floor and the restaurant on the 10th, and wished me a pleasant stay, all in accented but excellent English. She was prettier than heck, too. Things were looking up.

This place, I neglected to mention, was nicer than most $200 a night places I've seen in Korea. Brightly lit, impeccably, spotlessly, surgically, clean, brand new. I'm a sucker for luxury - even faux luxury, to be honest - and although this was to all intents and purposes budget accommodation, cheaper than anywhere else I'd heard of in that city, it was nice. Really, really nice.

I took the elevator to the 6th floor, and through a set of glass doors was a set of corridors lined with capsule-rooms. Each one was a tiny hotel room, basically, with a folding, accordian door panel. Inside were a desk, built into a closet unit, and a capsule unit either in the top or the bottom. Mine was set into the top.

The capsule itself was a single piece, injection-molded plastic coffin, with a video screen, alarm clock and radio, aircon control, speakers behind either ear, and amidst a profusion of knobs and switches, a large red button labelled in Japanese only, that I thought of as the 'ejection button,' and was sorely tempted to press, later that evening.

I pulled shut the accordion door, doffed my sweat-soaked business shirt and tie - I always fly with a tie, and find it helps to smooth my way through immigration - pulled on my old friend's band ('MARY') t-shirt, and went on the hunt for beer. Nobody even looked at me. No stares, no 'Oh my god - it's a foreign devil' in the local lingo, no double takes or furtive muttering and pointing. None of the stuff, in other words, that I live with every time I leave the house in Korea.

I walked around for a bit, and marvelled at the cleanliness and order of the area. This was beside the biggest station in the city, bus and subway, the sort of area you'd expect to be heavy with The Scuzz, but it was downright pretty, by night at least. I imagined living there, and somehow managed to do so, as I often do, without concurrently entertaining any discouraging notions of work or budgetary constraints or anything of the kind. In my 'let's imagine that I live here' games that I unfailingly engage in whenever I happen onto somewhere nice, reality rarely intrudes.

Back to the station I wandered, after that short look around, and although none of the 7-11ish convenience stores had had any beer to sell, to my transient chagrin, and there were none of the vending machines I'd heard so much about, there was a little hole-in-wall place that had a cooler full of beer, that I somehow navigated to flawlessly once I'd booted up the beer-radar, as if I'd been following the map to the Pirate Treasure. Big black gothic-font beery 'X'.

I am inordinately fond of Japanese beer, especially Asahi. I'd been all a-drool all day thinking about it, after endless months of choking down the Korean swill that passes for lager there. I bought Eight Very Large Cans, just to be sure. Better to have too much than too little is my thinking when it comes to such things. The girl behind the counter didn't even bat an eye. I was beginning to love Japan by this point, with a love deep and true.

As I left the station, there was a band busking outside the entrance. It is possible that my recent successes in securing lodging and sweet sweet beverages was rosying up my outlook a bit, but i swear they were the best band I'd heard in years. This judgement may also have been due in no small part to the fact that they were also the first band I'd heard in years. (There are no buskers in Korea, good, bad or otherwise. Beggars, yeah, who somehow can afford mobile freaking karaoke machines into which they wail their maudlin songs, lying prone on the ground, wrapped in black rubber, presumably entreating passers-by to give them some money so they'll shut the f--k up. Never mind, I'm getting sidetracked...) A friend was passing out flyers, and they were called Chaba, and their website is here. After a couple of songs, a couple of cops came up and good-naturedly shut them down, and though I was tempted to follow them and listen some more, I had a whole bunch of cold beer gently sweating in a plastic bag, and I was thirstier than hell, and had to be on an airplane in approximately 13 hours.

Part Two, in which I wear pajamas, drink beer and listen to Prime Time Poetry in a language I don't speak, and love it, is here.

6:01 PM | 24 comments and 8 trackbacks.

You ended up working for people you hated, and you found the massive inflow of cash thrilling but completely unrewarding. You felt like you had pissed away years of your life building some inconsequential piece of software that would never see the light of day anyway. You felt an urge to actually do things for people, to do something that might leave a mark of some kind on someone. On anyone. Something that felt real, or at least realer than the corporate office-politics circle jerk that had turned your sense of work as play into a daily grind as your friends quit, or were made redundant, or just gave up and waited for the foundering ship to finally sink. Endurance counts the most, Bukowski always said, but you were just too damn tired of spinning your wheels 80 hours a week, and getting shunted to the sidelines by incompetent technocrats who felt threatened by you. So you left your freakishly high-paying job, in one of the most beautiful cities in the world. People thought you had taken leave of your senses.

And you went back to a place you had publicly reviled, a place you'd spent hours (days? weeks? months?) complaining about, a place in which the swarming multitude of infuriating details that assaulted your senses on a daily basis had driven you to drink for all the wrong reasons, a place where in weaker moments you felt sure that you'd had some of the life drained out of you, unrecoverable, into the smoggy night. But to a job teaching again, chasing the noble dream again, at a university, poorly-paid, yes, but where you could make a difference, you thought, where you might see in the eyes of your students that your labours were appreciated, that you would, at least by a few, be remembered. Where much of your time would be your own, and you could stretch out, grow your mind, cultivate your soul.

Dreamer. Pretty soon, predictably, you grew weary of that, too, and wondered what the hell would ever make you content.

And now, there's an offer on the table to go back, reverse the clock, and join the racing rats once again. You're sorely tempted, and you are annoyed with yourself for being so easily led. And afraid that if you don't grab the ring again, don't say yes each and every time to the possibilities life offers you, that life will stop offering you those chances, fold closed the kimono, and it will all be over.

And you realize, in your confusion and doubt, that all you really want is to go back to that bamboo hut - the one in Fiji, or the one on Flores, or the one on the Caribbean coast of Quintana Roo, or the one you have kept in your mind like a mantra manifested since you first hurled yourself out on the road - the one on the new-moon arc of powdery sand, beneath the coconut palms, the one you've dreamed about over and over again. You can almost picture yourself sitting there again, deeply tanned, drinking a beer, the good hot smell of your own baked-off sweat, the dried-seawater tautness of your skin, natty dread, nothing going through your mind other than the colour blue, a deep and throbbing hum, and a set of gentle animal hungers. In the moment.

And then the phone rings.

4:52 AM | 7 comments and 1 trackback

This is the action-packed Part One of my long-promised review of Hangul, the Korean writing system. Even with the liberal lashings of foul language and obscene anecdotes, it may bore the tits off you - if so, feel free to either skip it entirely or send me the bill for the mammary reattachment procedure. (It will help to have Asian fonts installed, as explained here, but is not essential. My next post in the series will require them, though...)

Chinese writing in its various historical manifestations has been known and used in Korea for more than 2 millennia, dating back to the time of the Chinese occupation of northern Korea from 108 BC to 313 AD. By the 5th century CE, the Koreans were starting to write in Classical Chinese - the earliest known example of this dates from 414 CE, and by the 7th century, educated Koreans were speaking Korean and writing in Chinese. Later, three different systems for writing Korean with Chinese characters were created and adopted to various degrees : Hyangchal, Gugyeol and Idu.

The Hyangchal (향찰) system used Chinese characters to represent the sounds of Korean, and was used mainly to write poetry. (A similar system in use in Japan at about the same time, known as man'yogana, eventually evolved into hiragana, one of the syllabaries used to write modern Japanese. Man'yogana was developed under the supervision of Koreans in the Japanese court.) The Idu(이두) system, created in the 8th century by scholars of the Shilla Dynasty, used a combination of Chinese characters and special symbols to indicate Korean verb endings and other grammatical markers, and was used in official and private documents for centuries thereafter. Gugyeol (구결) was introduced in the 13th century, and was basically a simplification of some Chinese characters in an attempt to remove some ambiguity arising from the use of some Chinese characters for their sounds and others for their meanings.

China has always been the great civilization next door in Asia, a very big brother sometimes benevolent and more often not, the source of cultural borrowings for all of its smaller neighbours, including the Koreans, and for much of Korean history the language used for learned, official purposes in Korea was Chinese, in somewhat the same way as medieval Europeans used Latin.

By the 15th century, though, it was time for Korea to find a way of writing their own language that was more appropriate to its own sounds and grammar. It could be argued that Koreans had limited need to write their language down up to this time and for a some time afterwards, and when they did, it was sufficient to use Chinese writing to spell it out, but Chinese and Korean were and are very different languages. Korean is a subject-object-verb language, for example, and has a rich system of postpositional case markers. Chinese, a subject-verb-object language, does not. Korean has a complicated system of honorifics, part of which is expressed as verb endings. Chinese does not, and doesn't have any characters to represent these verb-ending morphemes.

The Korean writing system 한굴 (hangul) was finally created in 1440s, through the patronage of King Sejong, the fourth king of the Choson Dynasty, who ruled from 1418-1450. The new script was easy to learn - a matter of hours in many cases. (Hell, I even developed basic reading skills years ago after a couple of beer-fueled sessions at my favorite bar!) It was elegant, scientific, rooted in philosophy and study of the phonemes of spoken Korean, and is truly a thing of beauty. At the time, it was called í›ˆë¯¼ì •ê¸ˆ(hunmin jeongeum, or 'proper sounds to instruct the people'). According to King Sejong's preface to the book in which it first appeared in 1446, the invention of the script was nationalistic in intent, devised to enable the Korean people to write their own language without the use of Chinese characters. He states, in immodest Kingly (but surprisingly egalitarian) fashion :

possibly starting as a side-effect the long and treasured tradition of Korean men taking credit for the hard work of their underlings.

Even after the invention of the Korean alphabet, though, most Koreans who could write continued to write either in Classical Chinese or in Korean using the Gukyeol or Idu systems - the new script was seen to be the province of people of low status : women, children, and peasants, those who did not receive the necessary years of education required to learn to write Chinese.

Reading and writing weren't the only political issues with regard to the language at the time, of course - spoken Korean at the time was basically a vernacular, used mostly for more homely means. Chinese was still mainly the language of power, of art, of loftier pursuits. With the similar (and certainly more despised) position of Japanese as the language of power during the brutal occupation of Korea during the first half of the 20th century coming hard on the heels of the collapse of the Choseon Dynasty, the idea that Korean (both written and spoken) should be the common language of all levels of society is still a relatively new one. Ideas like universal literacy and egalitarianism weren't exactly popular ones in the society of that time (nor were they for the 5 and a half centuries after King Sejong, for that matter).

When Korean was written in the newly devised hangul script, it did still make sense for Chinese loan words, of which there were and are a multitude, to be written in their original Chinese. During the 19th and 20th centuries a mixed writing system combining Chinese characters and Hangul became increasingly popular, and literacy rates rose precipitously (as much as a consequence of changes in society as anything else, of course), until today, when the literacy rate in Korea is amongst the world's highest. Although it has been fading since 1945 (and was outlawed in North Korea in 1949) the use of Chinese characters still persists today - the front page of many South Korean newpapers today are littered with Chinese characters, although to a lesser degree than they were even 10 years ago.

Stay tuned for Part Two, coming as soon as I bloody well feel like it, which in addition to details about the writing system itself, will include naked pictures and senseless violence! Or not. I haven't decided yet. Please feel free to point out any factual inaccuracies - I am well aware that there are many folks around with more knowledge of this subject than I could possibly lay claim to.

11:32 PM | 12 comments and 2 trackbacks.

I brought this up in a Metafilter thread recently, and was, if not shouted down, at least soundly spanked. While there have been 321 deaths thus far as a result of SARS, the World Health Organization has recently mentioned that there are over 3000 children dying every day from malaria at the moment, in Africa alone.

That's a lot of dead babies, friends.

I will hasten to note that I do think SARS is a worry, and is not solely a media-homunculus, shoved into the spotlight to terrify and entertain us until the next Big Scary Thing comes along. It is a Big Scary Thing in its own right, and will hopefully be contained before it becomes Captain Trips.

Nonetheless, I thought a few illustrations might help to put things into perspective. If we set SARS Patient Zero have occurred on February 12 of this year, these are the way the numbers look as of April 28 2003, according to the WHO. Each tiny black dot is a human life.

Let's have a look at some more happy fun numbers!

Continue reading "Deathwatch" »

12:29 AM | 13 comments and 5 trackbacks.

[Warning : this is long.]

An email exchange with Kevin Marks a few weeks ago got me thinking more about one of the theories of linguistics that I've always taken for granted as a given. Only now as I am about to begin graduate level work in the subject am I realizing the degree to which various researchers in the field disagree about it. Of course, as is undoubtedly the case in most academic fields, there is disagreement about pretty much everything.

The following is probably of little interest to those not interested in linguistics (although may be of some small interest to those curious about the Korean language), and may best be skipped entirely. I am, however, keen to hear what people think, if they are interested in this field at all, so rather than keep my response restricted to email, I've decided to post it here. I suspect that it doesn't even answer the question that Kevin put to me, which was 'I'd like to hear a cogent argument for (the validity of linguistic relativism),' if I understood it correctly. More of a wee survey for my own interest. Ah, well.

The Sapir-Whorf Hypothesis, which is variously referred to as the 'Whorfian Hypothesis,' 'linguistic relativism,' and 'linguistic determinism' (a description of the strong formulation meant by implication to be a bad thing, I think) concerns the relationship between language and thought, and suggests in its strongest form that the structure of a language determines the way in which speakers of that language perceive and understand the external world. This formulation is generally understood by many to be untenable, but the hypothesis also exists in a weaker form : that language structure and content does not determine a view of the world, but that it shapes thought to some degree, and is therefore a powerful impetus in influencing speakers of a given language to adopt a certain world-view.

A possible opposite claim, from a sociolinguistic viewpoint, is that the thought (and thus culture) of a linguistic group is mirrored in the structure and content of their language, that because they behave and understand things in a certain way, their language reflects those behaviours and understandings - the idea that language is molded, if not determined, by culture.

Two quotes from the linguists whose names are most closely associated with this idea, the first from Edward Sapir (Language, 1929b, p. 207) :

Benjamin Lee Whorf, who was a student of Sapir, went further than the 'predisposition' suggested by his teacher, and proposed that the relationship was a more deterministic one :

Whorf does not go so far as to say that language structure totally determines the world-view of a speaker here. He does add, though :

This last is where the argument runs off the rails for me, at least the argument in which I have any interest. It is also the portion of the idea upon which most critics focus, and which was fueled by the Great Eskimo Snow Silliness set off in great part by this :

and which has been discussed at length in many places, including, cogently here, for example.

To most people, particularly those with little knowledge of Hardcore Linguistics, including myself, the weaker form of Sapir-Whorf seems self-evident. Of course the words we use, the words we know, have some influence on the way we think! The very fabric of our cognition is language, it might well be claimed (but of course that would be a claim that would meet great opposition as well). There is, predictably, great argument about what constitutes 'mentalese,' the native language of our minds, as it were). Do words determine the shape of our thoughts? Well, it seems equally clear that that's nonsense, and though it may and can be argued, it must be said most people don't bother to try.

Steven Pinker, who was the entry point to the brief exchange between Kevin and I a few weeks ago, calls the idea 'linguistic determinism,' and argues as most do that the strong version is nonsense. A student of Noam Chomsky, he works from Chomsky's idea of 'Cartesian linguistics,' that the brain has a 'hard-wired' built-in language acquisition device with an understanding of 'universal grammar', and suggests that language acquisition is an instinct. If we accept that language is an instinct, as Pinker and his mentor Unca Noam argue, it seems as if we must reject the proposition that language shapes thought. Some consequences of this :

In this, Pinker seems to be arguing not only against the idea that culture shapes language, but also the against idea that language shapes culture (by shaping thought). The use of the pejorative 'insidious' is a little unnecessary, but I'm not one who should poke people with sticks for using flowery language.

In his discussion of the idea, Pinker suggests three possibilities for interpretation:

(a) identicality: that language determines thought precisely, word-for-word;
(b) concept determinism: language determines (to an unspecified degree) what we
can think (doubleplus ungood!);
(c) linguistic relativity: that the form of our language (merely) influences what we tend to believe.

In Chapter 12 of The Language Instinct (quoted to me by Kevin), it seems that Pinker does concede the weak form :

Some commentators apparently do not take this as evidence that Pinker is admitting the weak formulation (c, above) of Sapir-Whorf. As I do not have access to a copy of The Language Instinct (no English language libraries and no damn money!), I'll have to take their word for it.

The amount of time and energy that's been expended on arguing about how vocabulary effects cognition surprises me, frankly. I think there's a much more interesting discussion about grammar and deeper structures here that often seems ignored, at least in what reading I've managed to do.

The effect of such things on language users seems to me to be more pervasive and more subtle than simple differences in richness or breadth of vocabulary, on which most work and thought has seemed to focus.

One reason I believe this to be so is as a result of some of the fundamental differences in language structure between Korean and English (and to a great extent, the other European languages with which I have some familiarity). Please note that I neither claim to be a expert in Korean language (more of a lazy amateur), nor have I conducted any experiments or formal observations. First, some background. There are three ideas with some circulation about the earliest genetic relationship of Korean with other language families : 1) the traditional view that Korean is an Altaic language, sharing its origins with Manchu, Mongolian, and Turkish, amongst others; 2) the proposition that Korean has its origin in two language families, Altaic and Polynesian; and 3) the view that because of insufficient evidence to support a definitive relationship with other languages, Korean is a language isolate.

Regardless of its origins, Korean does share a number of features common to Altaic languages : words are built by agglutinating affixes, vowels within words follow certain rules of harmony, and articles, relative pronouns, explicit gender markers, and auxiliaries are not found.

Although Korean is not related to Chinese, as a result of history and geography more than 50 percent of the words in the Korean dictionary are of Chinese origin. Most legal, political, scientific, religious and academic vocabularies, as well as Korean surnames, and increasingly at present given names, are based on Chinese borrowings and can be written with Chinese characters, although meanings and pronuciations have often shifted as they have been adopted.
Although some basic words for body parts, clothing and agriculture are shared between Korean and Japanese, and other similarities exist, including grammatical structures similar enough that word-for-word translations between the languages is relatively easy, it is still uncertain whether the similarities are genetic or come as a result of historical borrowing between the two. Many features of Korean separate it from English and other Indo-European languages. Some of the most important of these (for my discussion here, at least) are the use of honorifics, relationship words, and different levels of speech (others include articles, plural markers, pronouns, adjectives, verb forms, demonstratives and so on).

Honorifics are markings for nouns and verbs that express the speaker's attitude toward the addressee and the person who is being spoken of. Relationship words are blanket nouns denoting relationships between people that are commonly used in informal conversation between people, rather than given names - older brother, younger sister, uncle, auntie, grandmother and so on. (In the slummy, thin-walled building I used to live in in Busan, it was de rigeur on Saturday nights to hear sounds of passion and female cries of 'Opa! Oh, opa! (older brother)' from the playboy-next-door's apartment.) These extend to the common practice of referring to a woman as 'so-and-so's mother,' rather than using her given name.

There are four main levels of speech - polite-formal, polite-informal, plain, and intimate style - from which a speaker chooses, generally unconsciously, in everyday speech. The rules which determine the appropriate choice in conversation derive from the arcane art of knowing the ins and outs of the complex sociocultural fabric of Korean. It is equally inappropriate (in general) to address an older non-relative informally as it is to address a child with the polite-formal style, and mistakes like this may constitute a social breach (although it is generally understood that non-native speakers might make such mistakes). Depending on the relative status of the speaker, the person spoken to, and the person or thing that may be spoken about, the speaker can choose different words and forms to express intended meaning. For many basic verbs like eat, sleep, or give, at least two Korean words are available, each reflecting a different status of the subject or object of the verb. Each verb in Korean is further altered by a choice of grammatical affixes, adding not only grammatical information (such as tense), but carrying different levels of respect, deference, or politeness. Many nouns that refer to kinship or the household alsohave plain and honorific versions, the latter of which are used speak of another's house or relatives, and the former of one's own.

How does all of this relate to my earlier discussion of Sapir-Whorf, and considerations of how much and in what manner language may shape thought, and whether culture (loosely) determines language stucture, or vice versa? Don't worry, I'm getting to that.

Korea is widely acknowledged to be the most Confucian nation in the world technically neo-Confucian, but there's no need to split that particular hair here). Confucius focused on the need to maintain social order though willing or unwilling submission to the five primary relationships :

1) Ruler and subject
2) Parent and child (teacher and student)
3) Husband and wife
4) Older and younger person
5) Friend and friend

All of these relationships are explicity hierarchical, excepting, significantly perhaps, the last, although friendship of a Confucian bent is a considerably more meaningful proposition, it may be argued, than 'buddies' in North America might be.

Appropriate behaviour is expected for participants in each of these relationships, and the language used must be similarly hierarchical :

Although as in many nations, the strength of these traditional beliefs is fading, Confucian tenets still underly a great deal of the conscious and unconscious expectations of social behaviour, and deeply influence the relationships between the sexes and the generations.

The question that interests me, then, is this : do structures and forms like these in the Korea language shape the way in which Koreans think, particularly in terms of their relationships not so much to the world but to the people in it, to such a degree that we can say that language has given them a world-view substantially different than, for example, my own, as an English native speaker? It certainly seems so, to me.

Language is a tool for communication, a social construct, and it seems somewhat pointless to argue about what nouns one uses, and whether the presence or absence of a given bit of vocabulary in one language or another either permits and limits one's ability to think about it. This may be so, but I don't think it's very interesting, except in the abstract.
More interesting to me is the idea that the structures of a language - in this case Korean - may expand or limit the way in which one thinks about something much more important than snow (for example) : how one fits into society, and how one interacts with other humans. That Koreans really do think differently about these things, and that this may spring (entirely, partially, as much or less so?) from their language.

Is this a valid argument for a weak form of lingustic relativism? Is it even something that comes under the Sapir-Whorf rubric? I'm not sure. An opposite, equally important question is this : is it the case that the language has come to have the form it does as result of culture and belief, rather than the opposite? Confucius was Chinese, after all, and from an entirely different language group!

Again, I'm not sure. The correct answer is usually 'a little from column A, a little from column B', I know. Like I said, though, I'm an amateur who hasn't taken a single course in this stuff (yet!). So I'm curious about what you might think, dear reader, whether you're a full-fledged linguist (like languagehat) or just, like me, an enthusiastic dabbler.

9:22 PM | 23 comments and 16 trackbacks.

So I heard some people are averting their eyes, avowing that they'll Blog No More about all the War and Death and Ugliness and Ickiness; telling us that they feel they must disengage from the angry and divisive back-and-forth bayonette to the guts wartalk flying back and forth across the blogosphere lately. It's just so taxing. Too much, too wild, too real, too damn disruptive to quiet contemplation and coffee consumption. The voices who shout out against war are all but indistinguishable in their stridency from the voices who cheer the Forces of Freedom, darn it! I thought all that fact-checking of their asses would be fun! It's all so easily parsed, too obvious - I know the forces of Good are the Forces of Evil, sometimes, silly, and the Evil Doers are still there, darn it, and the Doers of Good are semi-plus unbad, well, at least sometimes, and I weary of explaining it all to my loyal readers, and besides all this typing is making me tired already, especially when some random Googlenaut winds up at My Personal Website with a search for "America Number One" +pussy -cheeselogs and leaves a comment that makes me feel like my carefully chosen words are all pearls-before-swining themselves, and I just can't do it any more, I need to find my happy place....

Not to put too fine a point on it, but I'm thinking you can go f--k yourselves, you lame sh-tmorsels. Grab some anger [mp3 - 2Mb] and ride it into the dirt, or step the f--k back.

(If this is unfair to those who have made a firm stand against making a firm stand, well, tough sh-t is all I can say to you this evening, my friends.)

6:28 AM | 11 comments

[Note in Big Friendly Letters for the Intelligence Impaired : The piece below was recently reproduced in toto (which is intensely annoying in and of itself) at Indymedia by someone, and characterized as actually being in support of this corporatist misadventure of a war. It's not, damn it, and that might have been clear if my unknown copy-and-paster had actually bothered to read beyond the first paragraph, or scrolled down a post or two. Disappointing.]

--

You know, I'm starting to get behind this whole War thing. I feel it in my belly now, I feel the twist down deep in there, down where the root of my cock would be, if it had a root. I feel the warm throb with each heartbeat thrum and flash of ordnance.

It gets me hot.

I'm getting excited about the killing. I wasn't too thrilled with it at first, you know, cowardly america-hating lefty cheese-eating appeaser blowhard anti-warblogger f--kwit that I am. I was tremulous and girly, but now that the blood is flowing, and the guns are shouting their wordless chants, I'm starting to like it. I want to see more! I want the news to turn bad and then worse. I don't want your brave boys or mine to come home, wrapped in glory and squinting through a cake of Euphrates dust - I want them to stay and fight and die, for me, yes for me, and for glorious freedom. I want them to stand there arch-backed and unbowed in the sand with the grieving sun behind them - erect - and clutching a flagpole, with old glory streaming out behind. And then I want to see them blown to pieces.

I want a conflagration! Firestorms! God damn it, if it's war then let it be war! Let's rub our noses in it, roll in it like a dog in its puke, let's stare at ourselves red-eyed in the mirror and think about what we really are, and what we love, and who we fear. Let's take it to the next level! Let's roll! No pain no gain! Just do it! Semper fidelis! Give me the shrieks of the wounded, the gentle Protestant sobbing of heartbroken heartland mothers, and the keening of those strange burkha'd women gathered around the corpses of their sons, too.

I like this war. I want more of it. I want Iraqi Freedom now, and I want it without pickles or mustard, you minimum-wage retard. I want Iranian Freedom too, with some Freedom Fries on the side, and then I want some goddamned Korean Freedom, served up sizzlin' hot, with kimchi-fart afterburners switched on as the walls fall down around me. Free the world, George! Free us all! We want to be free! My huddled masses, they yearn for some down-home, Texas-style freedom! Freedom from care, freedom from want, freedom to shop, freedom from thought, freedom from life. Free us from our lives, America, free us all. Fight for peace, because peace is almost as good as freedom!

Void where prohibited by law.

4:34 AM | 10 comments

I am often inclined to think, all Sturgeonesque, that 90% of everything is crap, and that goes double for poetry. Which would mean, of course, that 180% of poetry is crap, which may be overstating the case somewhat, but that feels like a comfortable number to work with, so I'll let it stand.

A case in point is this Harold Pinter poem rescued from a slightly-less-than-customarily-dumbass (at least recently) Metafilter thread. Harold Pinter is apparently some Poet of Significance, about whom I know very little, as I ain't got me mucha that there book-larnin'. Anyway, have a read :

Now, I don't disagree with the sentiment expressed here, as you might guess. Yes, America and their God are doodyheads supreme, and a force for death and evil in the world today. That's a given, isn't it? And, hey, I like the loping metre - badum badumdum boop. It's bouncy, yet martial! Just right, as Goldilocks might exclaim.

What amuses me is that this Great Author's Poem falls in quality somewhere between lame old Satan-cheering Iron Maiden lyrics, say, and a quote from Cannibal Corpse [warning : rather icky, but may assist in understanding American culture] . You know, I wouldn't take issue if Pinter's tripe weren't meant to be Art, High and Holy. No one listens to Cannibal Corpse (or at least, I wish no one did) expecting a literary artgasm, I don't think. But oor Harold?

Well, stuff like "The riders have whips which cut. Your head rolls onto the sand Your head is a pool in the dirt Your head is a stain in the dust" goes quite nicely alongside other stuff like

Quick now, was that Harold, or the merry pranksters from Vomitory? And does it matter? Admittedly Mr Rundqvist, Vomitory's wordsmith, has a few problems with getting those nice bumpedyboop rhythms going, and may in fact have a few problems with english as a second language, but I'm willing to bet there are a whole lot more people chanting his songs than dear old Harold's.

Which may not be the point. You tell me. 250 words or less, due by Friday. Heh.

I wonder, as an aside, how many of the foolish young soldiers going to risk their lives for f--king nothing in Iraq listen, teeth gritted, to mutant scum like Cannibal Corpse and their grindcore ilk? That might be an interesting statistic.

4:51 PM | 8 comments

Shelley speaks, in pellucid and evocative language, of the tensions between the individual and community, conflicts between the strength of uncompromising individuality and the sense of responsibility to others, which are often expressed in ways contrarian and discordant. If you read her words often, you know that she cherishes this part of herself, and is proud to be the one who pushes back, who questions, about matters political and gender-related, about issues social and relating to the blogosphere, and this is one of the things many other people cherish about her too. I'm glad - more than glad, I'm indebted in a multitude of ways and even if I disagree with her on the details deeply grateful - that she is around to kick against the pricks, as exhausting and demoralizing an avocation as that is.

One of the many reasons I feel indebted to her (and to others around the ever-more-loosely-joined virtual neighbourhood of which I feel a part) is that she kickstarts thoughts in me, and if I'm at the precise juncture where the caffeine has overcome my natural lethargy (like right now), I'm liable to write about them. The exercise of deciding whether this is a Good Thing or not is left to the reader.

The following is long and personal, and no doubt philosophically suspect. So sue me!

Particularly in these difficult days, people accuse me of being anti-American, and I invariably admit that I am, although perhaps not in the sense in which they mean it. The phrase anti-American almost certainly means different things to different people, and in different languages (long ramble about the Sapir-Whorf hypothesis excised - I'll leave that for another day). Occasionally I'm even asked why, although this is rare, and like dg here, it's usually as part of a low-intensity injoke that bounces around Metafilter occasionally : 'Why do you hate America so much?'

I wish I were able to trace back to the beginning my first stirrings of anti-American sentiment, way up there in my Northern BC village. That sort of thing is a fool's game, though, particularly when your long-term memory is as wildly inaccurate as mine. We only got two television channels up there - CTV and CBC - and so there was no nose-upturned pseudo-intellectual pooh-poohing of American entertainment, though you can be sure I affected a whole range of other arrogant smartboy behaviours, feeling as I did a lone island of brilliance in a sea of millworkers and fetal alcohol syndrome genetic sports.

The second album I remember buying was The Clash's London Calling - perhaps that was the trigger.

With lyrics like

it fired me up in a way that I still feel, bowel-deep and still burning decades later. But really that album, political as it was, had very little in the way of attacks on America itself - it chose broader targets, and knocked them over with rakish, snarling aplomb.

Like Shelley, I read Ayn Rand as a teen too, and everything else I could get my hands on, which, thanks to a mother visibly relieved that I was more interested in books than cars, was almost everything I could think of, but it didn't leave much of a mark on me, I don't think. Similar expressions of libertarian ideals in Heinlein's juvenilia and other SF novels did leave their mark, though. I remember quoting him, sneeringly, over the years : 'specialization is for insects.' But I was too interested in individuals (which I mentioned in another context, in a post of which I'm particularly proud, here) to care much about -isms. This decision, this disdain of politics, has stayed with me to this day.

So how does a disdain of politics and a Clash song jibe with a repeatedly-reiterated anti-Americanism? I'm getting to that, honest.

One of the things that Shelley's piece today started me contemplating was how my feelings on individuality differ from the ones she expresses so well, and how imagining myself as a contrarian (if people-loving) curmudgeon all these years has molded my life. When I think about it, lyrics from another song bubble up into my mind, and I suppose they express the root of my feeling as well as anything else :

All my life, I've fashioned myself as the Outsider, the exile, the individual, rugged or otherwise. I feel little to no obligation to any sense of community, other than that which is mandated by my own sense of what is right. It has roots, no doubt, in childhood bereavements, and first saw the light when a psychologist diagnosed me as a kindergarten sociopath. It matured with the fingernails-ripped-out clawing at the well-walls of my hometown - let me out! - and has evolved slowly since. It's led to me to live as an expatriate all over the planet for most of the last 15 years, complaining about my new hosts, wherever they have been, and equally kept me from returning home. It's made me unwilling to consider myself part of any group larger than a self-selected circle of close friends, virtual and otherwise. It's led me inexorably to spending a significant portion of my waking hours in front of a computer, typing my life out for people I have never met.

But it's also made me a better man, in many ways, I think, if a somewhat solipsistic one. I do believe that all you have is your soul, and that, absurd as it seems, is true even if there is no such thing as a soul. That's an argument I'm not interested in, as it simply doesn't matter. But I believe that once you have done your best to detach, in best buddhist fashion (though I hasten to add that I am no more a buddhist than I am an evangelical christian) - detach from political or religious affiliation, from outmoded and useless labels like 'left' and 'right', from exhortations to patriotism and considerations of race, from fretting about whether this group or that is disadvantaged or exploited - and tried to live according to the dictates of your conscience and love and do what good you can for those you know....well, we all want that, in one way or another, don't we?

At the end of the day, ignoring the clamoring of the crowds to join in and be a part of something is the strategy of the hermit, and I am no hermit. I partake, joyfully or furiously, depending on the provenance of the brain chemicals circulating intraskull, with as much enthusiasm as someone might who defined themselves by their job, or their religion, or their gender, or their sexual preference, or their nationality, or their political affiliation, or their race.

So why do I hate America so much, though I've said over and over again that I love many American people? Because America does evil, and I cannot help but hate that which does evil, all the while knowing that it is evil. There's no need for me to recite the litany of Terrible Wrongs that America has done - no matter how you sit on the love/hate/fear/security map, you know those things of which I speak.

This is not to say that other nations, other governments, other groups political or otherwise, today and in the past (and no doubt far into the future) have not done great evil. Cambodia, Germany, Japan, Rwanda, Russia, El Salvador, Guatemala.... any of us could go on, endlessly, and point to massive evils that, in sheer scale if nothing else, dwarf the worst that anyone could accuse America of.

For me, though, disappointment is the key to my dislike of America. Deep, weary, beaten-down disappointment. Disappointment at the massive disconnect between the way that America portrays itself, and the way that many Americans who are ignorant of both history and geography perceive America. Regardless of how shocked people may have been at the million corpses littering the ground in Rwanda a decade ago, I believe that were the blood of those multitudes on American hands through action rather than inaction, the shock and outrage would be many times more powerful. When I was young I expected - and many people, American and otherwise feel the same - that America would always be a force for good in the world. Americans are supposed to be heros, damn it! That's what their movies tell us, and their television, and their news agencies and their government. That's what their duplicitous sold-out scumbag of a president keeps repeating in halting tones when they trot him out to read another script about 'smoking out the evil-doers.' And nothing, we all know, is as disappointing as a fallen hero.

(Of course, you can probably guess that I directly blame George W Bush and his administration for the death of one of my best friends, as much as I blame the sack of sh-t who set and detonated that bomb in Bali. They loaded and cocked the gun - that little Indonesian just pulled the trigger. Their bumbling PR-driven war in Afghanistan drove al Qaeda members to Indonesia, the nation with the largest Muslim population on the planet, where those escappes were no doubt instrumental in the murder of all those people in Kuta. My resentment of the abject stupidity of the conduct of the little Bush-te revenge-war has only honed my anger and resentment and disappointment to a fine edge.)

But to people not dependent on their politics or their nationality to define themselves, to someone for whom identity is not built on ideas and groups outside of him or herself, the words of Official America are at so far a remove from the realities that anger and disappointment are the only responses that seem rational. Anger that wrong is being portrayed as right, to the apparent unquestioning satisfaction of many who would fight evil if they recognized it. Disappointment because America, the great power of our world, could do so much good, and instead has been locked into a path that will bear bitter fruit for everyone for as far as the mind can see into the cratered, smoke-shrouded wasteland of the future.

I love Americans, many of them. I hate America because through those who lead that powerful nation, it seems to be hellbent on making a world that is worse in every way that's important for most of the people in it. And I feel this way not because I am Canadian, or 'lefty', or religious, or anything else other than who I am. I hate America because I want so desperately to love it.

7:22 PM | 33 comments and 2 trackbacks.

Like everyone else, I noticed Dr Weinberger's and Doc Searls' World of Ends this morning, linked from Bb. I have taken the liberty of making a response, of sorts, in the form of a satire fetchingly entitled - in true profane wonderchicken style - 'World of Assholes'.

Although I do disagree with many of their points, I recognize the good will in their intention, and intend this in turn as good-natured if pointed ribbing, not ideological warfare. Manifestos by their very nature invite a kick in the ass, though, and I'm willing as always to step up to the plate. (And mostly I was just annoyed that I didn't get one of those emails Shelley mentioned. Heh.)

6:26 PM | 18 comments and 3 trackbacks.

About a year ago, I squeezed out the following brainfart

And today, as weblogorrhea reaches epidemic proportions, Dr Pepper's soulless, clue-deficient marketing shills are actually giving it a go, boys and girls.

*Takes off tinfoil helmet*

Doc Searls is quoted as saying in response to this : "In my view blogs are the antidote to viral marketing."

In my view, this clumsy teentastic attempt at manipulation - more likely to attract attention to itself (which, let's face it, has got to be the real goal here, rather any genuine attempt at marketing juice thanks to the efforts of some cadre of hiphop dipsh-t teend00d bloggers pimping their avatars for some gear - it's a metacampaign, kids!) and spawn subtle and inventive imitations as a result of the MSNBC article and other media attention - is the first salvo in a coming war of web words. Blogs aren't the antidote to viral marketing, they're the petri dish where the virulent brain-colonizing memetic equivalent of Ebola will be grown. Call it wEbola, and reach for the mental prophylactic of your choice. At stake are our very souls!

That's complete bullsh-t, of course. I'm just flinging hyperbole around to make this all seem a little more interesting, you know, 'cause I can. The truth is, even if I do disagree with Doc's quotable quote there, if I should happen across a weblog pimping some craptacular, pointless and inevitably unnecessary new product ("Buy this crap! Buy it you f--kers, or we'll lose our jobs and have to whore out our children!" - now that's a marketing campaign I could respect), well, *click*

Heck, I even refuse to read weblogs that perfunctorily link to Amazon, for christ's sakes, never mind ones that are busy flogging some sh-tty sugar drink. But this sort of thing is going to get more sophisticated, mark my words, brothers and sisters, and more insidious. The marketrons will continue to colonize the new frontier. I have seen the enemy and he is us.

4:38 AM | 7 comments and 1 trackback

Thanks to the eternally irate Mr Golby for this little nugget.

Yes! Bless us, lord! Let's pray for our troops, pray for our politicians, pray that the bleeding hemorrhoids that have been plaguing us will disappear, let's pray that those pesky raghead pagan f--ks die in their thousands, let's pray that more war will stop war, let's pray that killing will put a cap on killing, let's pray that the sweet light crude manna will continue to pump through the fiscal veins of our great nation, let's pray that our god has a bigger dick than theirs, let's pray that the dazed halfwit apathetic scum that allowed us to take over the most powerful country in the world won't wake up and cut our throats like the vermin we are, let's pray goddamnit, let's pray the great game will continue, let's pray that jesus doesn't f--king come back and rip us from crotch to sternum like trout, let's pray, let's pray, let's get down on our knees and pray to something bigger, let's pray, let's pray our children don't have to do the same evil things we did, it's not our fault, god, please, it's not our fault, we're not bad people, we just did what we had to do, what we were told to do....

[Audio : Dead Kennedys - Kinky Sex Makes The World Go 'Round]

3:52 AM | 6 comments

This is going to be one of those posts that starts : "So, I...."
I usually hate those kinds of posts.

So, I get an EGR send in my inbox today. Rageboy - or Locke, or whichever mask he was wearing when he hit 'send' or 'go' or 'cry havoc' or whatever the button said (assuming that both personas are masks, to one degree or another, and assuming that it was an actual button he pressed) - included a couple of quotes in the header, and I got as far as

before I got distracted, as seems to happen so often to me. All that youthful experimentation has left me with an attention span that is somewhat unreliable, I'm sad to report. Don't worry your pretty heads, though, dear readers : I make do.

So, this Jung quote (I did read a lot of Jung when I was young - har!) is one that I've never run across before, oddly, unless of course I did run across it, but forgot about it because I was in the middle of one of those youthful experimentation sessions I mentioned above. My memory has a few holes in it too, unfortunately. Again, though, I make do.

It resonated in the echo chamber behind my nose and I was keen to see what had been said, and when, and by who. It seemed to apply to something I've been turning over in my mind lately : one thing that a filthy foreigner in Korea who spends any time watching his hosts will learn quickly is how inspidly sentimental these folks can be. I loathe sentimentality, but I'm keen to understand more about it, 'cause, you know, I'm such a groovy guy. The other bit of data is the fact that Korean soldiers, in the Vietnam War and elsewhere, were universally feared for their 'casual brutality'.

So, off to Google. Shiver me timbers, boy wonder, who should be at the pole position for this interesting phrase, gunning his virtual engines, but the excellent Jonathon Delacour!

He was talking about warbloggers in his post, which interested me not at all at that moment - "We're on a mission from God, ma'am." - but he does quote the equally splendid Joseph Duemer :

Now this sounds like the kinda dirt I'm trying to dig up, here, tonight. This sounds like words I can get behind, and apply to something that at least has the odor of insightfulness.

But then, I notice this in the comments :

and I wonder if that's true. Does sentimentality have a positive connotation for most Americans? And how about for Koreans? And am I unusual in hating it so?

Back to Google I went, feeling the need to dig some more, and came up dry. Serried ranks of quotable quote pages, with no commentary to sink my nose into, truffle-hunting webpig that I am.

Then I tried a bit of wiggling with my search terms a bit, and found this :

This set me back for a minute or two, and led me to remembering my wife's stated reason for sticking with me, when asked why she had a couple of years ago, despite her parents threatening to disown her, in the face of her friends' avowals that she was nuts to shack up with a nasty foreigner, ignoring the stares we got when we walked arm in arm down a Korean street. She said that she remembered me saying one night not long after we first got together something along the lines of :

Love is love is love. Mother for child, friend for friend, lover for beloved. It's all one, even if it is different in the ways that it is shown and shared.

That simpleminded belief of mine dovetails micron-close with this 'jeong' idea, doesn't it? Not that I had the faintest idea at the time that such a belief existed and was so important to so many Koreans. It's not particularly insightful, certainly, but it's true, or true at least for me, and that's more than enough. It was enough for her, too, it seems.

So. At this point I kind of ran out of steam. I lost track of what I had been thinking about when I went off searching for some background on the Jung quote (which was probably going to end up in something mean-spirited anyway) but I ended up remembering something that has made me a better man.

And Rageboy? Well, I guess I gotta thank him, for starting me wandering down that track this evening, which ended for me in a happy memory and a cuddle with my woman. And feel 'jeong', a bit, for the guy, because the very public road that led him to his pressing that 'send' button today hasn't - at least as far as I know - as happy an end as my short road did tonight.

5:49 AM | 4 comments

I was a little let down, as the taxi pushed through the rain into downtown Vancouver, at how little had changed. This feeling intensified over the next few days : other than a few new buildings scattered here and there, and a new colour scheme on the buses, it seemed to me as if nothing much had changed in Vancouver in the five years since I last set foot in the homeland. In fact, not much that I could see had changed in the 20 years since I first moved there as a thirst-bedeviled freshman.

After living in Korea, where the entire country reinvents itself every five years or so, and the one constant is change and ferment and fresh concrete flowering skyward fast as bamboo, it was a little disconcerting. I had never thought of Canada as...well, stodgy, until now.

But over the next couple of weeks there, I noticed that at least one significant thing had changed, other than the amount of grey hair on friends and family.

I had read that the drug companies were getting more aggressive with their carpet-bomb marketing in North America over the past few years. Read about the scattershot Ritalin-dosing of children, read about the emergence of the Prozac nation, read about the drug companies inventing 'female sexual dysfunction' in order to manufacture a market for more of their pills. But I wasn't prepared for the fact that there wasn't a single commercial break that I can recall on network TV over those couple of weeks that didn't have at least one drug advertisement. When did heartburn become 'acid reflux disease'? How many cold medicines do people actually need? 'I love my Tylenol PM'? How putrid is that? f--k you lady, why don't you try loving your children instead (yelled I at the television screen, much to the long-suffering chagrin of my lady love). There were ads flogging drugs for conditions I haven't even heard of, ads with happy grinning families running across manicured green parkland with their lassie-like dogs, free of the ravages of anal warts or whatever the hell had been plaguing them before Smithcline-Beecham showed up on the scene.

Now, I'm not one to claim, ever, that drugs in and of themselves are a bad thing. Better living through chemistry, say I. But I've always been more inclined to think that the body should be allowed to deal with minor illnesses on its own, and that drugs are better employed in the context of recreation than medication. Indefensible position perhaps, but I don't really give a sh-t. Unless I've got Ex-lax™ to ease the way, of course!

I also have a strong tendency to think that the habit of medicating for every minor complaint is a sign of weakness, and creates and fosters weakness, and weakness is bad. Weakness in mind or body invites the triumph of evil men, evil deeds and thoughts. But that's a whole other rant, perhaps.

So, anyway, unprepared as I was for the constant deafening barrage of druggy blandishments on the TV, I was substantially less prepared for the fact that half the f--king people I know are apparently now on SSRI's : you know, selective serotonin reuptake inhibitors. Prozac™ and Zoloft™ and Paxil™ and I don't know what-all else. When did this happen? When did all these people decide that they couldn't handle their lives anymore without being constantly medicated? Or when did their drug company whore-doctors convince them of it?

Now, look, I know (based on extrapolation from what I've seen amongst friends and relatives recently) that probably half of the people reading this are on scrips for one of these drugs, too, and I don't want to antagonize or insult unduly. There are, certainly, some people for whom these 'miracle drugs' (given us by the gods) are a means by which they can live a normal life, overcome the ravages of aberrant brain chemistry, fight clinical depression.

But I've got to think that there are way too many folks out there who are just too goddamn lazy and irresponsible to take responsibility for their own mental states, just like there are too many people who think of themselves as victims, who blame their parents or their spouse for their problems, who refuse to take responsibility for their actions, who don't vote and then complain about the government they get (and so richly deserve), who drive an SUV because, hey, if I get into an accident, it's the other guy who'll get hurt, who dismiss concerns about environmental degradation with a wave of the hand and a demand for incontrovertible proof...

Sorry, I'm ranting again.

But hell, I've taken just about everything there is to take at one time or another, and I didn't do it to escape, I did it to explore. Hooray for me, right? Well, sure, why the hell not? I reckon that if your life is bad enough that you have to stay perpetually medicated, you need to change your life, change your doctor, get off the SSRIs, and get the hell out of the house. Find some people to drink a beer (yes, I see the irony) with and dance in the rain on a beach somewhere. Find someone new to have sex with, if that's your thing. Climb a mountain, sail a boat, or if you're too fat or lazy or poor to do that, find someone who loves doing it, and ask them about it, and watch their eyes as they describe the joy it gives them, and find something that makes you feel that joy too. Something other than chemicals.

You know, unless you really are f--ked up. In which case, pop those puppies like gummy bears, I say.

11:32 PM | 11 comments and 1 trackback

A number of friends and neighbours have expressed some concern about my proximity to the Bouffant Brigades across the DMZ, and asked me for my take on the latest developments here in Korealand™. I am happy to oblige.

First, some background, which tends to be glossed over by the shiny-toothed automata reading the news, and seems to be missed by most of the print media I've seen too, unsurprisingly.

In 1994, the Clinton administration established an "Agreed Framework" with the well-fed wackjobs in Pyongyang. One of the drivers of the agreement was the desire on the part of the Americans to prevent North Korea from operating a weapons-grade reactor. The Agreed Framework promised North Korea progress toward "full normalization of political and economic relations." It also promised shipments of heavy fuel oil, and two light-water reactors by 2003 to replace the weapons-grade facility Pyongyang was to shut down.

Several months ago (November 14 2002), the Bush administration decided to punitively cut off fuel oil supplies in response to Kim Jong Il's latest hijinks (admitting to a secret nuclear program), just as winter was approaching and famine looming again. This is significant because these fuel supplies were basically the only thing that America actually delivered on to fulfill their part of the 1994 agreement, and given the poverty of the country, the only way that any fuel could be had for electrical generation and so on. Ironic, actually, because it is fairly clear that, at least in part, the reason for the nuclear program in the first place was to generate electricity (and make filthy bombs to sell off and/or kill people with, of course). Construction on the promised lightwater reactors began in August of 2002, 8 years after the agreement, and 4 months before they were meant to begin operation.

Not only had America in fact ignored almost entirely their commitment to the requirements of the Agreed Framework, and eventually by the end of the Clinton administration delivered solely (and then partially) on their commitment to supply heavy fuel oil, but as soon as Bush and his cadre of demonic sh-tweasels took over, North Korea was declared part of the laughable "Axis of Evil." How's that for "full normalization of political and economic relations," huh? It may be worth noting that during the last few years of the last decade, during the time we're talking about, North Korea was experiencing a famine that killed, by some estimates, more than 10% of its population, or about 2 million people.

In fact, the Americans can't really even claim with anything like a straight face (although they try, naturally, and get away with it) that the secret uranium-enrichment program revealed by Pyongyang a couple of months ago puts it in "material breach" of the 1994 agreement, anyway : uranium enrichment is one of the things simply not covered in the Agreed Framework.

This is typical of the bullsh-t-spinning that these lying scum engage in (on both sides of the fence, of course. The North Korean mouthpieces do it so badly that it's more comedy than tragedy, though.) :

The truth, as usual, is approxiately 180 degrees away from what is quoted above, for reasons I've discussed here at the 'bottle many times before. What has been happening is what would seem to be a concerted effort by America, and particularly by the Arbusto Administration, to subvert and obstruct South Korea's efforts towards productive engagement with the North. Not much wonder that the 'sunshine policy' of Kim Dae Jung has seen limited success in areas other than domestic.

The Bush administration's policy of 'tailored containment', so remniscent of Reagan-era cold-war-speak (and not surprisingly given the array of Reaganite criminals and courtiers re-elevated to positions of power), displays a lack of any real understanding and responsiveness to the realities of the situation, and is counterproductive at best and a reckless endangerment of millions of lives at worst.

The wisdom of Kim Dae Jung's sunshine policy, a strategy which the new president-elect Noh Moo Hyun (usually romanized as 'Roh Moo Hyun' for some reason) has pledged to continue, is more sensible given the context I describe above, I think, and is one which is supported by Japan, China and other states in the region. North Korea has always been responsive to chances for improved relations with the outside world, and its current attitude can be seen as defensive, and as with other bluffs and brinkmanship in the past intended primarily to bring America to the bargaining table.

Not to say that Kim Jong Il, the Stalinist Bouffant Butterball, is anything other than pure evil. But he's not a madman. American media is always quick to demonize their so-called enemies : Saddam Hussein, of course, being only the latest in a long string of 'madmen' and 'new Hitlers'. Kim JI is canny, and continues to respond with the only tools at his disposal - threats - to the posturing, lies, bad-faith negotiation and arrogance of the Americans.

This from the Guardian today echoes my point : "The North Korean nuclear standoff moved a step closer to a peaceful resolution yesterday as Pyongyang set a date for negotiations, amid reports that it was prepared to scrap its weapons programme in return for a security guarantee from the United States."

There is a lot of talk recently, as well, about the idea of America pulling its 37,000 troops out of Korea. It's difficult to say where they'd be withdrawn to : maybe they could share bunks with the 40,000 in Japan. The strong anti-American sentiment in South Korea in recent times, which I recently discussed here, has finally percolated through to North America, and of course the yanks are shocked and bemused. How could they hate us so? We're the good guys, aren't we?

It's generally acknowledged that the 37,000 American troops here would make little to no difference were the North to invade again. The third largest standing army in the world - over 1,000,000-strong - is just across the DMZ. South Korea, with about 600,000 soldiers at any given time, a large segment of which is composed of university-age young men doing their two years of compulsory military service, would bear the brunt of any invasion. The reason that those troops are important is the psychological effect. The idea of those American soldiers being a tripwire of sorts is an outdated one : the US could just as effectively defend South Korea against attack from bases in Japan or even Hawaii. But to withdraw the troops, after 54 years, would raise questions about the role America wishes to play in Asia, how committed it is to maintaining stability, and make goverments in Beijing, Tokyo, Taipei and elsewhere very nervous indeed. It might even, given the apparent nuclear ambitions of Pyongyang, force Japan to 'go nuclear.' The role of the 37,000 American troops in Korea is mainly symbolic, and both the Koreans and the Americans calling recently for their withdrawal are swayed too much by emotion and too little by the ravages of intelligence to consider what the consequences of a withdrawal might be.

It's generally accepted that North Korea already has one or possible two nuclear weapons, and they clearly have the technology to deliver them. Seoul is about 55 km south of the DMZ, and I live about 30 km south of downtown Seoul. I recently asked my wife if she knew what to do if she were to see a sudden bright flash in the sky outside our kitchen window, which looks north : drop, stay away from the windows, move to the bathroom at the center of the apartment, and wait for the shockwave and its backlash to pass.

My guess is that we'd probably survive an airburst, if it were to happen. But I don't really think it's going to, unless the criminals in Washington decide to turn their gun barrels this way after they raze Iraq (or are denied the opportunity to do so).

Related wonderchicken rantings : here, here, here and elsewhere.

Reading things like "North Korea Withdraws From Nuclear Non-Proliferation Treaty" is not as scary, hopefully, when one is aware of the game being played. That said, one hopes that mom stops them before someone loses an eye.

Also : this. [via provenanceunkown]

8:57 PM | 18 comments and 6 trackbacks.

[If you would like to read about what happened when my friend Rick was caught in the bombing in Bali, and the grief and hope of the people who loved him, in the order in which it all happened, start from the bottom of this page and read upwards.]

This site will go dark for technical reasons for a few days on or around Monday November 4th, but should be back not long thereafter. Before that happened, I wanted to write and post something more about my friend. Here it is.

Nineteen years is a long time. Half a lifetime, for me. For half my life, I've counted Rick as a friend. Think of that - 19 years. I had a brother who died when he was about 5 years old. Rick was my brother for four times that long.

I met Rick in the fall of 1983, when I'd first arrived at UBC. I was wet behind the ears, a boozy hayseed smalltown boy whose expectations of university sprang primarily from repeated viewings of Animal House. He was a year older than me, and though it seems an odd thing to say about Rick, who was determinedly uncool, he was not only boozy and friendly, but downright cool, by my lights at least. He was so approachable, uncomplicatedly kind, and totally unconcerned about how he was perceived that he was cooler than hell. We became friends quickly, and he showed me the ropes, and bought my booze for me before I had ID.

The next 5 years or so, those UBC years, were an idyllic time, the academic component of which I have almost completely managed to block from my mind. We drank and we talked and we learned some, more about being friends than about economics or math. We chased women, with an almost complete lack of success. Rick and I, Barry, Oliver, David, Chris D, and later Derek and DV and Alana and Chris R and Jen, and many others - we adhered into a loosely-bound group of groups that drew together again recently, years after some of us had last seen one another.

Rick knew retro-cool before it was cool to be retro. He had a '64 Mustang for a while, which I worshipped. We'd take it down via the 'scenic route' to Spanish Banks and park beside the beach and drink. One time I begged him to go to the liquor store on 4rth Avenue, outside the Endowment Lands, to buy some rye. He protested that there was absolutely no brake fluid in the car - none - and the brakes were inoperable. I pleaded. He shrugged - a complicated, nuanced, truly Rickesque gesture - and we went anyway. When we got there, I had to hop out while we were still in motion and brace myself (as nonchalantly as possible) against the hood to bring the 'stang to a stop in the liquor store parking lot.

Rick and Chris Domitter went to Paris for a year, when Oliver and I were in our third year, and by now living in Gage Towers, from which we were later evicted. I remember sitting in my room with Oliver and Barry, drinking and smoking, exhausted, inebriated 4 a.m dorm room conversations, nights after the bars closed, music playing low in the background, red gel over the desk lamp whose beam was pointed out the window into the falling snow, drinking tea, putting out our cigarettes in the pot where my fig tree, Stoatgobbler, lived; feeling with a sense of pleasant lassitude every single world-weary minute of our 22 or 23 years, and listening to the cassette tapes that Rick and Chris had recorded and sent back to us, dreaming of Paris. Listening to their voices from half a world away, dreaming of getting out, going somewhere, seeing the world, living a life less ordinary.

I think it was that trip that turned Rick into the inveterate traveller he later became, and his letters and tapes to me that year inspired me to become a traveller too. His stories of sitting in a park in wintertime Paris, freezing, smoking to keep warm because his tiny rented room was equally cold and was ugly and depressing as well - these tales fit in with the books I was reading at the time and merged into a mythos that I knew both of us wanted to inhabit. I think it was around this time too that the swashbuckling part of Rick's personality began to bloom. He was always fearless, it seemed, in an unostentatious way. Quietly, determinedly fearless. Terrified of women, of course, but fearful of nothing else. Thinking about Rick so much in recent times, of how to characterize him, how to sum up such a complex man in a phrase, I hit on 'a combination of George Costanza and Doc Savage'. Rick of course, unlike George, didn't have a meanspirited bone in his body, but those of you who knew him might undersand what I mean. Anyway, I think this might have been the time when Doc Savage started to appear.

The books - this was one of so many ways that Rick and I were of one mind. We both wanted to write, and we both did, a bit, and neither of us could stop compulsively reading. When we both lived near King's Cross in Sydney, Australia, years later, we used to meet up at the library on MacLeay Street by chance, as often as we met anywhere else by design. (I remember when Rick got mugged in the Cross - by a 'bunch of Arab guys'. They took the watch his Dad had given him, the one with gold nuggets embedded in it. That was one ugly watch, but he was incredibly upset by it, so much so that he developed a weird skin condition for a while. I remember his little bedsit room on Tusculum Street on the edge of the Cross, with his slightly threadbare grey suit in the closet, and empty Yalumba wine boxes, and stacks of books.) Books were more important than eating, and if not more important than booze, at least on a par. Rick didn't actually talk about the books much - we weren't so much into Literature as we were into learning about every possible way there was to live a life.

Rick's letters to me over the years were the most memorable correspondance I've ever received in my life - uproariously funny, human, and luminous with his love of life. It will be my eternal regret that we'd stopped corresponding as regularly in the past couple of years as once we had, but I am thankful that a few months ago, we resumed our more regular correspondance via email.

One of the first trips Rick and I took together was to Long Beach, on Vancouver Island. It was cold, bitterly cold - September, I think it must have been - and the water was freezing. We rented surfboards for the weekend, scorned wetsuits, carried a fat-bellied bottle of Carlo Rossi red wine down to the beach in front of our campsite, and went surfing. We were in the water for nearly an hour, I think, and when we climbed back into the shell at the back of his pickup truck - Truckasaurus - he couldn't stop shaking. He was blue. Skinny bastard had gone and gotten himself hypothermia. Utterly oblivious to the consequences, though, young and indestructible as we were, we drank some more wine and went to sleep. He woke up in the morning feeling fine as always, and I woke up with a debilitating hangover, as always.

Rick loved the sea, and the mountains. The places of power - where the sky meets the land, and the land meets the sea. He loved the world, and the people in it (particularly the female people).

For the decade after we finished our stint at UBC, in '88 or so, we met up at least once every year or two, somewhere in the world. New Zealand, Australia, England, Scotland, back home in Canada. I travelled around the world clockwise, and Rick went counterclockwise, and our paths crossed as often as we could make them.

Scotland was the first, and maybe the most memorable for me. About 4 months in an ancient Scottish house beside the Firth of Forth in Edinburgh, a boarding house run by an ancient Scottish couple, almost completely surrounded by innumerable piles of ancient Scottish dogsh-t. Stiffy was there - Stephan Summerer who had lived in the same quad in residence for the year before I got evicted - and Barry, who came over the Atlantic after he had an accident and got some insurance money. Rick was working at a department store, Stefan had some sort of laboratory job, and I was drinking Bulgarian red wine, and when Barry arrived, we scattered again across Europe.

Other times, other places - literally thousands of nights and days making a beeline for nearest body of water whenever possible, time spent joking and consciously enjoying our lives, spent drinking or not, but rejoicing always, digging the marrow out of life.

Rick loved nature, and he loved film and art. He loved music, but in the stubborn, contrarian way he had, was always scrupulous in his disdain for....well, for things he disliked. His tastes were eclectic - he loved jazz, and music of the 60's and 70's, he loved 'power pop' ('if it's crunchy it's good'), and anything lyrical, well-crafted, and authentic. Not to say that the schmaltzy Vegas stylings of the Rat Pack, or the rich, tasty cheese of Burt Bacharach were beyond the pale of his tastes - but his love for the music was less ironic than it was sacramental, and that somehow made up for it. For years we'd go to punk rock shows, me self-conscious in my leather biker jacket, and him unruffled in his grey melton UBC Commerce jacket. He had no need and no desire to don protective colouration, to look the part, any part. People underestimated him because of this, as people do. I respected him for it - realizing that I didn't have the same strength of character to not give a good goddamn what people thought of me.

Authenticity. If Rick hated anything, and he was foremost a man who loved, not hated, but if he hated anything, it was lies, dissembling, falseness, pretension. He refused to be a part of anything that was false, that was anti-life, anti-love, but he was loathe to talk about it in terms like that, not wanting to trivialize it, to make it sound trite, as I've done by talking about it here. Instead, he'd talk about how important it was to say "yes" - yes to life, yes to life in its infinite extravagant abundance, yes to everything, yes whether it brought you pleasure or pain. When I came back one year from 9 months in Greece, and explained that I loved it there because I found it filled with people who smacked themselves lustily on the chest and declared "Christo like!", he knew exactly what I was talking about. It became shorthand for us for this idea. He accepted with equanimity whatever life might bring him. He lived a life that both in its broad sweep and its details embodied the things he believed.

Think about that - how many people have you met whose lives embody their beliefs, who live according to the ideals they've set for themselves? Far too few, would be my regretful answer, at least.

Beyond all the other reasons I had for loving Rick, beyond the simple fact of years of our lives shared, beyond his kindness, his irrepressible sense of humour, his enthusiasm for life and his determination to enjoy it and cause no hurt to anyone in the process of doing so, it was his sincerity and his goodness that I will miss.

He was a good man. He shaped my life in ways he will never know. The world is a darker place without him.

And now, as I'm absolutely certain he would want, I'm going to shut the hell up about it.

3:27 AM | 11 comments and 1 trackback

As I was walking home through the clouds of industrial smoke this evening, I was reminded for some reason of one particularly wild evening in Quintana Roo, Mexico, a few years back.

We'd been hired, Greg and I, to do the sound and lights for a party, a big one, that was being held in 'a barn' in Tulum, a couple of hours south of Cancun. Tulum the town, which is a nondescript collection of buildings on a crossroads on the highway, not Tulum the gorgeous Mayan ruins nearby, which are, you know, gorgeous. And ruined.

We took the 3 ton cube van down, loaded with gear, made it through the army checkpoints (we always sweated a bit with them, carrying pyrotechnics as we usually were) and found the place in the early afternoon. It was a concrete shell, barn-sized all right, and it didn't have a roof. Great. But we took it in our stride, in true make-the-best-of-it Mexican style, and had a beer while we figured out how we were going to set up. Manuel, the young Mexican guy who worked with us (and spent a great deal of his time shaking his head in bemusement at the antics of the crazy longhaired gringos) came back with some bad news : the building was connected to the grid, but that was it. No internal wiring at all.

Greg, who was the guy who actually knew how to do sh-t, after conferring with the promoters, told him to wire us up to the main circuit box. Manuel looked a bit doubtful, but after being reassured that everything was fine, he wandered off to start juryrigging sh-t together. It was the usual modus operandi - improvise, make do, and make it work.

We started setting up the triangle truss sections, the Par64 fixtures and their gels (sprinkled with sand from the last beach party a couple of days ago) and the amp racks and speaker enclosures, and 6 or 8 beers later, as if by magic, the sun was beginning to go down, and we had everything set up. There were a few more people hanging around, smoking dope, drinking, watching lazily as we tested the audio and lights. This was always my favorite part of a gig - finished the hard work for the moment, and relaxing before the party geared up. Leaving all the decisions and troubleshooting to Greg meant that I could enjoy as many beverages as I felt appropriate. The one exception had been when we'd done the indoor fireworks for New Year's Eve at Senor Frog's back in Cancun, but considering that we had blown off several thousand dollars worth of pyro inside a bar with sawdust on the floors, that had probably been wise.

Just as the last of the light was fading, it began to rain. The music had started, though, and people were arriving in droves, and they didn't seem to mind. It was a flash crowd, and soon our roofless concrete barn was packed with wet bodies, dancing under sheets of hard rain and the intermittent flashes of lightning. We put up some tarps over the audio equipment and the dj, and let it go. The rain didn't let up, but no one seemed to care. There was a weird earth-magicky kind of vibe happening, and the harder people danced, the harder it seemed to rain. Huge, warm drops grown fat in the wet air out over the Caribbean, hammering down like a waterfall.

The hippies and tourists just danced harder.

Manuel sidled over to us about half an hour after the rain really started coming down, looking terrified. Greg followed him outside, and came back a few minutes later, looking disturbed, which for him was a bit unusual. I arched my eyebrows in inquiry; he shrugged and handed me a beer.

Later that evening, things started to get bad crazy. Greg's girlfriend arrived, and Manuel found himself a peasant-skirted girlfriend from Bolivia, who lived here in Tulum, and she had a large quantity of acid. Driven by the strange, powerful feelings I was getting from the storm and the crowd, I danced like a maniac in the warm rain, and swallowed everything anyone handed to me. The promoter was thrilled at the crowds, and kept us in drinks. Even if we refused tokes, the air was thick enough with the smoke to bring on a deeper appreciation of the reggae.

I don't remember the party winding up, or loading the gear back into the truck. I do remember Greg, who despite being gloriously stoned was as usual the one experiencing the fewest visual anomalies, driving us at a snail's pace down the jungle road to the sea side cabanas where we were staying. The rain was still pounding down, there were no lights on the road, and the truck's lights weren't working. We couldn't see a damn thing out the windshield. I made Greg stop, got out of the truck, climbed up on the bumper and leaned back against the cab window, facing forward, arms spread out as if I'd been crucified, like a huge hairy moth that had been splattered on the windshield, and alternately pointed left or right as he drove. He drove totally blind, guided only by my frantic pointing as he edged toward one ditch or another, while Manuel and his new Bolivian girlfriend made out on the passenger side of the bench seat.

It worked pretty well, except when we hit speedbumps.

We made it to the place we were staying, eventually, wired tight, but couldn't handle it indoors in our thatched huts, and spent the rest of the night on the beach, watching the waves and the sparkle of phosphorescence as the raindrops struck the sea. All except Manuel and his girl, whose enthusiastic grunts and squeals we could hear in the distance, over the rain and surf.

The next day Greg told me that Manuel had "wired us straight into the mains. No breaker, no ground, no nothing." I didn't see how that had been such a bad thing, but then I made the connection to the fact that the dancers out on the concrete floor, myself included, had been frolicking in water that by midnight was about ankle deep, sliding on their bellies like seals, doing rain dances, inches from the wiring that was feeding power to the audio and lights. Greg had wanted to shut it down, but the promoter was adamant, and in the way of connected men in Mexico, was not a man that one could say no to, and stay in the area for long. We got lucky, as usual.

The Bolivian girl disappeared before Manuel woke up. Through some strange coincidence, his wallet had disappeared as well. The drive back to Cancun was a quiet one.

5:55 AM | 11 comments and 1 trackback

Drugs, and lots of them. Whacking great quantities of mind-expanding and mind-croggling chemical treats. Monster Scarface-style piles of snowy uncut columbian cocaine on the desk. A cut-crystal bowl full of pills, in all the colours of the rainbow. Monster doses of dimethyltryptamine and d-lysergic acid diethylamide to make my mind ripple and flap like a flag flying in the breath of god. Musty peyote buttons and foil-wrapped grams of psilocybin mushrooms. Opium to smoke and heroin to snort. Alcoholic beverages in all their gem-like hues. Sweet stinky tobacco and marijuana, dark brown hashish in both chunks and oil. Mescaline and methamphetamines. That's what I want.

I feel the urge to clear the carbon out of the valves, dust off the mental cobwebs. I feel the urge to self-trepanate, sprinkle lighter fluid on the exposed ridges and folds of my cerebral cortex, and light 'er up. I feel like slipping the surly bonds of earth and touching the cruel, elusive face of god, that old bastard.

But I won't, because I'm a responsible member of society. I'll just write a little weblog post about it instead, and hit the button clearly marked 'SAVE'.

1:55 AM | 15 comments

It's all about the hopeful hymn-humming tension between the Two Things, life is, so often. Suspension, floating as long as possible, in that sweet gravitationally anomalous spot between bum and wage slave, between drunkard and saint, between drop-out and rebel, between breather-of-mountain-air and dead-eyed technophile. 'Course, it may just seem that way after a couple of beers. f--ked if I know.

See, I've been a geek, biting the heads off digital chickens, from way back when. I'd spend endless hours at the age of 14 or so, back in 1980, tweaking the math and the BASIC code to make prettier shimmering patterns on the 147x47 pixel black and white monitor of my TRS-80 Model III. Only 16K RAM and 16K ROM on that sucker, with a tape drive for saving my handiwork, a tape deck that I played audio on - Life of Brian taped by leaning it up against the speaker on my little B&W TV and pressing the Play and Record buttons at the same time and being very very quiet - while trying to figure out by trial and error how subroutines were supposed to work. Hours, days, weeks alone upstairs in my lair, hunched over, in the dark.

I hated that machine and loved it in equal measure. It captivated me, hypnotised me. Red-eyed monomania, as the hours died overhead and dropped their dust in my hair. It almost ate my life, that f--king machine, before I discovered booze and women and dancing on the beach with a bottle in my hand and a song in my throat. Before the world opened its legs to me.

The monster is back, and it's trying to eat my soul this time. I don't quite know what to do about that.

3:08 AM | 8 comments

This is related to this Metafilter thread I started last week, which had some interesting commentary from US Army personnel past and present, and may be worth reading, if you are interested.

I reproduce the post here, for your linking-following pleasure, and also to satisfy my own mental-packrat tendencies as senile dementia creeps up on me. Please note that it is not as ranty as those who frequent the 'bottle may have come to expect - agenda-driven rant-posts at Metafilter are a good way to get a swift kick in the virtual mothras, and that just ain't no fun, friends and neighbours.

...

A blip on the radar, or a sign of shifting opinions? Can recent events in the Republic of Korea be taken as an indication that the special relationship between the US and South Korea is changing, and that public sentiment amongst Koreans is turning against America?

There's always been some friction between US Forces and the locals, what with the 37000 US troops that have been stationed here for decades, protecting against the threat of invasion from North Korea. In the wake of Bush's 'axis of evil' speech, which came at a time when the sunshine policy of Kim Dae Jung (the South's president, outgoing in December, who won the Nobel peace Prize in 2000 for his efforts) was seeing tangible sucesses, and at a time when new revelations about the 'My Lai of the Korean War', No Gun Ri, were coming to light, many Koreans began to think the Americans were less interested in peace than in finding a reason to keep those 37000 troops in place. When Kim visited Bush in 2001, apparently in hopes that the rhetoric could be toned down, he was reportedly given the cold shoulder.

There have been a long series of incidents - hit-and-runs, murders, rapes [Warning : Graphic and disturbing image of rape victim, halfway down page.] - involving US soldiers and Korean nationals over the years. Some would say it comes with the territory. But recently, sentiment turned sharply negative when two 12-year old girls were run down and literally flattened by a US minesweeper during training exercises, an accident in which the USFK admitted it was negligent. This week, there was an altercation between 3 US soldiers, three Korean students handing out leaflets while on their way to a rally (or memorial service - reports vary) to commemorate the dead girls, and one 65-year old lawmaker (who was imprisoned and subsequently released in the late 90's for visiting North Korea) with them. It's still unclear what really happened, but tensions are high, and some foreigners I know here are concerned about being caught up in similar events.

This week has also seen Japanese PM Koizumi visit Pyongyang, opening up the possibility of diplomatic relations between Japan and North Korea for the first time. North Korea has admitted (recently discussed on MeFi) that it kidnapped Japanese citizens, and has announced it will allow IAEA nuclear inspectors into the country. The fifth reunion between families separated by the Korean War half a century ago (which was never formally declared over) has taken place, and plans are afoot to build a permanent reunion facility. The DMZ has been opened to South Korean minesweeping troops, and rail and road links should be re-established by Christmas.

This latest is perhaps the most important : although no one is speaking in anything but hushed tones of reunification yet, the possibility of an uninterrupted rail link from Japan and Korea through China and Russia to Europe has massive dollar signs floating in the eyes of all concerned.

Koizumi has made a personally risky but successful move towards rapprochement in the region, and the Bush administration, for the moment, has been left on the sidelines. Although Japan is still disliked by many Koreans thanks to decades of brutal colonial rule and unresolved matters like the 'comfort women' - tens of thousands of Korean women kidnapped and forced into sex slavery during WWII by the Japanese army - it is the role of the Bush administration in their affairs that many Koreans are beginning to resent more actively. It would be unfortunate for the last of the goodwill to drain away [u:metafilter12, p:metafilter123] unremarked and the opportunity for peace in the region to be lost, but with Bush's current focus on oil-wars, it appears that this may indeed be the result.

12:09 AM | 4 comments

So I'm shambling home after my last class of the day, 9 pm and the hole-in-the-wall factories I thread my way through a couple of times a day on the way to and from the train station are still in full voice, clattering and clanging, eating the souls of the indentured slaves migrant workers inside. Past a couple of the reekier smokepots, the ones that perenially smell of burning plastic, I hold my breath, imagining polyps growing on my lungs, sprouting in quicktime like those sexually arousing stop-motion films of flowers budding they showed us in high school biology. Always gave me a little wood, those films. 'Course, most things did.

I remember when I was in my twenties, I'd breathe deep of stenches like that, savouring the chemical tang, showing off my misplaced confidence that I was going to live forever, ridiculing my meeker comrades for holding their breath. I was such an asshole.

So, anyway, I'm walking down this filthy alley, warily circling the horizontal metal rod that I'd walked smack bang into this morning (the black eye? no I really did walk into something!) while dreaming of a villa I've found on Koh Samui and how I'm gonna raise the deposit to buy the damn thing.

Sitting in an open doorway in front of a massive, rattling, deafening machine, a guy in a tattered muscle shirt was manipulating a gorgeous hi-res texturemapped image of some anonymous mechanical part on a 21-inch monitor, presumably the very part that the shuddering beast in front of him was busy fabricating, and smoking a cigarette. I walked over, pointed at the screen, gave the thumbs up. Grimy and unshaven, he grinned gaptoothed, and returned the gesture. There wasn't a hell of a lot more to say, so I continued on my way home.

5:13 AM

Back in about '86 or so, the world paused for a moment in its orbit as the musical colossus known as Naked & Shameless spontaneously appeared, boozily clambered to the very apex of the Vancouver musical scene, and then flamed out and disappeared, all in the space of days, if not hours.

Well, what really happened is that my buddy Deviant, who was responsible for the creation and dismantling of various Vancouver bands of moderate success over the decade, decided that it'd be pretty damn cool to get me liquored up in his studio, record one of my infamous spontaneous rants, then put it to music.

Unfortunately, no matter how much Ouzo I swilled, sitting on the stool in front of the mike, it just wasn't spontaneous. Performance anxiety. I did force it a bit once the booze kicked in, and pulled some ranty stuff out of my ass, but the resulting track didn't meet the high standards we had anticipated, and after a few plays on CiTR, the UBC campus radio station ("all spaceship and satan music, all the time"), sank into history unremarked.

For the purposes of branding, though (we were ahead of our time, baby), I'd come up with the name 'Naked & Shameless' for our two-man band. Myself being Jim Naked, up there under the hot lights, baring my soul, and Deviant being Dave Shameless, the evil rocknroller exploiting my gentle drunken poetic weiner-talk to get chicks and stuff.

That part was good.

Wisely, though, with our first track sucking so heinously, we decided to shelve the project.

Fast forward to a few years ago, and Deviant, who has been living in Chicago and whom I haven't seen for almost a decade, has restarted Naked and Shameless, with cousin Buck Naked replacing the dearly departed Jim. Buck can actually sing, and play. This is a good thing.

Why am I telling you all this? Besides the usual 'I'm so goddamn hip I can't see over my own pelvis' stuff, mostly 'cause I remembered that N&S have an mp3.com page with some fun songs on, which I've been listening to this evening as I get slowly plastered, and they're currently on tour, and will be playing one of our favorite Vancouver haunts this weekend, the Railway Club.

(The serendipitous thing here being that through completely random chaotic f--king weirdness, one of the owners of the Railway Club, Roger Trentenero, since deceased (murdered on his boat not long after I'd decamped, so to speak, at Playa Los Cocos, by hammer flung headward by his 16-year old Costa Rican girlfriend, is the story that I heard), was the owner of the first sailboat I crewed aboard in the Sea of Cortez, approximately midway, temporally speaking, between then and now...but that, as I find myself saying all too often, is a tale for another day.)

Drinking Song #16 is the one dedicated to me poor old Jim Naked. It's funny, but not my favorite. C'est la vie.

If you do go have a listen to any of their stuff, don't miss "Lawrence (Head of Lettuce)". A true story from our UBC days. Not even the names have been changed to protect the guilty. Rock'n'roll verité, man.

3:40 AM | 7 comments

A few times during your life, you may have run up against situations that tell you what kind of person you really are, what your response to disaster might be, what your mettle is. Some people have these experiences and it breaks them. For others, it's just an anecdote.

Greg and I had just gotten back from Isla Mujeres, off the Yucatan coast near Cancun. The sun was going down, and we were well lit up. We'd been on the island all afternoon, fixing up the light and sound systems, and as per the usual arrangement when we moonlighted, we'd been paid in food and booze. Given the quantity of beer we generally drank just to maintain our equilibrium and air of pleasant mañanaland befuddlement, it might have been cheaper for them to pay us cash, but this way it was off the books, and everyone was happy. We were looking forward to an evening at Dady Rock, on the strip, where we were customarily given open bar courtesy in return for helping out with sound mix and lighting there as well.

Greg and his Mexican girlfriend Bianca had a tumultuous relationship, to say the least. She was the very embodiment of the cliche of the fiery latina, and living with them as I did, I caught her wrath almost as often as Greg. She could be terrifying, and almost totally irrational when she lost her temper.

Bianca met us at the dock, and we wandered over to the main road into the Old City, intending, I think, to go find Greg's dealer. I wandered over into the bushes to have a pee while Greg and Bianca waited at the roadside to flag down a taxi. Life was astonishingly good at that moment - drunk, living in Paradise, I rolled my head back as I peed to look up at the wisps of clouds that were painted a rich red by the sunset, and breathed deeply of the clean ocean air to clear my head.

Then I heard the yelling.

"Ah, sh-t," thought I to myself, "they're at it again." I immediatedly started reworking my plans for the evening to be a solo flight. But as I wandered over (slowly, unkeen to put myself between the two combatants - I'd learned how ill-advised this could be before), I saw Greg on his back in some low bushes, and Bianca astride him, pummelling him, or at least attempting to. I stopped on the sidewalk about 10 metres up from them, and waited. No way I was getting involved once she started getting violent. I'd taken a heavy silver belt-buckle in the head last time I'd tried that.

A few seconds later, a police car pulled up, and the policia switched on their rollers. The cops got out, pulled Bianca off of Greg, and cuffed her. This wasn't good. As I walked up to the police car, they were putting the screeching and struggling Bianca in the back seat cage, and Greg was telling them in Spanish that he was her husband and he needed to come along. He looked at me as he got in to the backseat and shrugged. In Spanish, I asked the shotgun cop where they were taking my friends, and their answer was incomprehensible. I asked if I could come with them, as I had very little money on me and no idea where they were going.

This was my first mistake.

They took us to the police station on the main street of Old Cancun. Bianca was beside herself, still cuffed, doing everything but foaming at the mouth. Greg had entered into negotiations for the requisite bribes, trying to negotiate his way down. Everything seemed under control, so I asked what seemed to be the guy in charge, behind the desk, if I could go and get a pack of cigarettes. He replied in the positive, and I wandered off, confident that all was well. I bought a pack of Montana lights, and a can of Dos Equis, and wandered back to the cop shop, getting impatient to get back to the Strip. This was my second mistake.

As I walked in the door, it became clear that something significant had happened. Two cops were restraining Greg, three restraining Bianca, who if anything had cranked it up a notch into complete non compos mentis wildness, and one cop was sitting on the bench, looking green.

"What the f--k?" I asked Greg.
"She kicked one of the cops in the nuts!" said he.
"Oh, sh-t."
"Yep."

I offered some of the cops cigarettes, which they took. Then, after a couple minutes, the boss said something to the others, and they took the whole pack. And my wallet and passport, and my belt, and they led me back to a holding area. I was now, somehow, one of the detainees. f--k.

Bianca was still screaming, kicking, trying to bite anyone who came within range. Cuffed as she was, it took what appeared to be a great effort on the part of the two cops still restraining her to keep her in place. Greg had been put back in the holding area with me, and was now pleading for our release for any price, rather than just trying to negotiate the bribe down.

I was starting to sober up. And the cops had taken my smokes.

Some time later, Bianca was brought back from wherever she had been taken, and she looked bad. Blank eyes, slack mouth, bleach-blond mane hanging in front of her face. I don't know what they had done to her, but Greg bristled, and I started to get a little scared. I'd heard stories about the cops here, and how they dealt with gringos who weren't tourists. Greg had a temper of his own, and two black belts, and I could see things getting out of control very quickly.

The cops led us out to a patrol car, with a bigger, sturdier cage in the back, and refused to answer our questions about where we were being taken. The three of us were pushed roughly into the backseat, Bianca in the middle, and the doors slammed.

It was dark by now, but it was clear that we were being taken west, out of the city. In the couple of years I'd lived in Mexico, I had heard enough first-hand stories to know that it wasn't just in the movies that the cops in Mexico take people out into the back of beyond and beat them, or worse. And Bianca having kicked one of the senior cops square in the nuts did not bode well for our future. I started to get really scared, and when Bianca came out of her fugue state and started screaming curses and kicking at the cage between us and the two cops in the front seat, I started to, well, dissociate. Greg kept asking them in Spanish where they were taking us, forcing a calm tone on top of the growing panic in his voice.

No answer from the front seat, and we were leaving the last of the lights of Old Cancun behind. Greg murmured to me "When they open the doors, you go left, I'll go right. Run."

I didn't acknowledge what he'd said. Bianca did, and fell silent. The sheer terror and helplessness washed over me, and I was frozen. I wasn't sure that if the cops did stop and open the doors in the middle of nowhere, that I'd be able to move, let alone run. Like I said, sheer terror.

A few minutes later, there were lights beside the highway again, and we pulled into the parking lot of the federal prison. It looked like we weren't going to be dealt with extra-judicially after all. The overwhelming joy and relief I felt at the realization that I was going to be put in jail is a very vivid memory.

That happiness dissipated rather quickly. Mexican jails aren't very pleasant. But I wasn't there long, and that's a tale for another day, perhaps.

7:50 PM | 7 comments

There are almost certainly more refugees from Metafilter than there are people who actively participate, these days. The registered user count is up over 14000 at the moment, but if I recall correctly, Matt recently said that the server logs indicate there are only (only) a couple or three thousand registered users that hit the site on a regular basis. All indications, based on the numbers, at least, are that Metafilter continues to be a robust and roaring success. Matt has recently purchased some new hardware, and there are days and threads when I would defy you to find anything smarter or more amusing anywhere on the iNtARwEb.

But everywhere I turn, there is a constant keening lament about how bad the site has gotten, as compared to its long-past Glory Days. It is typical of these things, I suppose, but amuses me anyway that some disgruntloids insist that the golden age ended only recently (with a raft of calm, reasonable, and highly respected old guard users quietly calling it quits) while others point to the beginning of this year (when there were some high-profile, I'm-taking-my-ball-and-going-home departures). Still others glare and hurl imprecations (though mercifully stop short of screeching and flinging their poo) at the huge upsurge in registered users following September 11th last year, and yet other others pinpoint the date that everything went to sh-t as November 16, 2000, a day of infamy that was marked by the first appearance of a certain wonderchicken on the #006699 scene.

Michael Sippey, for instance, lamented in Swiftian style

almost a year ago!

A while back, I spent some time (way too much time, compulsively hitting the refresh button, wirehead monkey at the joyjuice hotbutton) hanging around with some folks who splintered off a long time ago from the grandpappy of Metafilter cult threads, 1142 (folks I miss, but in order to actually accomplish anything with my time must continue to hug from a distance - *waves*), and amongst all the other things that were talked about, they spent a lot of their time bemoaning how bad Metafilter had gotten. These were, are, some of the smartest, most creative people I've ever spent time with, virtually or otherwise. The few months that I spent a lot of time there were almost a year ago.

Since then, some of them have stopped appearing at all on Metafilter, although the occasional Special Guest Appearance leads me to believe that they are still watching, still disapproving, still shaking their heads in dismay at the decline of the Mothership.

Another gang of Meta-refugees with whom I hang out, the wacky kids at 9622.net, another MeFi splinter site that was birthed from a cult thread (9622 this time, duh), although much more concerned with having fun and being silly, also note occasionally, between flinging poo and screeching, that Bad Things are happening these days.

Recently, jpoulos (one of the admins of 9622.net) has been talking about his disenchantment in more direct terms in the comments attached to this post : Why Metafilter Sucks Ass. I find myself agreeing with him, with some reservations.

jpoulos doesn't participate at Metafilter anymore, and is missed.

Many many words have been spoken and typed about the Metafilter and how it has changed over the past year or two. Hell, I'm adding to the wordcount now, and I can't seem to stop myself. Nick Sweeney said a few months ago :

Nick doesn't participate at Metafilter anymore, and is missed.

For my part, I've written defenses both impassioned and tongue-in-cheek of the place in the past. I've said

and other things, more embarrassingly and openly in love with the place.

I personally think the exodus started when Jason Kottke posted this Metatalk thread not long after the massive influx of users after September 11th, which seemed to be a continuation of a real-world conversation that he and Matt had been having. Matt commented in the thread that he was tired of it all, and thinking about folding the tent. Much consternation ensued, and I honestly think that some people who might have stuck around and dug in their heels to try and make the place better and lead by example threw in the towel at this point.

There were other things - the rise in chattiness, the rise in incivility, the decline in collective intelligence, the increase in jokiness and pointless IRC-esque chatter (in which I admit my occasional participation) - most of which were probably as a result of the massive influx of new users.

Whatever the reason, even though there are many voices still participating that I enjoy hearing, lots of people with whom I enjoy interacting, I've got to agree for the first time in public that the Mothership is not what it once was.

What to do? This is the $64,000 Question, of course. I still enjoy the place a lot, and will continue to participate until Matt bans me permanently for conduct unbecoming a wonderchicken, but I am starting to understand a little better the complaints that I've ignored or argued against for so long. To some extent I wish that I'd paid them more heed a year ago.

(Should I mention my theory about the disenfranchisement of the A-List now? No, perhaps not. Not until my secret plans for World Domination have been hatched, my pretties. Not until then.)

It has been said, and truly, 'it's only a website'. Can you love a website? Is it internet-era pathological behavior to say 'I love that website'?

I dunno.

But some days it feels as if my love is turning into common street trash before my eyes, and no matter how well-documented my weaknesses for common street trash, that's just not the girl I fell in love with.

6:48 AM | 46 comments and 1 trackback

And now, as a special public service announcement, here's some stupid sh-t that was running through my brain this afternoon as I made some chicken cacciatore :

Since it seems we've been saddled with the monicker 'warbloggers' for the forseeable future, I thought we should open up some more niches for folks, you know, so they don't feel left out. You can have hours of fun, if you're so inclined, assigning your friends and neighbours to the right Tribe, a la the Harry Potter thing. If I had the energy, I'd make one of those stupid f--king quizzes. But I don't. So... onward!

I propose the foundation of the following new BlogTribes :

Any additions?

2:34 AM | 13 comments and 3 trackbacks.

What is happening in Cro-Magnon Territory and the Neanderthal territories?

Cro-Magnon forces moved into key Neanderthal towns in the Big River Caves at the end of cold season to try to halt a series of suicide attacks on its citizens.

There were many casualties in the military operation which also sparked a wave of protests in the Neanderthal world and led Cro-Magnon Territory's main ally, That Other Tribe, to call for killmaker withdrawals.

The action caused much hardship among Neanderthals and the militant rock-throwing campaign against Cro-Magnon Territory has continued since.

So how did the violence begin?

The Neanderthal intifada, or uprising, broke out at the end of The Long Cold Season When The Mammoths Died.

Analysts say the atmosphere at the time was ripe for an explosion. Neanderthal frustration that years of the peace process had failed to deliver their political aspirations was intensified by the failure of the Deep Cave summit in Hot Season.

Then Cro-Magnon hard-liner Arshon visited a site in Shared Hunting Grounds known to Neanderthal Shamen as the Noble Sanctuary and to Cro Magnon Ghost Talkers as Happy Killing Floor.

The Neanderthals viewed the visit as provocative because the hunting ground lies on territory captured by Cro-Magnons in the Grandfather war and is at the centre of the fierce dispute over the sovereignty of Shared Hunting Grounds. It ended in bloody clashes at the Shamen tents, which quickly spread through the occupied Neanderthal territories.

Correspondents say the visit was intended to underline the Cro Mag claim to the hunting ground and its holy sites.

What has happened to the peace process?

One of the weaknesses of the Father Times peace process was that it deliberately left the most difficult issues - the status of Shared Hunting Grounds, refugees and borders - until last, in the belief that this would make them easier to resolve.

These issues were finally discussed when the former Other Tribe Chief Clon made an all-out attempt to bring then Cro Mag Ghost Talker Ehurak and the Neanderthal leader Yasafat together at The Other Tribe's long house.

An agreement was in sight, but talks broke down over failure to agree on the future of Shared Hunting Grounds and - to a lesser extent - the fate of Neanderthal refugees.

Cro-Magnon leaders believed they had been generous to the Neanderthals, while Neanderthal negotiators rejected the proposals as inadequate.

The two sides came even closer to agreement when they met during The Long Cold Season When The Mammoths Died. But this, too, ended in failure.

There has been very little progress on the diplomatic front since Arshon took possession of the Leader Bone more than a year ago.

He has accused his predecessor of offering the Neanderthals unacceptable concessions and that all Cro-Magnon Territory got in return was violence.

One of the biggest obstacles to final status agreement is the issue of Cro Mag settlements, and Arshon has long been seen as a champion of the settlers' cause.

The Neanderthal Authority currently controls most of The Big River but less than 40% of the Big River Caves, in non-contiguous chunks that are dotted with Cro-Magnon settlements. The Neanderthals believe there can only be a purely Neanderthal state if the settlements are dismantled.

Why are both sides locked in this violence?

Arshon says there is no room for dialogue as long as violence continues. He said the Ehurak Government tried to negotiate under hails of rocks for several months but to no avail.

The Cro-Magnon leader has shown a resolutely tough paw in his dealings with the Neanderthals - but commentators say his policies have support among most Cro-Magnons.

They support the government's view that Cro-Magnon Territory is exercising its right to self-defence in the face of attacks from Neanderthal militants on Cro-Magnon civilians and defence forces.

The government accuses Yasafat of failing to contain militant groups like Big Stones Brotherhood and Neanderthal Ghost Eaters which carry out many of the attacks. But analysts are now increasingly arguing that Yasafat is in no position to control them.

The Neanderthals say militant attacks on Cro-Magnon Territory are inevitable as long as there is no satisfactory Neanderthal state.

The militant group BSB has pledged to escalate its activities and intensify the armed struggle against Cro-Magnon Territory. The group's popularity has soared recently, following the demise of the peace process and general sense of despair.

Could the peace process be revived?

Any common ground that appeared to exist at the Other Tribe's long house has been all but extinguished by more than a hundred thousand years of fighting.

The only thing that could make the two sides move is outside pressure.

There is hope that proposals put forward by more evolved branches of the species for peace and normalisation between Cro-Magnon Territory and its neanderthal neighbours could provide the much-needed momentum.

Under the terms of the proposal which was debated after The Long Cold Season When The Mammoths Died, Cro-Magnon Territory would withdraw from territory occupied in Grandfather Times and a Neanderthal state would be created with its capital in East Shared Hunting Grounds.

In return, Neanderthal nations would give Cro-Magnon Territory full diplomatic relations, including security guarantees, trade relations, animal skins, and some women.

But this plan will only be taken seriously by Arshon if it is actively promoted by the Other Tribes Big Chief Geush.

So far, the homo sapiens proposal has not led to any moves to halt the violence and revive the peace process.

[Search and replace liberties taken with this article.]